Erik Beeman

I don't have 1-4 tho. Cylinder #1's rod says "4", cylinder #2's rod says "3", cylinder number 3's rod says "2", and cylinder #4's rod says "3". I don't have a 1.

And my caps do not have any numberings, just letters.

Erik Beeman

I know the numbers on my caps FOR SURE, because before I even pulled the stock motor apart I put punch marks on the bottom of each, 1 mark for #1, 2 marks for #2, and so on. Now I don't know what the rods are.

olharleyman

should be on the left side numbers on both are you sure theres not a 1 ? so go 2 the second hole from the front 3 behind it 4 behind it and then the one left over to the front then take the caps and try to match them and see what you end up with.

olharleyman

using your logic with the punch marks go by the left side numbers on the rods and see what you end up with.

olharleyman

I will stay here with ya till its figured out so keep me posted

Erik Beeman

I am sooooooo lost. LOL!


So, all in alll, I have a number 2 rod, two number 3 rods, and a number 4 rod. And I have the caps that are marked by me in the way I took them out (which is how I KNOW that they are the correct number.)

olharleyman

See if you can line them up outside the holes by matching the cap and rod markings that may be on them kind of like building a puzzle and see if that gets you any closer sounds almost like some one redid the motor and mixed and matched the rods and caps to make it run

olharleyman

maybe and it sounds like one of the two 3's should be in the first cylinder and the rest fall in line at that if you punched them you are half way there cause 2 and the 2 punchs should go to the second cylinder same with 4 now it's just getting the two 3's figured out

Erik Beeman

See in this picture where the two bolt together, you can see a kinda "N" looking thing. This is what my machinist was telling me that aligns them together. He was telling me that the factory assembles them, then stamps a marking across both surfaces, which is where that "N" comes from....see what I'm talking about?

olharleyman

Yea I seen that the first time but none of mine have that N mark on them I think he was covering his ass for mixing them up and not knowing how to get them where they belong. If you look close you can see they don't quite line up correctly looks like the top not sure if it s the cap or rod but the hump looks a little higher then the bottom side plus the N looks a bit wider on the bottom side then the top side

spdjnky

check to make sure the caps are on the right way. they should have a arrow that should point to the front of the motor. I had the same problem when I torqued the caps to the proper ft pound. the motor wouldn't turn over but with them loose all was good. hope this helps...

Erik Beeman

Yes, all caps are on straight. They have the little tap, it's kinda hard to mix that up. Trust me, I've check every possible thing just to make sure I didn't make a stupid mistake.

Lumpy

I agree with OlHarley the N does not look quite right. Try matching them up differently to see if the N looks better.

Erik Beeman

Update:

I plastigage'd all rods. Rods 1 and 2 are within spec, rod 3 is on the limit @ .025mm, and rod 4 is out of spec (the plastigage gets crushed too much), which means tight. I assembled cylinders 1 and 2, and got them torqued this morning, and they spin no problem. So half the motor is done, but once I try to get 3 and 4 torqued, it locks up. What needs to be done? Crank turned? Or rods honed? Or what?

nvboy

Honestly? No offence but I leave that stuff up to the pros at the local machine shop if you're in a rush to get it done right, the alternative would be to source some undersize bearings but if you haven't replaced any parts I'd hardly think you'd need bearings to allow more clearance, rather the other way. I have to agree with the other guys I think your caps might be swapped around, to be honest the cap in the picture doesn't look to uniform in it's fitting. Trust me machine shop, those guys do it for a living and in their sleep.

olharleyman

swap 3 and 4 around caps , bearings and all see if you get anywhere that way

Erik Beeman

I only use machine shops when I can't or don't have the right tools to do it myself. If you don't do things yourself, you won't learn. I'm young, I have a lot to learn, but by giving my motor to someone else to handle isn't going to get me very far, nor learn very much. And, also, not everybody has money for machine shop costs, which, in my case, I don't.

I called the machine shop, and that is exactly what he told me to do....didn't work.



Heres an update:

I talked to the machine shop this morning, and told him...look, all these caps are switched around because YOU didn't pay attention when you hot tanked them. I gave them to him in specific order, and marked. Yes, it partially my fault marking with a erasable sharpie, but a machine shop should know that you can't mix them up to begin with. So, this morning, I called him and told him, I got the cylinders 1 and 2 to work, torqued down, and they measure fine, but 3 and 4 are binding up. I told him, I don't know if it is because he made a mistake by switching them around, or if it is actually my problem of the rods being egg shaped, or whatever. He pulled a good business move, and told me to bring everything in and he will take care of me. He asked me to bring the assembled piston and rod assembly to him, he is going to balance, hone, and match all 4 sets for me, because he made a mistake with the caps. Parts will be back tomorrow, but I am leaving for vacation for 10 days so I will not have time to assemble and test until I get back.

tailhole

look at the chamfer on the sides with m together. all rods are a little diff. thats the way i start than tork m and check m to see if ther round. also then you put m together you shouldnt feel a lip at the parting line

tailhole

heck if you were i would meet ya at the shop and fix you up in about 15min.

highway

Maybe take the rods/caps to the machinist and have them resized and matched ?