Stuck In 4Lo and some other questions
09-03-2008, 09:49 AM
#1
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Stuck In 4Lo and some other questions
Soooo, Im finally home after a weeks long road trip up the coast of Cali, started in LA, stopped halfway then went to Sanfranciso to see some Fam, then made my way back down. On the last day of the trip my friend and i decided to go rip threw the Sand Dunes at Pismo Beach (awesome everyone should go drive on the Ocean). I beat my yota to death in there and got it stuck in 4LO. Drove out of there with its tale between its legs for about 20 miles to get back to a good place to tow it home as i tried everything to get it out, but just wouldnt budge. So 720 dollars later i got it to my friends house. Today im taking it to TLC in Van Nuys to get it fixed as i have to leave town for a month tomorrow. Heres a few questions i have and yes i searched and have read every thread i can find on the matters. OK so i just put in an HD clutch but my syncros on 1st and 2nd gear are worn badly first gear pops out from time to time and 2nd is just hard to get into alot. Should I have the Trans rebuilt sense im dropping the transfer case? Should i just have the transfercase rebuilt stock? Is there any other tricks to get it unstuck from 4lo that i didnt try? i tried reverse, moving the wheels etc...
Im going to Emu out the suspension this month. Not sure about lifting it or not. Im content with a stock look and relibility. Im noticing the more i do the more stuff breaks. Let me know your thoughts on these matters. Im trying to put some pics up but cant figure out how to shrink them enuff.
1990 4runner
ARB Front Bumper- Warn M8 winch
Piaa lights-
New Stock IFS axles (what a waist of money this was)
New HD clutch-
31x10.5 BFG ATA
other new stuff to make it mechanically sound
293,000 miles and counting- whooo whooooo
5 speed manual
Im going to Emu out the suspension this month. Not sure about lifting it or not. Im content with a stock look and relibility. Im noticing the more i do the more stuff breaks. Let me know your thoughts on these matters. Im trying to put some pics up but cant figure out how to shrink them enuff.
1990 4runner
ARB Front Bumper- Warn M8 winch
Piaa lights-
New Stock IFS axles (what a waist of money this was)
New HD clutch-
31x10.5 BFG ATA
other new stuff to make it mechanically sound
293,000 miles and counting- whooo whooooo
5 speed manual
Last edited by joebattle1; 09-03-2008 at 10:36 AM.
09-03-2008, 03:27 PM
#2
IFS at stock height is most reliable. Leave the front as is. OME med duty coils keep the stock look and are good. Replace all 4 shocks, both rear coils and leave as that.
Did you try reversing to get the T case out of 4 low? Maybe getting up some speed and then downshifting. Sometimes the driveline binds up and makes it difficult to take out of 4 low.
Did you try reversing to get the T case out of 4 low? Maybe getting up some speed and then downshifting. Sometimes the driveline binds up and makes it difficult to take out of 4 low.
09-03-2008, 03:39 PM
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and always get out of lo before you hit solid ground.
It's normal for the front tires to wear faster than the rears (if you're not peelin out all the time) and that little difference between the front and rear tire circumference can bind the transfer case and make it hard to get out of lo.
As Matt16 said, sometimes driving in reverse a short distance can unload the bind in the xfer case enough to let you shift out. It may take some trial and error- driving back and forth different distances until you get to the right spot.... I found that out in an F250 work truck I used to drive just moments before the tow truck arrived to pick me up.
As for the trans- if you're getting the xfer case worked on, this would be a good time to get the trans fixed. Just make sure they don't bill you for too much- taking the trans out requires removing the xfer case too, so the cost figures they use should NOT charge you as if it's two different jobs.
Case in point: I had an 84 Chrysler Laser that a mechanic was doing the wheel bearings on. The CV shaft needed the outer boot replaced and they wanted to charge me for removing the steering knuckle to do the bearing, and then charge me AGAIN for removing the steering knuckle to get the CV shaft out. I laughed and said the knuckle is already out, then walked up to the car and pulled the CV shaft out and handed it to them and asked them to replace the boot, and when it was done, I put the shaft back into the trans. Service manager was pissed at me for crossing that stupid yellow line on the floor but didn't charge me.
It's normal for the front tires to wear faster than the rears (if you're not peelin out all the time) and that little difference between the front and rear tire circumference can bind the transfer case and make it hard to get out of lo.
As Matt16 said, sometimes driving in reverse a short distance can unload the bind in the xfer case enough to let you shift out. It may take some trial and error- driving back and forth different distances until you get to the right spot.... I found that out in an F250 work truck I used to drive just moments before the tow truck arrived to pick me up.
As for the trans- if you're getting the xfer case worked on, this would be a good time to get the trans fixed. Just make sure they don't bill you for too much- taking the trans out requires removing the xfer case too, so the cost figures they use should NOT charge you as if it's two different jobs.
Case in point: I had an 84 Chrysler Laser that a mechanic was doing the wheel bearings on. The CV shaft needed the outer boot replaced and they wanted to charge me for removing the steering knuckle to do the bearing, and then charge me AGAIN for removing the steering knuckle to get the CV shaft out. I laughed and said the knuckle is already out, then walked up to the car and pulled the CV shaft out and handed it to them and asked them to replace the boot, and when it was done, I put the shaft back into the trans. Service manager was pissed at me for crossing that stupid yellow line on the floor but didn't charge me.
09-03-2008, 07:01 PM
#5
and always get out of lo before you hit solid ground.
It's normal for the front tires to wear faster than the rears (if you're not peelin out all the time) and that little difference between the front and rear tire circumference can bind the transfer case and make it hard to get out of lo.
As Matt16 said, sometimes driving in reverse a short distance can unload the bind in the xfer case enough to let you shift out. It may take some trial and error- driving back and forth different distances until you get to the right spot.... I found that out in an F250 work truck I used to drive just moments before the tow truck arrived to pick me up.
As for the trans- if you're getting the xfer case worked on, this would be a good time to get the trans fixed. Just make sure they don't bill you for too much- taking the trans out requires removing the xfer case too, so the cost figures they use should NOT charge you as if it's two different jobs.
Case in point: I had an 84 Chrysler Laser that a mechanic was doing the wheel bearings on. The CV shaft needed the outer boot replaced and they wanted to charge me for removing the steering knuckle to do the bearing, and then charge me AGAIN for removing the steering knuckle to get the CV shaft out. I laughed and said the knuckle is already out, then walked up to the car and pulled the CV shaft out and handed it to them and asked them to replace the boot, and when it was done, I put the shaft back into the trans. Service manager was pissed at me for crossing that stupid yellow line on the floor but didn't charge me.
It's normal for the front tires to wear faster than the rears (if you're not peelin out all the time) and that little difference between the front and rear tire circumference can bind the transfer case and make it hard to get out of lo.
As Matt16 said, sometimes driving in reverse a short distance can unload the bind in the xfer case enough to let you shift out. It may take some trial and error- driving back and forth different distances until you get to the right spot.... I found that out in an F250 work truck I used to drive just moments before the tow truck arrived to pick me up.
As for the trans- if you're getting the xfer case worked on, this would be a good time to get the trans fixed. Just make sure they don't bill you for too much- taking the trans out requires removing the xfer case too, so the cost figures they use should NOT charge you as if it's two different jobs.
Case in point: I had an 84 Chrysler Laser that a mechanic was doing the wheel bearings on. The CV shaft needed the outer boot replaced and they wanted to charge me for removing the steering knuckle to do the bearing, and then charge me AGAIN for removing the steering knuckle to get the CV shaft out. I laughed and said the knuckle is already out, then walked up to the car and pulled the CV shaft out and handed it to them and asked them to replace the boot, and when it was done, I put the shaft back into the trans. Service manager was pissed at me for crossing that stupid yellow line on the floor but didn't charge me.
09-03-2008, 07:31 PM
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Yeah, I hate them!
That same shop sold my mother a 'lifetime' brake pad replacement (same 84 Laser, but before Mom gave it to me), and then installed organic pads on the Laser, which called for semi-met from the factory.
So needless to say, the car was back in for brakes in 8000, 14000 and 22000 miles and needed another set of rotors and calipers at each stop.
Oddly, the rear's didn't need any service at all. Hmm.....
I bitched and complained to the CORPORATE HQ after the THIRD set of pads and rotors were installed and got them to admit they were installing sub-standard parts knowing that the rotors would need replaced after the ORGANIC pads wore out, and since the rotors weren't covered under the 'lifetime' policy we had to pay for them. So they would basically install substandard parts knowing they wouldn't last and would subsequently eat up the rotors, but the rotors and calipers weren't covered under the lifetime warranty so they were making the money covering the 'warranty' on the backside.
When they ante'd up after my rant and put semi-mets on the brakes, since I pointed out to them that their contract required them to install OEM quality parts (and organic brake pads were not 'OEM quality' since the car called for semi-met), the car went at least 60,000 on the brakes after that. ( I say 'at least' because I sold the car.)
Unfortunately, I couldn't get any compensation for the other work done, other than free lifetime tune ups.
That same shop sold my mother a 'lifetime' brake pad replacement (same 84 Laser, but before Mom gave it to me), and then installed organic pads on the Laser, which called for semi-met from the factory.
So needless to say, the car was back in for brakes in 8000, 14000 and 22000 miles and needed another set of rotors and calipers at each stop.
Oddly, the rear's didn't need any service at all. Hmm.....
I bitched and complained to the CORPORATE HQ after the THIRD set of pads and rotors were installed and got them to admit they were installing sub-standard parts knowing that the rotors would need replaced after the ORGANIC pads wore out, and since the rotors weren't covered under the 'lifetime' policy we had to pay for them. So they would basically install substandard parts knowing they wouldn't last and would subsequently eat up the rotors, but the rotors and calipers weren't covered under the lifetime warranty so they were making the money covering the 'warranty' on the backside.
When they ante'd up after my rant and put semi-mets on the brakes, since I pointed out to them that their contract required them to install OEM quality parts (and organic brake pads were not 'OEM quality' since the car called for semi-met), the car went at least 60,000 on the brakes after that. ( I say 'at least' because I sold the car.)
Unfortunately, I couldn't get any compensation for the other work done, other than free lifetime tune ups.
Last edited by abecedarian; 09-03-2008 at 07:34 PM.
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