Marc P

That is a sweet 2nd gen. I like everything you have done to it.

Lysmachia

Thanks I try. I wash her hair every morning and paint her nails about every two weeks. Oh and we do yoga together to keep the flex going.

Gotta love being a Lady wheeler!

NC-B17A

I don't think that there will be a problem with breakage with these. They are much stronger then oem.
It was good to meet you Brian thanks man these I can't wait to try them out

Man my oem bushings look like crap in those pics I will get some new poly ones this week.
Shelbys wifes name is Jennifer

Cebby

The ones that broke on me were aftermarket ones. They were from Firefyter-EMT. I'm not sure he even sells them anymore - I hope not. They broke on the street...

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

The OEM thickness of the endlink "body" is somewhere around 3/8" or 0.375", which looks awful tiny compared to these at 12mm or 0.4725" on the threaded portion and the stud in the sway bar. May be only 0.10" or so in diameter thickness difference, but the rod end portion definitely adds some beef.

We had to practically tear up the OEM ones to get them off and bent one pretty bad in the process. Bending one of these will take some effort.

Darrie

Here is my downunder solution for a rear swaybar disconnect:

My mount is similar to two shock absorber mounts, with top and bottom horizontal mounts that a connecting rod slides on & off. Spring loaded clip pins hold the rod from coming off. Once the bar is removed (about a 5 second process) everything still stays in its place and nothing needs locking down. Any engineer shop can make it & the spring clips are easily sourced.




Here's how to make it - You need

- two 3/4 eyed ends off an old shock absorber (complete with rubbers)
- about 40cm of steel rod the diameter that fits firmly into these rubber eyes (The mounts)
- a piece of flat steel plate and a steel bar to weld in place of the shock
- Machining equipment to mill down the rod to fit into the swaybar and pass through & be threaded
- tap & die to thread the rod to put a locking nut on
- two spring clips
- Drill & bit for the spring clip holes
Best option is to build the top & bottom mounts so that the shock you have slides on & off, then cut the shock ends off and build the joining linkbar.

The top mount Simply a flat piece of steel, with a welded shaft coming out of the centre, the diameter of the shaft needs to be the size where it just fits into the rubbers in the eyes on the removable rod we've built. I chose to drill into the chasis and put in heavier bolts for the plate to mount on. The shafts must be a firmish fit -you can lube the shaft later for getting it on & off easier. The shaft needs to be long enough to slide the rod eyes on, followed by a washer, then have a hole through the shaft for the pin that locks it together ..say 10mm exposed after the eye slides on .


The bottom mount On a section of rod about 10cm long machine down one end of the rod to match the size & length of the ball joint threaded end so that it fits neatly into the swaybar and out the other side. Thread the exposed end facing the centre of the car so we can use the nut off the ball joint to lock it on. Again , when the car is on a flat surface install the bar, add a big washer and mark a spot to drill the pin holes. Leave about 10mm after each pin hole to the end of the shaft and cut off the excess. Round the shaft ends for smoother getting on and off the bar.

(Note : experiment before drilling the pin holes the best direction that you can reach a pin and pull it out. Its not a problem in mine with a lift kit but on a standard vehicle you will be reaching around the tyre. Preferably the hole should face towards an area where there in the most room that when you pull you wont smack your hands against something. The pins come out easily but the more space the better . The spring pin I have are like a pin with a round spring ring on it. After pushing the pin in the hole the ring spring loads back over the bolt so it can't come out. real trick !.



The link bar Remove the upper sway bar mount from the chasis (two bolts) and the lower ball joint going into the swaybar. Measure from the middle of the two bolt holes in the upper chassis to the middle of the swaybar hole where the ball joint joined it. Thats the distance we need between the centre of the eyes for our new disconnecting rod. Go to the wreckers and pick up any shock absorber with solid eyes both ends and good rubber. Cut both eyes off and weld in place of the shock tube a solid steel bar, the length being that needed so the centre of the two eyes match what we just measured. Eyes must be welded identical direction top and bottom of course as you want to slide it on and off.




To disconnect just flip the ring over & pull the pins out top & bottom. Grab the washers, slide the connecting rod out, & throw it under your seat. Takes about 5 seconds and both points are pretty easy to reach. To put the rod back wait till you are on even ground, wipe the shafts & slide back the rod, washers on & repin it . You can lift the body up and down with your back in the wheelwell if the car is on slightly uneven ground, but level is best. Real easy.