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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 01-18-2011, 03:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Throttle Body Will Not Close Completely

I noticed that my engine idles high and i believe it may be due to the throttle body not closing completely. Under the hood, instead of pulling the throttle open to rev, I can push the throttle closed when i add pressure, which then brings the revs down to a smooth idle where my engine should be at.
My question is how can i fix this?
Will I be able to reassemble the spring load or is there more involved in this procedure?
If I must purchase a new throttle body for my 3.0, can it be upgraded from a different vehicle, plug-n-play?

thanks for your time
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It's probably just dirty. You shouldn't need to disassemble it. You might not even need to remove it from the engine. Just get some carb cleaner and spray it down real good from the inside.

I can't tell you about the disassembly procedure, because there isn't one. You'll be sailing into uncharted waters if you decide to go that route.

As far as swapping it out, you'll need another identical unit from the same engine.

Good luck!
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I had this problem with my 22re. Turned out the dashpot was keeping it from closing all the way. I was trying to fix it, loosened the stud that makes contact with the dashpot, drove it, the stud fell out and now its working perfectly fine. Never have a problem with the DP not making contact with the throttle...

Could be dirty, too
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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To properly clean the throttle body, remove the throttle body to clean it, don`t get any carb cleaner in the TPS, that will ruin it and you will have to replace it. Also check the throttle cable to see if it moves freely.
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I suppose I should have mentioned that I recently did a water pump/timing belt/valve cover job. I removed the throttle body and dunked it in gasoline, a long with other various parts, to clean.

The idle fluctuations have been happening since before that job. The throttle body is clean.

I may have to look into the whole stud/dashpot/contact thing you were talking about as I do not know what those terms mean.

Also, after doing a bit of highway driving (~80 mph or so) my RPMs also stay way up around the 2k mark after exiting and idling at a light. Any ideas or do you think it still has to do with the TB?

thanks again for your input
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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$60 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2397260
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Funny, I just dealt with this same problem. I have removed and cleaned the heck out of the TB and it would still stick just above idle when warm. Mine would work fine cold but would stick when warm.

I took it off and had a local (Anchorage) carb shop look at it and they determined that everything was good except that the throttle plate was rubbing on one edge when it got hot. They removed the plate and reinstalled, carefully centering. They also, apparently (and at no charge) must have looked at the dashpot as it now works perfectly when it used to stick closed. My idle is now perfect and there has been no sticking after 500 miles. Total cost: $40 Well worth it.
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myyota View Post
To properly clean the throttle body, remove the throttle body to clean it, don`t get any carb cleaner in the TPS, that will ruin it and you will have to replace it. Also check the throttle cable to see if it moves freely.

Yeah, don't clean the TPS or dashpot with carb cleaner. I...um...left that part out.

Here's the FSM: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...93throttle.pdf

If you dunked all of it in gasoline, TPS and dashpot too, that was probably a bad idea.
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Looks tough. . .

thanks for everything. i'll let you know how it went.
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:21 AM
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