*SNAP* Rear Axle sheared off at 45mph and tire went for a ride!
04-16-2007, 07:02 PM
#62
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I won;t know what really happened till Thursday when All Phase and I tear into the axle and 3rd member to see what's going on. I will definitely let you all know and document with pictures too...
Thanks everyone for your input!
04-16-2007, 07:13 PM
#64
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sorry for referring to it as a C-clip =/ i guess we were all the on the same page except for those that are familiar with different axles =p
Im happy you're all ok to, that would be scary!
Maybe im confused, whats a 3rd gen 4runner? Isnt a 93 called a 2nd gen? When did they put ABS on toyotas?
Im happy you're all ok to, that would be scary!
Maybe im confused, whats a 3rd gen 4runner? Isnt a 93 called a 2nd gen? When did they put ABS on toyotas?
04-16-2007, 08:28 PM
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Are you talking about a domestic axle, such as a D44 axle? I know those type of setups use a C-clip on the inside of the axle. I was not aware of Toyota's using a C-clip on the inside of the axle. With Toyota having a 3rd member that drops out, how would you get the C-clip onto the inside of the axle?
Domestic innards of the diff:
*snip*
Another image of the inner axle shaft on a domestic or C-clip type axle shaft:
*snip*
Again, with the drop out 3rd, I don't see how you can place a C-clip on the inside of the axle, when the 3rd member is put in.
Unless, you have some special way.....
edit: There is an article that talks about the Toyota's having Pressed in bearings that hold it all together. The C-clip eliminator, uses pressed in bearings. Toyota, as far as I know, uses pressed in bearings to hold it all together. When the bearing fails, you loose the wheel.
*snip*
With the tremendous side loads being placed on our rigs when wheeling, these bearings are prone to loosen up. When my wife was driving my rig home, I was following her and noted that the driver rear wheel was wobbling a bit. I pulled the shaft and drum, and noted that the bearing had some play in it. I decided right there, it was full-floater time. I have the FROR Full floater kit, and it is awesome! I don't worry about pressed in bearings failing anymore due to a heavy vehicle side loading the bearings. Plus, now my bearings are servicable when I want to service them.
Domestic innards of the diff:
*snip*
Another image of the inner axle shaft on a domestic or C-clip type axle shaft:
*snip*
Again, with the drop out 3rd, I don't see how you can place a C-clip on the inside of the axle, when the 3rd member is put in.
Unless, you have some special way.....
edit: There is an article that talks about the Toyota's having Pressed in bearings that hold it all together. The C-clip eliminator, uses pressed in bearings. Toyota, as far as I know, uses pressed in bearings to hold it all together. When the bearing fails, you loose the wheel.
*snip*
With the tremendous side loads being placed on our rigs when wheeling, these bearings are prone to loosen up. When my wife was driving my rig home, I was following her and noted that the driver rear wheel was wobbling a bit. I pulled the shaft and drum, and noted that the bearing had some play in it. I decided right there, it was full-floater time. I have the FROR Full floater kit, and it is awesome! I don't worry about pressed in bearings failing anymore due to a heavy vehicle side loading the bearings. Plus, now my bearings are servicable when I want to service them.
They use a clip too, but it is served differently and works in a slightly different manner.
this is the clip im talking about
04-16-2007, 08:29 PM
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sure it is. if you dont tighten your wheel bearing nuts, and use the lock washer.
04-16-2007, 08:32 PM
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Just my opinion, but I think at this point, giving your tendancies to push the limits of Tippy, you would be better off going to a Full Floater. Brian at FROR can hook you up with the parts you need to make Tippy into a stronger rig. You may be able to using the existing axle tube, and slap Brian's Full Floater kit on. In the long run, you will definitly be ahead of the game.
no need to go to floaters.
04-16-2007, 08:34 PM
#72
If you are going to wheel...full floater gets you home...semi floater leaves you stranded and/or needing to carry spare rear axles shafts...and you don't have to worry about your rear tires passing your on the trails (or road).
For the price...can't be beat...full floater rocks.
For the price...can't be beat...full floater rocks.
04-16-2007, 08:38 PM
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04-16-2007, 08:42 PM
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04-16-2007, 08:48 PM
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If that is what you folks are referring to; that's not the C-clip that is being talked about (by me at least). That is a spring steel circlip or snap ring if you prefer. The C-clips I & others are talking about are not spring steel & do not require snap ring pliers to remove. I'm sure that's where the confusion is coming from, the Toyota has snap ring retainers, not C-clips. The C-clips we are referring to are named that because they look like a "C" it's not short for circlip.
Edit: thanks for the picture Gonzo!
Edit: thanks for the picture Gonzo!
lets not bring up what a dana has on it, cause we arent discussing a dana.
04-16-2007, 09:12 PM
#77
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So yeah the FF option is being considered for sure!
04-17-2007, 03:58 AM
#78
I think by the time you add in cost and additional cost...the full floater is very economically feasible...I love the full floater. If you have any questions on it, let me know as I did mine recently and still actually remember it.
04-17-2007, 06:18 AM
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I disagree with this.
As I stated earlier, the stock bearings are not designed for the side loading, wheelers place on these. They are designed to carry the vehicle down the road, with the weight of the vehicle square on the tread, thus placeing no sideloading of the bearings. When we wheel the pee out of our rigs, and constantly put a large side load on these bearings, they will eventually wear out. When my bearings wore out, I found it was 50 bucks a bearing for replacement, not including the labor. Givin Molly's ability to drive her rig, and where that rig goes, I would say there is no other option than to go Full Floater. Full Floater will allow her to service the bearings with parts from the local autoparts store, and much cheaper as well. Full Floater setups use tapered bearings, and places the load squarely 100% on two bearings. The Axle does not share the load. If an axle is busted, you pull it out, lock the diff, and continue on.
Full Floater, its the only solution to bearings when the wheeling gets extreme.
As I stated earlier, the stock bearings are not designed for the side loading, wheelers place on these. They are designed to carry the vehicle down the road, with the weight of the vehicle square on the tread, thus placeing no sideloading of the bearings. When we wheel the pee out of our rigs, and constantly put a large side load on these bearings, they will eventually wear out. When my bearings wore out, I found it was 50 bucks a bearing for replacement, not including the labor. Givin Molly's ability to drive her rig, and where that rig goes, I would say there is no other option than to go Full Floater. Full Floater will allow her to service the bearings with parts from the local autoparts store, and much cheaper as well. Full Floater setups use tapered bearings, and places the load squarely 100% on two bearings. The Axle does not share the load. If an axle is busted, you pull it out, lock the diff, and continue on.
Full Floater, its the only solution to bearings when the wheeling gets extreme.
Last edited by SteveO; 04-17-2007 at 06:22 AM.
04-17-2007, 06:20 AM
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