Pitman Arm stuck
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Pitman Arm stuck
Hi,
I'm trying to rebuild the power steering gear box on my 88 4runner. I'm using the instructions from the toyota_truck_and_4runner_88.pdf. I've managed to disconnect the universal joint and am trying to remove the pitman arm from the gear housing but it's stuck. I've removed the nut and lock washer but managed to break two different pitman arm pullers; one from HF and one from AutoZone. I've soaked the gear housing's shaft in PB Blaster over a long period of time. I'm hoping someone might have some tips or advice to avoid breaking another puller. Thanks in advance!
~I
I'm trying to rebuild the power steering gear box on my 88 4runner. I'm using the instructions from the toyota_truck_and_4runner_88.pdf. I've managed to disconnect the universal joint and am trying to remove the pitman arm from the gear housing but it's stuck. I've removed the nut and lock washer but managed to break two different pitman arm pullers; one from HF and one from AutoZone. I've soaked the gear housing's shaft in PB Blaster over a long period of time. I'm hoping someone might have some tips or advice to avoid breaking another puller. Thanks in advance!
~I
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hi waskillywabbit,
Thanks for the quick reply and the advice! I hope you don't mind a few follow-ups.
I've searched for about 1 hour and only managed to find conflicting or non-applicable advice thus far. I've tried swearing at the pitman arm, the 4runner, and Toyota. I used every dirty word I know and none helped.
I'm a little afraid to try heat. My power steering gear housing is leaking fluid and is covered is something that smells like it might catch fire if I apply a flame. Any tips for this circumstance? Clean it as much as possible and get a torch?
The first puller (HF) has a rough casting that broke but the second puller's casting stripped it's threads. Can you recommend a tool that works well on really stuck pitman arms?
The pitman arm seems to bound. It moved 1/2 - 3/4" and then just stopped. Do I need to remove the Idler Arm first? Is the service manual's procedure correct?
Thanks for the quick reply and the advice! I hope you don't mind a few follow-ups.
I've searched for about 1 hour and only managed to find conflicting or non-applicable advice thus far. I've tried swearing at the pitman arm, the 4runner, and Toyota. I used every dirty word I know and none helped.
I'm a little afraid to try heat. My power steering gear housing is leaking fluid and is covered is something that smells like it might catch fire if I apply a flame. Any tips for this circumstance? Clean it as much as possible and get a torch?
The first puller (HF) has a rough casting that broke but the second puller's casting stripped it's threads. Can you recommend a tool that works well on really stuck pitman arms?
The pitman arm seems to bound. It moved 1/2 - 3/4" and then just stopped. Do I need to remove the Idler Arm first? Is the service manual's procedure correct?
#4
Contributing Member
Waskilly is right. Need a better puller.
I've put a breaker bar with a 3 ft. pipe on mine to get them off.
Sometimes I've left them under tension overnight and in the morning they've been on the ground.
I've put a breaker bar with a 3 ft. pipe on mine to get them off.
Sometimes I've left them under tension overnight and in the morning they've been on the ground.
#5
Hi waskillywabbit,
Thanks for the quick reply and the advice! I hope you don't mind a few follow-ups.
I've searched for about 1 hour and only managed to find conflicting or non-applicable advice thus far. I've tried swearing at the pitman arm, the 4runner, and Toyota. I used every dirty word I know and none helped.
I'm a little afraid to try heat. My power steering gear housing is leaking fluid and is covered is something that smells like it might catch fire if I apply a flame. Any tips for this circumstance? Clean it as much as possible and get a torch?
The first puller (HF) has a rough casting that broke but the second puller's casting stripped it's threads. Can you recommend a tool that works well on really stuck pitman arms?
The pitman arm seems to bound. It moved 1/2 - 3/4" and then just stopped. Do I need to remove the Idler Arm first? Is the service manual's procedure correct?
Thanks for the quick reply and the advice! I hope you don't mind a few follow-ups.
I've searched for about 1 hour and only managed to find conflicting or non-applicable advice thus far. I've tried swearing at the pitman arm, the 4runner, and Toyota. I used every dirty word I know and none helped.
I'm a little afraid to try heat. My power steering gear housing is leaking fluid and is covered is something that smells like it might catch fire if I apply a flame. Any tips for this circumstance? Clean it as much as possible and get a torch?
The first puller (HF) has a rough casting that broke but the second puller's casting stripped it's threads. Can you recommend a tool that works well on really stuck pitman arms?
The pitman arm seems to bound. It moved 1/2 - 3/4" and then just stopped. Do I need to remove the Idler Arm first? Is the service manual's procedure correct?
The fact that the pitman arm has already moved a good bit has me confused - I would try tightening it back up on the splines and pull it again - repeat several times until it works its way off.
#6
Puller on tight as it'll go first time.
Smack end with 3 lb sledge. Tighten quarter turn. Soak with PB or similar. Swear at it. Go drink a beer and watch tv for awhile or do something else. Repeat.
If that doesn't work, clean it up, heat up the pitman arm not the shaft, repeat above.
Smack end with 3 lb sledge. Tighten quarter turn. Soak with PB or similar. Swear at it. Go drink a beer and watch tv for awhile or do something else. Repeat.
If that doesn't work, clean it up, heat up the pitman arm not the shaft, repeat above.
#7
Puller on tight as it'll go first time.
Smack end with 3 lb sledge. Tighten quarter turn. Soak with PB or similar. Swear at it. Go drink a beer and watch tv for awhile or do something else. Repeat.
If that doesn't work, clean it up, heat up the pitman arm not the shaft, repeat above.
Smack end with 3 lb sledge. Tighten quarter turn. Soak with PB or similar. Swear at it. Go drink a beer and watch tv for awhile or do something else. Repeat.
If that doesn't work, clean it up, heat up the pitman arm not the shaft, repeat above.
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#8
I have an excellent work ethic instilled in me from both my parents who still both work full time at 70. I just don't get in a hurry doing anything. Persistence always beats resistance. Might as well enjoy the trip, only one you get.
#9
Registered User
Tighten the puller as much as you dare, tap the sides of the pitman arm with a hammer. You can also tap the center bolt of the puller. It should come off with a bang.
I didn't use heat on mine. I was afraid of damaging the seals.
I didn't use heat on mine. I was afraid of damaging the seals.
#13
Contributing Member
^ well that would be silly, then he'd have to get a new idler arm too
I've always managed to break them free using the method other's have mentioned. A good quality puller, tightening it up and getting a good bit of tension on it, then smack the hell out of the side of the pitman arm with a hammer, put a little more tension on the puller, smack with hammer again, repeat...
I got my puller from Advance Auto Parts, and used it to rebuild my ENTIRE front suspension, AND it's pulled off my pitman arm at least 5 times, since after the rebuild I had to take it off again because I replaced the gearbox, and then had to take it off AGAIN after installing it at the wrong clocked posision, etc...
I've always managed to break them free using the method other's have mentioned. A good quality puller, tightening it up and getting a good bit of tension on it, then smack the hell out of the side of the pitman arm with a hammer, put a little more tension on the puller, smack with hammer again, repeat...
I got my puller from Advance Auto Parts, and used it to rebuild my ENTIRE front suspension, AND it's pulled off my pitman arm at least 5 times, since after the rebuild I had to take it off again because I replaced the gearbox, and then had to take it off AGAIN after installing it at the wrong clocked posision, etc...
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 02-04-2010 at 03:22 PM.
#14
Registered User
Good puller on the arm, tighten, smack the end of the puller towards the box, tighten, repeat. Keep the nut on by a few threads so when she does pop, the arm and puller don't fly off and smack ya in the biscuit.
#15
Heat and lots of penetrating oil, get two big hammers. Get a helper to hold one hammer against one side of the pitman arm, and hit the other side with the other hammer. I always use a puller at work, but at home I use this method and it always works.
#17
Contributing Member
it's quite repeatative, isn't it Goat
oh btw, to get the arm off, just put a remover tool on it, tightening it up and get a good bit of tension on it, then smack the hell out of the side of the pitman arm with a hammer, put a little more tension on the puller, smack with hammer again, repeat...
or use heat and penetrating solvent
oh btw, to get the arm off, just put a remover tool on it, tightening it up and get a good bit of tension on it, then smack the hell out of the side of the pitman arm with a hammer, put a little more tension on the puller, smack with hammer again, repeat...
or use heat and penetrating solvent
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 02-04-2010 at 06:38 PM.
#19
Contributing Member