*SNAP* Rear Axle sheared off at 45mph and tire went for a ride! - Page 4

80W90 · 04-16-2007, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brenjen

If that is what you folks are referring to; that's not the C-clip that is being talked about (by me at least). That is a spring steel circlip or snap ring if you prefer. The C-clips I & others are talking about are not spring steel & do not require snap ring pliers to remove. I'm sure that's where the confusion is coming from, the Toyota has snap ring retainers, not C-clips. The C-clips we are referring to are named that because they look like a "C" it's not short for circlip.

Edit: thanks for the picture Gonzo!

well thanks for the clarification. but since thats the only c clip on this axle, thats what it is. its a clip. its c shape. its a c clip.

lets not bring up what a dana has on it, cause we arent discussing a dana.

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**Lysmachia** · 04-16-2007, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 80W90

its not a matter of tippy is a POS, and need to be upgraded, its a matter of a technician not installing a part correctly.

no need to go to floaters.

Yeah Troy and I were discussing this today. If this had happened on the trail - OMG I have no idea what we would have done. It is not like you can get the axle back in there (We sorta tried in order to get it up on the flat bed). But seriously how often does a failure like this happen? Is it really more important for hard wheelers (Let me rephrase - those of us who can be hard on our trucks while wheeling)

So yeah the FF option is being considered for sure!

**waskillywabbit** · 04-17-2007, 04:58 AM

I think by the time you add in cost and additional cost...the full floater is very economically feasible...I love the full floater. If you have any questions on it, let me know as I did mine recently and still actually remember it.

SteveO · 04-17-2007, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 80W90

no need to go to floaters.

I disagree with this.

As I stated earlier, the stock bearings are not designed for the side loading, wheelers place on these. They are designed to carry the vehicle down the road, with the weight of the vehicle square on the tread, thus placeing no sideloading of the bearings. When we wheel the pee out of our rigs, and constantly put a large side load on these bearings, they will eventually wear out. When my bearings wore out, I found it was 50 bucks a bearing for replacement, not including the labor. Givin Molly's ability to drive her rig, and where that rig goes, I would say there is no other option than to go Full Floater. Full Floater will allow her to service the bearings with parts from the local autoparts store, and much cheaper as well. Full Floater setups use tapered bearings, and places the load squarely 100% on two bearings. The Axle does not share the load. If an axle is busted, you pull it out, lock the diff, and continue on.

Full Floater, its the only solution to bearings when the wheeling gets extreme.

SteveO · 04-17-2007, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 80W90

looks like a snap ring, as others have stated. I think the common C-clip train of thought goes with the domestic axles and c-clips that hold the axle into the center diff.

Brenjen · 04-17-2007, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drew303

sorry for referring to it as a C-clip =/ i guess we were all the on the same page except for those that are familiar with different axles =p

Im happy you're all ok to, that would be scary!

Maybe im confused, whats a 3rd gen 4runner? Isnt a 93 called a 2nd gen? When did they put ABS on toyotas?

Yeah obviously some of us were in the process of learning something new. I considered it a discussion, not an argument so no need for sorrys, if anything THANK YOU for helping to get it clarified.

Brenjen · 04-17-2007, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 80W90

well thanks for the clarification. but since thats the only c clip on this axle, thats what it is. its a clip. its c shape. its a c clip.

lets not bring up what a dana has on it, cause we arent discussing a dana.

Yes Sir, Sorry Sir. May I, with your permission of course, leave the discussion a little wiser now?

LOL

**Lysmachia** · 04-17-2007, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveO

I disagree with this.

As I stated earlier, the stock bearings are not designed for the side loading, wheelers place on these. They are designed to carry the vehicle down the road, with the weight of the vehicle square on the tread, thus placeing no sideloading of the bearings. When we wheel the pee out of our rigs, and constantly put a large side load on these bearings, they will eventually wear out. When my bearings wore out, I found it was 50 bucks a bearing for replacement, not including the labor. Givin Molly's ability to drive her rig, and where that rig goes, I would say there is no other option than to go Full Floater. Full Floater will allow her to service the bearings with parts from the local autoparts store, and much cheaper as well. Full Floater setups use tapered bearings, and places the load squarely 100% on two bearings. The Axle does not share the load. If an axle is busted, you pull it out, lock the diff, and continue on.

Full Floater, its the only solution to bearings when the wheeling gets extreme.

Yeah She isn't called Tippy just because she feels that way - but also because I put her that way on purpose... I would imagine this is the kind of stress I consistantly put on her that helped that bearing fail....

Ringmaster · 04-17-2007, 09:28 AM

Glad your both OK.

Your'e very fortunate in it letting go where it did.

The "Clown Parade" of sales sharks weren't out there "Wheeling and Dealing" the second Tippy came to a stop.

The "Clown Parade" of sales sharks where I'm from would be on that instantly.

Fullfloater time Molly.

tc · 04-17-2007, 10:46 AM

It was Sunday - the Clown Parade was at the circus! LOL

Wabbit - with the FF setup, the bearing does not go back in the housing at all, right - or is it there to support the axle shaft? I would assume the seals have to go back in (and work). Just wondering what kind of housing damage would be overcome with the FF setup.

Plus the FF gives you manual hubs on the back, so you could unlock them and do front digs! :woot:
Disc brakes would be nice too...

MudHippy · 04-17-2007, 11:46 AM

I checked around to see what years have FF axles on Land Cruisers and haven't concluded much yet. Alot of them do. It may be an easy swap, and you could probably use the same 3rd member in a LC axle if you wanted to keep the diff. gears. Here's a pic I found of one with what looks to be locking rear hubs.

These guys have new ones, w/o locking hubs. There's a swap needed to do those.

http://www.man-a-fre.com/feature_items/fullfloater.htm

80W90 · 04-17-2007, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveO

I disagree with this.

As I stated earlier, the stock bearings are not designed for the side loading, wheelers place on these. They are designed to carry the vehicle down the road, with the weight of the vehicle square on the tread, thus placeing no sideloading of the bearings. When we wheel the pee out of our rigs, and constantly put a large side load on these bearings, they will eventually wear out. When my bearings wore out, I found it was 50 bucks a bearing for replacement, not including the labor. Givin Molly's ability to drive her rig, and where that rig goes, I would say there is no other option than to go Full Floater. Full Floater will allow her to service the bearings with parts from the local autoparts store, and much cheaper as well. Full Floater setups use tapered bearings, and places the load squarely 100% on two bearings. The Axle does not share the load. If an axle is busted, you pull it out, lock the diff, and continue on.

Full Floater, its the only solution to bearings when the wheeling gets extreme.

so with the FF conversion, is the stock axle tube still used?
i imagine the four bolts are removed and the full floating bearing housing is bolted in, along with some longer axle shafts. right? wheres a guy buy this stuff?
can the stock backing plate be re used? and i imagine the drums have to be replaced with deeper ones. right?

80W90 · 04-17-2007, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lysmachia

Yeah Troy and I were discussing this today. If this had happened on the trail - OMG I have no idea what we would have done. It is not like you can get the axle back in there (We sorta tried in order to get it up on the flat bed). But seriously how often does a failure like this happen? Is it really more important for hard wheelers (Let me rephrase - those of us who can be hard on our trucks while wheeling)

So yeah the FF option is being considered for sure!

how often?
i have only seen this happen once, in my 12 years of wheeling.
last year, when i had a shop, my technician didnt install the sleeve down far enuff, and consiquintly, the same thing happened. it happened about two months later. the customer was so pissed. i gave him back all his money. and i gave him a detroit locker for free, just to make him happy, and he was. infact he brought me a lot more business after that.

Guardian_Saint · 04-18-2007, 03:20 AM

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/b...fd012e0fc7.htm

Same situation as you describe it.

SteveO · 04-18-2007, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 80W90

so with the FF conversion, is the stock axle tube still used?
i imagine the four bolts are removed and the full floating bearing housing is bolted in, along with some longer axle shafts. right? wheres a guy buy this stuff?
can the stock backing plate be re used? and i imagine the drums have to be replaced with deeper ones. right?

Yup, you use the stock axle, but replace everything outside of the axle tube.

Here is an image from FROR of their Full Floater chunk:

Clicky on the picture for the information on their Full Floater conversion:

I have this setup on my '99 and I absolutely love it. Its reliable, strong, redundant and provides better stopping with rear disc brakes.

Pest · 04-18-2007, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

I think by the time you add in cost and additional cost...the full floater is very economically feasible...I love the full floater. If you have any questions on it, let me know as I did mine recently and still actually remember it.

Did you get a kit from FROR?

SteveO · 04-18-2007, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guardian_Saint

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/b...fd012e0fc7.htm

Same situation as you describe it.

Man, those guys must have known people were laughing at their car and what happened......

**Lysmachia** · 04-18-2007, 08:34 PM

So sadly I can't afford full floater right now. I have to already replace the rear axle housing and one shaft and bearing. Hoping the 3rd member and guts are ok. I will be grinding out my rear suspention the next two days - and we will be remounting with chevy leaf springs since my rear coil setup is flawed. It is too soft - and really needs a good link system to solve it. Since I can't afford that I am going to chevy leafs since that will cost the same to do that or order replacement pro comp lift parts because I have to replace all the lift parts that are gonna be pulled off on the old axle housing. (They had been welded and gusseted). Then when I get enough money I can move to alcans orbit eyes easily. It is just not worth it to pay the same amount to go to the same suspention that is too soft. Yeah I am worried the chevy's wont be as flexy but it is a risk I am willing to take because of the problems my soft suspention has given me (lack of climbing power and the tippiness)

I seriously have my work cut out for me.... but since I am cutting everything out it will be a lot cheaper - but not cheap enough to include the full float.

now. I will of course be checking the other bearing on the other hub.

91 4Runner · 04-20-2007, 03:14 AM

Iff you have to relace the axle housing anyway, why not try and get an axle housing from a pickup... Way easier than grinding off the coil buckets, and welding spring perches on the axle (save you some time) Just my $0.02

**Lysmachia** · 04-20-2007, 08:57 PM

Yeah I have an axle housing already set up with really good leaf mounts - we just hope it will fit the 2.5 inch chevy leafs (vs the 2.25" stock toyota ones)

Here is what I've gotten done so far.

MMMmmm Sparkly!

Tippy all stripped down today... (Took the front tires off so they don't get stolen.. LOL oh and tac welded the winch on too.

Here is my old rear axle:

Look at how bent is is. Not sure if it was that bent before she lost the tire - but it might have been which would have weakened the bearing.

Any way I have a little more cutting to do. Trying to get all the plating out where the coil cups are - I cut a hard brake line. (It was all tucked up near the gas tank and I moved it - AND didn't use the sawzall so I wouldn't cut it - and I still hit it with the grinder... GRR)

So I'll finish that up this weekend - then go in on monday and sand down the rusty chebby's and paint them up all purty. (My new axle too).

Just Learning · 04-20-2007, 11:07 PM

question--if someone gets a ff and could you het drum brakes to maybe help keep cost down, because i got a little scared about mine, but after seeing mollys tippy on two wheels lol ahhh maybe i wont worry to much my truck dont see stuff like that

**Lysmachia** · 04-20-2007, 11:17 PM

Seriously - I Really think the fear factor should only be high in those of us that do A LOT of side loading on our wheels (meaning we spend way too much time being tippy) LOL So Just Learning - you shuld be fine (unless you dig tippy as much as I do). There are a lot of other mods I would recomend WAY before a FF - in terms of safetey. In talking to the guys at the rock crawling shop where I am doing all of this They have never in their entire wheeling career seen this happen or have a customer bring them one. I did talk to one guy - where his Bronco did it. So it is pretty rare. But it is dangerous enough that if you do wheel pretty hard a FF is a good thing to have (Thus the reason I will at some point do it).

You have to have the disc breaks - because you have to have a selectable hub or drive flange in the middle of the tire and drum brakes don't allow for that.

Hope that helps!

mt_goat · 04-21-2007, 05:28 AM

Hmmmm...I wonder if a whole Land Cruiser axle would work since they are FF already and you need a whole new axle.

Just Learning · 04-21-2007, 11:01 PM

ya molly it does after posting i was thinking that you would have to have dics breaks and ya ill woek on other mods and wont worry , but damn looking at your pics, wow thats something thank god no one got hurt that really could have turned out bad and good job to the driver for keeping control

drew303 · 04-21-2007, 11:13 PM

how the heck do you bend an axle housing like that?!?!

if that was how it was BEFORE the axle came off thats probably the cause of the whole accident.

04-17-2007, 04:58 AM	#78 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,463	I think by the time you add in cost and additional cost...the full floater is very economically feasible...I love the full floater. If you have any questions on it, let me know as I did mine recently and still actually remember it. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it.

04-17-2007, 09:28 AM	#84 (permalink)
Ringmaster Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Spokane Valley Washington Posts: 814	Glad your both OK. Your'e very fortunate in it letting go where it did. The "Clown Parade" of sales sharks weren't out there "Wheeling and Dealing" the second Tippy came to a stop. The "Clown Parade" of sales sharks where I'm from would be on that instantly. Fullfloater time Molly. __________________ 99 4Runner, 3.4, 5 spd., Manually shifted E-Locker, 4:30 gears, 285/75/16 MTR's, Airbox mod through the bottom of the inner fender.

04-17-2007, 10:46 AM	#85 (permalink)
tc Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 8,327	It was Sunday - the Clown Parade was at the circus! LOL Wabbit - with the FF setup, the bearing does not go back in the housing at all, right - or is it there to support the axle shaft? I would assume the seals have to go back in (and work). Just wondering what kind of housing damage would be overcome with the FF setup. Plus the FF gives you manual hubs on the back, so you could unlock them and do front digs! :woot: Disc brakes would be nice too... __________________ Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action

04-17-2007, 11:46 AM	#86 (permalink)
MudHippy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: The Realm Of Fecal Cohesion Posts: 2,014	I checked around to see what years have FF axles on Land Cruisers and haven't concluded much yet. Alot of them do. It may be an easy swap, and you could probably use the same 3rd member in a LC axle if you wanted to keep the diff. gears. Here's a pic I found of one with what looks to be locking rear hubs. These guys have new ones, w/o locking hubs. There's a swap needed to do those. http://www.man-a-fre.com/feature_items/fullfloater.htm __________________ Sonoran Steel Early IFS Truss Your IFS is SPINELESS without it SonoranSteel.com I'm Cuckoo For YOTA Trucks! Last edited by MudHippy; 04-18-2007 at 09:15 PM.

04-20-2007, 03:14 AM	#94 (permalink)
91 4Runner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ameliasburgh, On. Ca. Posts: 620	Iff you have to relace the axle housing anyway, why not try and get an axle housing from a pickup... Way easier than grinding off the coil buckets, and welding spring perches on the axle (save you some time) Just my $0.02 __________________ Mostly Stock 90 4Runner SR5 V6 Auto w/ 33" Durango MT's (bent lower valance removed), bush bar w/ 55w Baja Offroad Lights, Custom fit 1st. gen rollbar (used to mount Hi-Lift and fire extinguisher), extended diff breathers, (Comming soon rear spool and 2" body lift..) My very slow buildup on Sontt.com - currently building. http://www.sontt.com/forum/viewtopic...&t=109&start=0

04-20-2007, 11:07 PM	#96 (permalink)
Just Learning Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Evans Colorado Posts: 679	question--if someone gets a ff and could you het drum brakes to maybe help keep cost down, because i got a little scared about mine, but after seeing mollys tippy on two wheels lol ahhh maybe i wont worry to much my truck dont see stuff like that

04-21-2007, 05:28 AM	#98 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,863	Hmmmm...I wonder if a whole Land Cruiser axle would work since they are FF already and you need a whole new axle. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

04-21-2007, 11:01 PM	#99 (permalink)
Just Learning Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Evans Colorado Posts: 679	ya molly it does after posting i was thinking that you would have to have dics breaks and ya ill woek on other mods and wont worry , but damn looking at your pics, wow thats something thank god no one got hurt that really could have turned out bad and good job to the driver for keeping control

04-21-2007, 11:13 PM	#100 (permalink)
drew303 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Olympia, WA Posts: 2,000	how the heck do you bend an axle housing like that?!?! if that was how it was BEFORE the axle came off thats probably the cause of the whole accident. __________________ 1987 Pickup, single cab, 22R, new head, 260 cam TG 3" SAS, rear disc brakes, chromoly rear axles, Chromoly Birfs, Tcase brake, 37x12.50R15 MT/Rs, 5.29 gears, rear Aussie Locker, front Detroit Truetrac.

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