tried4x2signN

OT.

I have to agree with that. Though I have found some times I want a thick agent to sit on something (I use the PB) and when I want a thin one, I use the WD-40.


If I could only choose 1, it'd be the WD40 though. I just wish they'd stop doing up their cans so it costs more.

Just a plain tip with a straw will suit me fine.

Me no likey the more expensive "smart straw". (Just how long you think I'll have the can?)

/OT

Zelephant

Thanks Bob, that's something to look at because my heater controls are "snug" to say the least!
Even if that can fix the heat problem though, I still want to install a Toyota dual stage t-stat as preventative maintenance at some point, and sooner rather than later. I'm replacing the fan clutch very soon, I'd like to do both at the same time and not have to think about overheating for a long time.

Turd Furgeson

I am a radiator repairman,so I see alot stuff like this. Sadly our flow machine has been broke for a couple months now.

barrel roll

I hate it when people give horrible advice.

What is so good about the stealership's thermostat that justifies the higher price?

Get a generic one. If it has one of those crazy brass plugs that are supposed to wiggle to let air by, cut it out. If there is no brass jiggle thing, drill a 1/8th inch hole in the thermostat.

This will ensure you get the air purged very quickly, and accomplish everything the dual thermostat does for much cheaper.

Pool Playen Bob

ever wonder why you never had to replace the thermostat when you purchased the truck 6-10 years ago. but now your replacing it every 2-3 years (if your lucky) its because aftermarket just doesn't hold up like oem does. not saying there thermostats are completely junk just saying thats the case on alot of items that junk out.

just food for thought.

Pool Playen Bob

i'd only do the stat until you had to. when they fail there designed to fail open so you don't over heat your engine. more like it takes forever for it to warm up. and if your heater controls are snug defiantly check into that valve on the fire wall.
pop your hood. and on the driver side kinda towards the middle you'll see a cable attached to your heater core hoses to a lever (your valve) have someone operate your lever in the cab and see if it moves the heater valve on the fire wall. it should pull it towards the fire wall for the heat to be on. that's where you want to get it to operating temp to see if you have even temp on both hoses. (good flow)

that little trap door that i was telling you about is located under the passenger side glove box. kinda in the kick panel towards the center console. you'll see it when you operate your heater control cable. it will be the only one you can see. if you follow it with your fingers you will find a plastic dowel that the cable wraps around. you can "help" close it by pulling your heater control lever towards the hot side and help "push" close the door. or simply like i did for winter just pull the cable down and off the dowel and close the door manually.

i will fix mine when summer hits. its literally -50 (no joke) wind chill here and has been for a few days. and the runner heats better then my 04 celica does. and i just cracked my windshield on that yesterday. hot blower heat on cold windsheild sounded like someone taking a base ball bat to my windshield from that tiny chip i used to have.

but i'd source your problem first before putting in parts. because if something doesn't act right then you really have that much more you have to look over. fix one thing at a time. usually the stuff thats broken.