dieselloco427

Hey guys - well, after 165,000 miles my 3.0 has finally blown it's head gasket for the 2nd time. I've already started tearing the top end apart, but I just have one question. Where is the best place to get rebuilt heads? I've looked at engnbldr's site, but it doesn't look like he has rebuilt 3.0 heads. I've also come across Odessa*Cylinderhead on eBay and was wondering if anyone has worked with them at all. I do have the option of a local machine shop, but I'm not sure of any places with a good reputation in the Norfolk, VA area.

If anyone could offer their $.02 I'd appreciate it

tried4x2signN

ok, I wanna know...

How do you know the heads were done right after it blew the 1st head gasket?

Are you your own mechanic? Did you take them to a machine shop?

My gut tells me you need to find another machine shop...

Factory heads will always be better than aftermarket... And I don't know if anyone makes one for the V6... As you know, someone does make a 22R casting... (oh, sorry. My point is there is prolly a reason Ted doesn't carry aftermarket V6 heads)

And another thing... Have you considered finding a runner parts truck and just swap the engine over...


EDIT: EDIT: Damn that's low miles IMO... Definitely sounds like somebody can't rework heads...

1990yota-pickup

did you check the head to see if it is tolerance.. with a straight edge and a feeler gauge

those engines love to blow head gaskets for some reason..

norcal707

Hey loco. Why do you go to different machine shops for quotes to have them rebuilt....I think would

dieselloco427

The engine was actually rebuilt (during the HG recall) at 65,000 miles by the dealer under the original owner because it spun a rod bearing. My odometer reading is now Just under 231,000 miles, so I think that is pretty good length of time for a head gasket to hold up that long on one of these things.

I'm going to call around the area today and see if I can get a quote. There is a mechanic in the area who strictly does Honda and Toyota, so I'm going to call him and see which machine shop he uses. The only thing that I know is wrong with my heads so far is that I need new valve guide seals. Of course, I haven't completed the teardown so I don't know what the valves look like or the condition of the combustion chamber, etc.

It would be nice to find a parts rig and swap a 3.4l into it, but that's a little more than I'd like to spend right now. (Broke college student lol )

Wrenchinjoe

This may be a budget buster as well, but have you considered buying an entire rebuilt long block? I think you can get one for about $1,500 and many offer a 3 year/36K mile warranty. Just a thought.

dieselloco427

I've considered that. I'm going to finish tearing the heads off Saturday/Sunday and see what the bottom end looks like. I'll post some pics too. As long as there is not severe scoring on the cylinder walls and the pistons are in good shape I'll be happy with the bottom end. I had about 150-155 psi of compression in all of the cylinders (except good 'ol #6 where the gasket failed).

tried4x2signN

I've seen or heard about 22R's eating head gaskets like candy too...

The key is, not putting a warped head back on... And all machinists aren't perfect. You can get a bad one and pay all that money and get a bad head right back...

And we all know nobody puts cheap parts in them to, right?

tried4x2signN

And another thing....

Both heads use the same casting... So in your search, if you happen to find one good one, grab it.

You can always get another one, if you find another one in better shape.


Take them to be reworked and just slap them on.

dieselloco427

That is VERY true. One of the machine shops that the high performance place I worked at used was horrible. We eventually stopped using them. I would see cars come back with bent valves (due to overmilling I guess) and a whole bunch of other crap because of bad machining.

I've actually decided to pull the whole engine out. Mainly because I've got some other leaks that I want to fix (oil cooler on the block, oil pan), and in case I find out the bottom end needs to be reworked, everything will already be out. Which leads me to another question - drop the front differential to get to the motor mounts or is there another way? I need to read through the FSM tonight, so my question might be answered then.

norcal707

Hey loco...have you got the heads off from the engine...if you have them you have like a hour or so more of work to do to get the engine out....I pull the engine out from mine a few weeks ago...if you look inside the fender wheel you can see you can get into the engine mount and unbolt the two bolts...I think is more work if you drop the front end then pulling it from the top.

dieselloco427

The heads aren't off yet. I've only gone so far as the intake plenum. My weekend has been busy, and I probably won't be able to get back to this until Monday/Tuesday. And yes, I was looking through the fender there, seems like it won't be to hard to get to those bolts. The only things I have left to take loose from the engine before pulling it are the motor mounts, transmission bell housing bolts, torque converter bolts and the wiring harness. I'm just going to cut the downpipe because I'm getting a whole new exhaust after this is all over.