86 TOY

Oh yeah, Southern Indiana... not a true "Hoosier", just transplanted here (job/wife). Weather man on the news tonight said its not supposed to top 25 degrees this week!!! I actually live about 15 minutes from a Toyota plant were they used to make Tundras, I think they've switched over to the Highlander now.

Been to Pittsburgh a few times, used to have to go to Washington, Slippery Rock and Johnstown for work. Haven't been that way in a couple years though.

86 TOY

THANK YOU! Man you just saved me a major headache!!! I hate to even say it but my buddy who told me about the oil pan has done extensive work on Jeeps not Toyotas. I wanted to believe him, but in the back of my mind I kept saying there's no way all these people on YotaTech would be dealing with that crank pulley bolt if they didn't have to!

I agree on the looks on the front of the motor. I'm just not seeing much oil around the pulley, but everything else behind there is soaked? 92 TOY may be right, it could be a loose timing cover?

As far as the Harbor Freight stuff goes I gotta admit I'd never heard of them before this forum. I was sure I'd never even seen one but then I clicked on your link that included the sockets and guess what? There's one right here in town! I'll check them out.

As for tonights damage at Sears (wife was good to me!):
154 piece Craftsmen mechanic set on sale-- SWEET!!!
20" breaker bar

AutoZone:
15 qt oil recycle pan
(2) 10 packs of Nitrile gloves

flyingbrass- I actually saw your reply on my phone while I was at Sears and backed away from the jacks! I did check them out at Autozone and they have a 2 ton Duralast with 2 jack stands and a creeper for $49... are these any good? Gotta like the price. The tab on this project is rising...

flyingbrass

A friend has an 81 CJ7 with a 258. I helped him replace the rear main seal. It's two pieces and accessible by removing the oil pan, so I understand what your mechanic buddy was suggesting. Just keep him away from your Toyota.

Everyone should be aware of Harbor Freight. I cringe when anyone pays as much for a single socket at Sears as a whole set costs at HF. Just be careful. A few HF tools are amazing quality for the price, but a lot of their stuff is mediocre at best. Caveat emptor.

As for jacks, I can't offer much advice other than they should be used to lift the vehicle up high enough so that it can be lowered on to supporting jack stands. Don't overestimate the strength of the stands: http://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-socal-80s...d-kill-me.html

Keep the jack semi-supporting the load (not holding, but lightly kissing), place removed wheels underneath, and pay attention to where you position your body as you work on things.

86 TOY

HOLY CRAP!!! Everyone should check out that link. Be careful!

misterzee

my 2 cents on your subject... from what I can see in your pix, your problem is minor and not worth high anxiety or rushing and tearing into it until you really know what's causing it.

Take FLYINGBRASS's advice, first, get it all super clean and dry and drive it, and look for oil on the outside after a little time has passed.

Take a look at your plugs... leaking a quart in a month (how many miles?) would make your engine much dirtier than your pictures indicate. I'd bet you're burning oil and just not seeing it. Check for heavy ash deposits on the plugs.

Did you switch oil weights or types? Synthetic? That can exacerbate leaks on an old engine.

Your engine front looks quite clean for a 50,000 mile 22re in my experience. I think if your front seal was bad, you'd have much more oil around the front. (Also, $21 for the seal is pretty ridiculous.) IF you decide to replace it, check the condition of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer, and if its grooved, put on a speedi-sleeve (or remove and replace the old one). If your engine was previously rebuilt professionally, I can't imagine them not doing the timing chain.

Dropping the pan is NOT a way to get to either main seal on the 22re. Its also NOT fun on an IFS truck. If you must drop the pan to reseal it, plan to remove the front diff. Its extra work, but about the only way you can get the pan done correctly.

If most of your oil is at the rear, dripping from the bell housing, perhaps the clutch boot is oily or getting soft, then the rear main is the culprit.

Lumpy

Well I finally had sometime to sit and read this whole thread...(home sick from work today, working from home. It's odd I've been sicker this year than I have been in the past 3 years all together but that's another story).

As I agree with the majority here. Clean it up and run her for a week and see where it's coming from. I really doubt it's the front seal or the rear seal for that matter. My $ goes to the timing cover and oil pan right around where they meet. I know you said that you have 50k on that motor now if you could find out if the chain was changed on the last rebuild. If not change it now when you open it up, also get the better guides from engnbldr as well.

Misterzee has a good point also did you change the weight or type of oil that you are using?

So a quick recap here. The meeting of the mindless have about the same conclusion.
1. Clean it real well and run for a week or so.
2. Post pic's of it clean
3. Find the leak (Cant forget this step)
4. Post pic's of the mess
5. Fix the leak (most important)
6. Post tons of pic's so we can pretend were all there helping.

Sounds simple enough right???

Lumpy

Ya I know the old girl has a bit of cancer...she's still holding together though, surprisingly.

Teuf

Is that a (eeeeeeeeeeekk) Fram filter i see there. There are sleeves available to go along with a seal change. Some time there is a groove in the main shaft made bye the oil seal itself. mines been weepin for a while.

Teuf

OOOPs sorry Mrz you pointed that out, sleeve that is. I like my oil drip, keeps things from rusting.

Lumpy

Maybe that's why my runner is in such bad shape. No oil leak.

86 TOY

Thanks for the help guys! One thing guess I hadn't mentioned before on this thread is that this truck for the most part sat from May '03 - Sept '09, ocassionally driven and started (maybe once every month or two?). That may be the biggest factor? The odometer has 155k on her now, around 110k it was replaced with a rebuilt 22r at the dealership so I gotta believe the timing chain was done. After 6 years apart I got the truck back last month. When I got it back there was no oil leak and it ran better than I ever remember it! Since the truck was 3 hours away from me I had to have a buddy do the following to get it running again:

stock Aisin carb rebuilt
new oil (always been 10w30 or 10w40)
new oil filter (nope not a Fram- it's Napa)
new air filter
new spark plugs and wires
new distributor cap
reset timing and idle
fuel lines blown and new fuel filter installed
all hoses where inspected and most replaced
new coolant
new tires (you can imagine the dry rot!!!)

There may be more I'm forgetting but I think thats most of it. Anybody see anything from that list that opens your eyes??? Like I said when I got it back in November there were no leaks? Had a 3 hour drive home and it ran like a dream- well as much as a 22r can with 31's and 4.10's in it!!!

In the meantime it's gonna get cleaned up so I can get some pics up here and let you guys on YOTATECH plan our next move...

flyingbrass

You didn't mention the PCV valve. If it's plugged up your crankcase pressure could be running high, forcing oil out of whatever leaks the easiest.

Check it. It's in the top of the valve cover. Take off the hose and pull the valve out of the grommet (easier said than done when the grommet is old). Blow through the valve. A decent amount of air should pass through when blowing from the fat side, and none blowing from the skinny side (with the valve held vertically as it sits in the cover). Also, if you shake it, the weight/valve gizmo inside should rattle back and forth easily.

86 TOY

Thanks, I'll check that out.

Update: When I ordered the front main seal from the dealership the parts guy there asked me if I was sure that's what was wrong. He said if I wasn't he could have the service department check it out for FREE and then decide. I know it's against the rules on this forum to have someone else work on your truck (believe me after spending many hours on here I'm looking forward to digging in) but I figured what do I have to lose since I wasn't sold it was the front main seal since I didn't have a lot of oil around there. Well 2 hours later they told me it's the oil pan! I asked if they checked the seal and torque on the timing cover and they said yes. Funniest part was there estimate to drop the pan (it's an IFS), put some FIPG on and reassemble... $500!!! Had ZERO intention of letting them work on it anyway but you gotta be freakin kiddin me! On top of that when I started the truck up that morning I found a golf ball size rusted out hole in my tailpipe!

Things are on hold right now. It's single digit temps here this weekend and we just got about 5 inches on snow...

Thankfully this isn't my DD, 2010 Camry (company issued car) picked up on Halloween- it's like riding on a pillow, got some zip to it!

flyingbrass

IMO, seek all the advice you can get. Nothing wrong having a Toyota tech look at it for free. I would have jumped at the opportunity, figuring they'll probably check closely to find anything that can add to the bill.

86 TOY

That was my thinking? Was kind of worried they'd tear something up and tell me it wouldn't be driveable unless I paid them to fix it...

It's actually at another place in town right now that gives free estimates. I'm curious to hear what they come back with. Like I was saying, I have no interest in letting them work on it but this at least gives me some more direction on where to start tearing into from someone who's laid eyes on it.

75k5toy

Be berrrrrrrrry carefull with those FREE inspections places. they may ended up telling you it's the rear end.

txclimber

Don't let that crankshaft bolt scare you. You only hear about the bad ones. 4th gear, e-brake on, and mine loosened right up with minimal grunting. Looks like you've got lots up help here. Many of the same folks really helped me.

1990yota-pickup

well if you noticed some of thos other pic's that had a front main seal leak, they showed a good sign of evedecne it was leaking by dripping directly on the crank pully

86 TOY

Great people on YotaTech!

Did you do the 4th gear, e-brake on with a 5spd manual or an auto? I did pick up a 18" breaker bar, but no pipe... not afraid to give the starter trick a try if needed. We'll see where I end up...oil pan, timing chain/cover, front main seal?

txclimber

Yeah, mine's a manual tranny.

92 toy had a fit with his auto:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...emoval-193505/

You may pm him and see if he has any tips. Good luck.

If I may add my 2 cents: Whichever method you use, just make sure you are using a quality 6pt 19mm socket. If that bad boy slips and messes up the head of the bolt, you're really in a jam. Make sure the 1st try works.

A lot of people have luck with the starter trick. I would have used it, but only as a last option. When researching it I read about several ways. I would def put the breaker bar UNDER the passenger side frame, rather than OVER the driver side. Seems safer, and when you hear the bar fall to the ground, you know you're there.