Water-Proofin A 22re. Whats Involved?
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Water-Proofin A 22re. Whats Involved?
Well, I reckon I'm gonna be makin a snorkle here before too long. Need to know what all I need to do to make the engine water-proof?
So far I figure water can get in through the dipstick, and water would probably screw the distributor since it's not really sealed, but what besides that? There a thread somewheres about doin your own snorkle and water-proofin? I really aint fancy spendin $400 for a kit + and pay someone else to install it and never find out what they did...
So far I figure water can get in through the dipstick, and water would probably screw the distributor since it's not really sealed, but what besides that? There a thread somewheres about doin your own snorkle and water-proofin? I really aint fancy spendin $400 for a kit + and pay someone else to install it and never find out what they did...
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use die electric grease or whatever its called on all of your connections and around the sealing points of your distributor and anywhere water can get to electronics
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My thing is, if you're going through water high enough to need a snorkel, you're going to need to pipe the exhaust up higher too, also having a fuel injected motor, I worry about the ECU being behind the passenger kick panel. Not to mention all the little gizmos under the hood. I'd like to know what all you do to get her more waterproof.
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Well, I've already driven up to my headlights in water for short periods of time, and everythings been alright, but I have the strongest urge to put a 6' tall snorkel and put on my scuba gear and just go at it!
But yeah the ECU would defintely have to be relocated or somehow made waterproof...
But yeah the ECU would defintely have to be relocated or somehow made waterproof...
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I wonder if you couldn't weld and/or bolt in some sheet metal underneath. Make like a boat bottom. I don't know....haven't bothered to look underneath one to see if it was possible. But...???
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You talkin bout the entire truck or just the ecu thook? I wanna DRIVE threw the water, not float on it! Thats why the good lord invented the bass boat
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OH YEAH!!...the entire truck, mate! Toys a'hoy!...lol
Seriously, though..
If it was possible, why not? You wouldn't get stuck or risk hydrolock. Nor would you flood the cab. And actually, I'm just thinking about the engine compartment. And I suppose the drain holes and fuel pump access would have to be worked over, too.
Barring bass fishing, though, why wouldn't want to float on it? Seems like it would be a lot of fun to me.
Seriously, though..
If it was possible, why not? You wouldn't get stuck or risk hydrolock. Nor would you flood the cab. And actually, I'm just thinking about the engine compartment. And I suppose the drain holes and fuel pump access would have to be worked over, too.
Barring bass fishing, though, why wouldn't want to float on it? Seems like it would be a lot of fun to me.
Last edited by thook; 04-29-2007 at 06:42 AM.
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Meant to say touche (and the e with the little dash thingamajigger above it).
Touche [too-shey]
–interjection
1. Fencing. An expression used as an acknowledgement of a hit, called out by the fencer who is hit. A referee can call out touche (French: touch) to refer to a touch being called - for example, the French call for "no point" is "pas de touche" (French: lack of touch).
2. (an expression used for acknowledging a telling remark or rejoinder.)
[Origin: 1920–25; < F: lit., touched]
Ohhh. You just made me get dictionary.com on yer ass!
Touche [too-shey]
–interjection
1. Fencing. An expression used as an acknowledgement of a hit, called out by the fencer who is hit. A referee can call out touche (French: touch) to refer to a touch being called - for example, the French call for "no point" is "pas de touche" (French: lack of touch).
2. (an expression used for acknowledging a telling remark or rejoinder.)
[Origin: 1920–25; < F: lit., touched]
Ohhh. You just made me get dictionary.com on yer ass!
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I was just crossing thru high water today and thought bout waterproofing myself.
Well first, do not worry bout water getting into crankase. Engine while running maintain positive pressure there. Same with exhaust.
Ignition and intake that is different story. On E models computer is definitly to low. I was thinking of relocating but that sound like serious work. For now I wraped ECU in big zipper bag to keep splash out...
There is a pic of big ass fender liners I made from fender cover (protective cover for mechanics, aviable in parts stores). One fender cover makes two liners. Material is good quality and liners are doing good job reducing splash.
Well first, do not worry bout water getting into crankase. Engine while running maintain positive pressure there. Same with exhaust.
Ignition and intake that is different story. On E models computer is definitly to low. I was thinking of relocating but that sound like serious work. For now I wraped ECU in big zipper bag to keep splash out...
There is a pic of big ass fender liners I made from fender cover (protective cover for mechanics, aviable in parts stores). One fender cover makes two liners. Material is good quality and liners are doing good job reducing splash.
Last edited by EUROJulian; 04-29-2007 at 04:20 PM.
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Now thats a good quick fix. ECU doesn't need to breath does it? Can't see why it would, but ya never know... Maybe fab up a waterproof box, and rtv the hole where the wires comin out? Do you have to waterproof the maf, or is it sealed aready? Di-electric grease every single connection (is that for more to keep it corroded, or to keep it workin while submerged?)? What about where the air tube connects to the tb, just plain old hose clamps keep it waterproof, or do you gotta do somethin a little more exotic?
Sorry, just throwin those question out as they pop into my head.
Sorry, just throwin those question out as they pop into my head.
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Just to clarify. To make engine works under water (wholy submerged) that is a serious thing. It is better done with diesels, no worries with ignition but I think it can be accomplished with airplane piston engine ignition technology. I do not worry bout that.
I`m thinking water crossing just pass floor level and protecting from splash generated by whells and fan.
We have races down here in Florida in high water, they use coffe can to enclose carb, intake hose, thick like house AC duct, feeds thru windshield or firewall to passanger compartment. Grease is used everywhere to repel the water.
As for ECU, it doesnt have to brethe but in needs cooling to dissipate heat.
Last edited by EUROJulian; 04-29-2007 at 04:55 PM.
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Yup EJ is right. Plus think of maintenance if you truly seal all the water out you gotta unseal everything to work on it. NAPA sell a silicone grease that is the same as dielectric compound just a 3rd of the cost. Just take the connector apart and squirt some into each hole there and reasemble. Keeps corrosion down too. The ECU is a bayb computer so it needs to stay in the air so it can cool.
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Hmm... See cause I've already driven in water up to the headlights. Not much deeper and the engine'll be completely submerged right? Dunno... But yeah, I'm all about the cheaper/redneck solution. So aside from relocatin the ecu, how would yall keep it cool if it was in a sealed box? Cause wirein REALLY aint my forte...