Tach Install (1989 Pickup 4x4, 22R/e)
#2
I now have had it through the first three gears (I drove it around my neighborhood so I didn't open it up)
1st - 2nd: 15mph (it can go higher, but it sounds like a squirrel in a vice grip.)
2nd - 3rd: 30mph
3rd - 4th: 40mph
...
Enjoy![/QUOTE]
thats how i normally shift, w/o a tach.
1st - 2nd: 15mph (it can go higher, but it sounds like a squirrel in a vice grip.)
2nd - 3rd: 30mph
3rd - 4th: 40mph
...
Enjoy![/QUOTE]
thats how i normally shift, w/o a tach.
#3
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Looks good there on the column
#5
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Alright, update!
I had the tach connected to the dimmer switch, but I noticed, after having driven it for a while, that my specific model of tach didn't have a dimmer light. The light was either on, or off. So I decided instead of having it hooked to the dimmer switch (as the dash lights had to be completely bright for the light to come on), I decided to rewire it, since I prefer to drive with the dash lights rather dim, but the tach light wouldn't come on. So I thought about adding a switch into the dash, but I decided to wire it to a headlight circuit instead. Since my truck is a DLX model, I don't have the schnazzy clock right by the ignition, but I do have the wires running to it, except it has a plastic cover. So I decided to use that, since the back light for the clock would be run to the headlights and parking lights. I probed it with a DVOM and sure enough, power with the parking lights on, power with the headlights on, no power with them off. So I wired it in, fused it, and put it back together.
I had the tach connected to the dimmer switch, but I noticed, after having driven it for a while, that my specific model of tach didn't have a dimmer light. The light was either on, or off. So I decided instead of having it hooked to the dimmer switch (as the dash lights had to be completely bright for the light to come on), I decided to rewire it, since I prefer to drive with the dash lights rather dim, but the tach light wouldn't come on. So I thought about adding a switch into the dash, but I decided to wire it to a headlight circuit instead. Since my truck is a DLX model, I don't have the schnazzy clock right by the ignition, but I do have the wires running to it, except it has a plastic cover. So I decided to use that, since the back light for the clock would be run to the headlights and parking lights. I probed it with a DVOM and sure enough, power with the parking lights on, power with the headlights on, no power with them off. So I wired it in, fused it, and put it back together.
Last edited by jcfb; 10-19-2007 at 08:06 PM.
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So what did you set your redline at, and at what rpms are you supposed to shift at with the 22r/re
i just bought the same kind off my friend for $15 and was having a hard time finding where the one wire went, distributor or ignitor coil, then i searched here, and found the exact same tach, and what better vehicle to see it on xD
i just bought the same kind off my friend for $15 and was having a hard time finding where the one wire went, distributor or ignitor coil, then i searched here, and found the exact same tach, and what better vehicle to see it on xD
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#9
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can anyone please tell me whats a good wire for our trucks to tap into for the 12v power. red wire?
my friend and i both have these tachs, and we need to find out which wire to tap into for power.
quick responce would be appreciated, were puttin them in tomorrow morning
my friend and i both have these tachs, and we need to find out which wire to tap into for power.
quick responce would be appreciated, were puttin them in tomorrow morning
#13
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#14
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Just run the green wire to the right plug thats capped off your igniter coil, then use the clock wiring.
if it still sticks or doenst function, take it back and get a new one man
if it still sticks or doenst function, take it back and get a new one man
#15
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Looks cleaner and is a whole lot easier if you just drop in an SR5 instrument cluster.
Gives you all gauges and the tach to boot.
Gives you all gauges and the tach to boot.
Last edited by farmerj; 02-22-2008 at 04:35 PM.
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And that was hard and difficult why?
Cost me $20 for the cluster, $37 for the sending unit.
Under $60 and I have a stock Clean looking Tach. And all I had to do was plug and play. Along with all the gauges to go with
#20
JCFB: Liked yours so much decided to put one in too. Couple o' questions...
1) For wiring the light wire into the clock lines, do you remember which color wires in the latter do which?
2) When you plugged the tach wire into the ECU, where did it go? (not obvious to lunkhead like me!)
Thanks
Photos perhaps when done...
1) For wiring the light wire into the clock lines, do you remember which color wires in the latter do which?
2) When you plugged the tach wire into the ECU, where did it go? (not obvious to lunkhead like me!)
Thanks
Photos perhaps when done...