AH64ID

I like the centerforce dual frictions, drive great and super holding power. 230ish on ebay... and I REALLY like their heavy flywheel, it really increases the inertia.

thook

What do you mean "super holding power"? And what "inertia" is increased?

Itoyota

yeah ... that doesn't add up. And for the clutch advice, thanks but no thanks, i just dont rock crawl ... i trail ride, power stand, and mud ... dont need the major $$ nor the major power

AH64ID

The clutch wont slip like an OEM one, or a cheap clutch... which provides longer clutch life and better drivability. Its really nice with the heavier/larger tires and when playing off the black top. The inertia that is increased is the rotational inertia. What it does is not bog the engine down as hard, it keep the engine spinning, so when you let the clutch out, or are driving at low rpm's the engine doesnt want to slow down as quick. It make the motor feel like it has more tq.

what is a power stand??? A good clutch is VERY important for trails and mud... the flywheel is even better for mud as your motor wont bog. Most of my wheeling is trail riding, and the good cluch/flywheel combo is SOO much better than the cheap or OEM ones I have had before.

Itoyota

never heard of a power stand! Power brake? burnout ... a really long one . Get the tires to squeel then quick lightly touch the brake while keeping the throttle open .... power stand ... back tires spin lots of smoke ... and the truck doesn't move. In any case ... im staying away from deep mud. the last run in i had with a muddy river @ the Gilbert OHV park in MN had me in mud water all the way to the headlights. Hydro lock ... it was a very good possibility but Mr. Toyoda must have helped me out. I made some mods to keep that from happening again ... 3 in body lift pulled the air box up a wee bit higher ... and threw some 31s on to get wee more lift. So ill stick to the tame streams.
Never had a problem with my stock clutch in 4x4 low ... just keep it engaged and play with the gas and brake.
QUICK TRICK to stopping a minor oil leak ... my rear main seal is brand new ... but leaked a bit ... so i let it leak down to half full according to the dipstick then added ATF to fill. The ATF expands the rubbers in the seals across the engine and sometimes stops minor leaks.

AH64ID

power brake is the term used around here... and I prefer not to do that, to hard on parts and tires

Itoyota

hard on parts , tires no doubt ... can't beat the smell of burning rubber ... especially from your finely tuned 4 banger spinning tires that could wrap around the modded V6 ford ranger sittin' next to ya @ the stoplight. In any case, got the valve adjustment screws today, ill be replacing them in an hour or so. keepin' my fingers crossed.

thook

Well, Aisin Seiko...whether 900lb, 1200lb, etc....is what I like to use. (900lb is the stock rating). But, if you like Beck Arnley, go for it. There's a foreign shop here that seems to think BA makes good stuff. I've just never used them.

My adj screws and spacers are in. Just gotta pick'em up, but can't until next week. Good luck on yours. I'm all ears when you're done.

Thanks AH64ID. I'll do some reading about the centerforce and that flywheel. The flywheel idea is attractive. I like the Marlin clutch. It's fookin' tough. But, when I'm pulling 1500lbs from a dead stop on an incline, the little 4cyl needs some help. I wonder....would a heavy flywheel like that help in such a situation? I sometimes wind up having to shift the T-case into low (hubs not locked) to just get going. Once on flat land, shift back into 2wd. It's kind of a pain.

Lysmachia

What oil weght are you running? back when I was an izuzu gal it was well known to fix valve tap using 0W oil. It fixed my problem and most of the othe isuzu's... Just a thought...

AH64ID

That is precisly when it helps

Odd that 0W helped out. I assume you mean a 0W-30. 0W-30 is a 5W-30 that has a colder pour point. And it has the 0W viscosity when cold, so once it gets warm it has the properties of a 30W....

Itoyota

well, the oil idea has been runnin through my head. It's summer, and im gonna go to a thicker oil once im through breakin' er in with the thin 5W-30. The adjuster screws got put in, and the tap is still there. It quiets down every now and then. Took the rig to the gilbert OHV park in MN. Had me a blast, damn those trucks can climb. I was going up grades steeper than a 4.0 Jeep wrangler could handle. Take that V6. I plan on trying the spacer ditty next. The link you posted awhile Back:
http://www.wheelingadventures.com/Tech/Fixs.htm

Ill try that ... they could possibly be worn. Will be posting some pics of the trip soon.

AH64ID

Unless you are burning insane amount of oil I would stay with the OEM spec of 5w-30, its what the oil pump and the rest of the motor are designed to run on.. just my .02

MMA_Alex

the oem spec is 10w-30 for 50+ degrees.

Itoyota

yeah, gonna fill it her with 10w-30 and add sum of that lucas oil stabilizer and see if it quiets down.

dcg9381

Do a google search on lucas oil stabilizer and see what happens at RPM.. :-)

AH64ID

I guess I can get below 50 year round here, so 5w-30 is the spec..

84sr5yoty

5-30 is too thin for the 22r series motor......period!!! Unless you're getting in the negatives (below 0) during wintertime, stay away from 5-30. These motors are excessively loose compared to others. The looser the motor, the thicker the oil is required.

I run 15-40 in mine and there is absolutely no problems starting, even when the mercury dips into the teens. Seriously, put at least 10-30 in there and you'll understand.

AH64ID

What makes you think that toyota is wrong?? 5w-30 has worked perfect for me for ~100K plus in both my 22RE's. I dont burn oil, pressure builds quick and stays.

MMA_Alex

not quite what i meant.

I'm trying this from memory, but here goes:

5w-30 is recommended for -whatever to +50 degrees.
10w-30 is recommended for +30 to + whatever degrees.

aka 5w-30 for the winter, and 10w-30 for the summer.

Probably not much of an issue since both act like a 30 weight when warm. but those are the factory recommendations listed in my manual (i think)

AH64ID

from what I have always been told is that you shouldn't change the viscosity on a motor once you pick one, unless it burns a crapload and you go thicker.