bone collector

ok after some more research... and many more questions.. whats the difference between a standalone system and a wideband controller???

these are what im wondering about
http://stores.ebay.com/streetrays/_i.html?_fsub=2993526

is this a tunable stand alone or it a fancy gauge setup?

bone collector

for further insight as to why i might need this. im seriously looking into meth injection for my 3vze. so im figuring that might be a tuning hassle to start with. im looking at my options

Toy3sgte

iTrader: (1)

You should just save up for a 5vz. Not only will power increase, everyone will be jealous that your Truck's reliability hasn't decreased!

You're talking about serious $$$ tuning with meth to properly use it to its full potential. Meth burns cooler so not only can you increase power by advancing timing, you can up boost. In this case the 3vz isn't turbo though.

The cheapest method I've ever seen utilizing meth without a full $tandalone computer was with the notoriously dangerous safc and a j&s safeguard to monitor knock.

Toy3sgte

iTrader: (1)

A name brand standalone is ~$1000. That's not including $ for tuning. That link you posted are all just fancy O2 sensors.

bone collector

thanks but no thanks, im keeping my 3vze. i know people are running meth on the 3vze so i was just curious about the standalone stuff. this is my first computer controlled fuel injected truck, ive had 4 carbed trucks before this one. so some of this stand alone, piggy back etc etc etc stuff is new to me.

abecedarian

If you're sticking with the stock ecu, a wideband sensor is not going to help unless you can tune the controller to output a modified signal to the ecu. The reason is this: the stock ecu uses the O2 sensor to sense whether the mixture is either rich or lean, not how far rich or lean. If the O2 says lean, the ecu enriches the mixture until the O2 says rich, then the ecu starts leaning the mixture resulting in the actual mixture fluctuating right around stoichiometric- approximately 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio.

If you can adjust the wideband controller to output a different value for 14.7:1 to the narrowband output / ecu input, you could conceivably fool the ecu into giving you a different a/f ratio.

For a stand-alone system, a few hundred or so could hook you up with megasquirt but it's not plug-and-play. You would have to build the fuel mapping, or find someone who's done it and will share their config. You wouldn't necessarily have to let it handle ignition, but it could be capable of that too. The newest ones also support auto-tune, where you set up a base tuning config then drive the vehicle and let the software update and tune the controller. FWIW, I'm planning on 'squirting my motorcycle- an 82 Honda CX500 turbo because sensors and things for that bike are getting expensive and/or impossible to find, and converting it all over to microsquirt is going to cost me about 600 total, plus my time.

bone collector

ty for the info. is megasquirt the best or preferred stand alone system?

abecedarian

I wouldn't say it's the best or preferred, but it is "open source", so to speak, meaning everything about it is released to the public for scrutiny, even the hardware side and circuit diagrams are publicized freely. Being open keeps some costs down.

Even the code the processor uses is open source, so you could modify how the system works at the core.

Toy3sgte

iTrader: (1)

If you eventually do travel down the tuning path I would not recommend fooling the ecu into running a higher a/f ratio. (like most piggy backs apexi avcr, hks vpc, etc. or altering 02 input)

The danger into fooling the ecu into running a leaner a/f ratio is you have no control of ecu timing. Richer a/f ratios can get away with more advanced timing, but leaner mixtures have less timing. For example:

If you altered the a/f ratio to your ecu to make you run leaner you would have to input a signal to the ecu so it thinks it is rich. Lets say you input an a/f of 10:1 so the actual a/f ratio goes to 13:1. The ecu will output a more advanced timing which correlates to the 10:1 a/f it thinks it is at. That timing may be too advanced for the lean mixture you are actually running.

You may get away with no problems daily driving, but under high load situations (WOT, uphills, or towing) There is a good chance detonation and piston damage can occur.

frm_808

iTrader: (1)

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...B_Shootout.pdf
Finally found a link to this...