SuaveGato

Hello,
I am replacing the RMS & maybe T-case output shaft seals while doing a clutch job on 1991 4runner 4x4 3L. It has been recommended to me to ONLY USE OEM seals. Is it really worth the extra $? Obviously if they fail then yes, the money pails in comparison to the labor to replace but what I?m really asking is ARE THE OEM SEALS REALLY THAT MUCH BETTER AND THAT LESS LIKELY TO FAIL over the parts store seals? If yes, then it is defiantly worth the extra dough but if not, then why waste the money? Does anyone know if they are the same? Better, worse etc.? I surely don't want to tear it back apart but am not into wasting money either...

And same question about the Pilot & throw out bearing too? Almost every manufactures kit come with them but some say ONLY USE OEM pilot & throw out? What gives? Are the kit ones junk? and for the same reasons listed above, I'll spend the extra dough if they are that much better but if not, why waste it? the Stealer want 2 - 3 times as much for bearings & seals, so I don't know?

Any real world experience out there who knows who can enlighten me?
thanks,
biGjOhn

justinking060310

i would use a quality name TO bearing, the rest i would use store brand, which is usually Timken anyways

Kat

MudHippy

Toyota OEM parts are no better than the generic equivalent in my experience. I've replaced nearly every imaginable seal, and many bearings on my rig. I haven't used Toyota parts for any of them. All the "cheap" parts I've bought have worked out perfect as far as fit and performance. No complaints here. In fact, I'll even recommend all of them, some in my opinion better than stock. I shop almost entirely from http://rockauto.com, or http://napaonline.com for OEM grade replacement parts.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

I have never had a problem with store bought seals andnad wheel bearings, but I do buy my throw out bearing from Toyota.

SuaveGato

The Throw out (release) bearing that comes with the LUK Gold series is Koyo, Japanese. I think that is an OEM Manufacture, no? I am just going to run with that and be done wif it... and do the RMS while I'm there. The T-case seals arent' leaking now (neither is the RMS tho) but I want to at least do the RMS while I'm there, just in case. The T-case I can at least get to later *if* they develope a leak?
biGjOhn

FredTJ

As long as you stick with a major brand for the seals, like Timken or Chicago Rawhide, etc., and a major brand clutch like Luk, you'll be fine.






Fred

86tuning

spending an extra couple bucks for seals from the dealer can definately be worth it, especially for special seals like pinion seals and whatnot.

For a rear main, spending the extra $5-10 can really be worth the peace of mind. How many times do you want to pull the trans out? lol.

My rule of thumb: for stuff that's hard to reach, use genuine parts. For stuff that's easy, or if the aftermarket companies make IMPROVED parts, then go aftermarket.

Cheers!

justinking060310

delete