1989FourRunnin

First I apologize if I did not post this properly. Next Here are a few questions I have....

1. On the differential plugs (both check/fill and drain plugs) is there a special washer that has to be purchased to keep the drain plug from leaking every time the oil is changed? Per say a copper crush washer?

2. What weight of oil is proper to use in the front/rear differentials and the transfer case? Haynes Manual says 20w-50??? <--- Think thats a little retarded!??

3. When changing the oil should the check/fill plug be removed first then remove the drain plug?

4. What size socket (mm or SAE) are the plugs?

5. What is the air breather for the Differentials I read about in another post and where is it located?

6. Is driving it around the block enough to warm up the crap in the axle before the change enough? Does it have to be in 4h when I drive it?

Tried to keep it simple with each question but detailed enough to understand. My plug does leak in the FD drain plug so I figure would nail everything in one shot.

Thanks in advanced. <---- love those smilies

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Yes good idea to check you can get the fill plug out before draining gear oil also it helps it drain better

When I get a new to me Toyota it seems the plugs are always rounded from the wrong size wrench or what ever.

I always install new plugs with washers and never seize . The plugs from Toyota have magnets.I am not real sure I have seen copper and fiber washers as well as Nylon

24mm 6 point socket

It calls for 75w90 gear oil I run 85W140 only because I have a 55 gallon drum

It does not get all that cold here but on 10 Degree days with a brisk wind the gear boxes do need to warm up after sitting all day outside.

Before changing gear oil I take it a ride of a few miles with the hubs locked in. in 2wd Country blocks being bigger.

The breathers if still stock should be on the top of the housing I can`t recall what side without looking with these older trucks I have seen them extended as well as just broken off.

Hope that helps

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, breathers are on top of the housings. I don't remember exactly on the rear, but if you're sitting in front of your truck you'll see the breather on the top right of the front diff. It looks like a little cylinder, and if it's working right it'll jiggle kinda like a bobblehead doll when you tap it.

Definitely use a 6 point socket, if your drain or check bolts are at all frozen they're very easy to round with a 12 point.

1989FourRunnin

I was blessed because this past Sunday I spent most of the day on these little projects. I warmed up the 4x4 by taking a little excursion on a nice hilly dirt road at a nice pace (little fast for some lmao) then crawled under it got the 1/2" drive set out and the plugs came off with no problem. First I took off the check/fill plug and then the drain plug. BTW the drain plugs were already magnetic. Check/Fill ones were not. Now the washers on these things are indeed COPPER crush washers. Since there is no Yota Dealer around I made mine from copper washers already had. Thanks to the vertical drill press and Dad-in-law <--genious . Of course I removed the skid plate in front and replaced afterwards . The tranfer case kinda pi$$ed me off because I did not know it used Dexron II ATF in it! Scared the hell out of me because I thought the previous owner screwed up and did put the right stuff in. I was wrong lmao because ya dont use 80/90 in those ! No I did not put any 80/90 in it lol. Sooo...Success, I used 80/90w oil in the front and rear axles. So far so good. On with the rest of the SR5'er. Thanks for your help!!!
EDIT:
** I did find the breathers on front and back and will include pictures later. They were NOT IN good shape and I will replace them asap! I'll wire brush the S!@# out of them and spray them with some PB Blaster before I try to remove those!!