LEDs in Dome/Cluster/etc.
10-29-2009, 08:49 AM
#21
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Very helpful post, thank you. I am slightly concerned about the temperature controls, because the x3 LED I chose for the #74 is very slightly longer than a stock #74, and it may cause interference with the cluster... I guess there's only one way to find out.
What bulb did you use in the cluster that wasn't very bright? What color did you use?
And do you have any pics?
What bulb did you use in the cluster that wasn't very bright? What color did you use?
And do you have any pics?
Photo bucket is not cooperating, I can email you some pics if you'd like.
10-29-2009, 10:00 AM
#23
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ok if i do the swap to an SR5 cluster will everything be plug and paly? or will i have to buy a dash harness for the new cluster? i did a digital cluster swap in my prelude and had to do the whole new dash harness it sucked haha if i have to do the dash harness i might just look into doing the LED bulbs in the cluster i have now
10-29-2009, 10:56 AM
#24
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ok if i do the swap to an SR5 cluster will everything be plug and paly? or will i have to buy a dash harness for the new cluster? i did a digital cluster swap in my prelude and had to do the whole new dash harness it sucked haha if i have to do the dash harness i might just look into doing the LED bulbs in the cluster i have now
Keep in mind you're going to have to replace the lights either way, even if you swap in a cluster. If the tach is really worth it to you, then go for it, but either way you'll be doing the same work and won't have a correct odometer anymore.
10-29-2009, 11:01 AM
#25
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I just used the x, the first one in the #194 section on the superbright website, for the gauges. It only has 1 led so the light did not spread as well as I'd hoped for. I hadn't planned on changing out the temperature control bulb, but it decided to blow while the dash was out, so I ran to Advanced and picked up an incandescent and used that without the green condom on it. It's ok for now, but I'm planning on making an order to superbright soon for my reverse lights (4crawlers website has a write up) x5's for the dash, a #74 for my controls, and some others for my brother's YJ.
Photo bucket is not cooperating, I can email you some pics if you'd like.
Photo bucket is not cooperating, I can email you some pics if you'd like.
You have a PM for emailing the pics.
10-29-2009, 12:03 PM
#26
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SR5 Cluster swap
ok if i do the swap to an SR5 cluster will everything be plug and paly? or will i have to buy a dash harness for the new cluster? i did a digital cluster swap in my prelude and had to do the whole new dash harness it sucked haha if i have to do the dash harness i might just look into doing the LED bulbs in the cluster i have now
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...w-pics-179106/
10-29-2009, 12:20 PM
#27
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It's hard to tell but my hazard light triangle and A/C button lights aren't working after the swap. Maybe i missed something in the reinstall?
Last edited by stock as possible; 10-29-2009 at 12:35 PM.
10-29-2009, 01:27 PM
#28
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According to my research on the internets to understand scientifically what is best for low-light conditions, keep reading. It's interesting stuff, and I've tried to summarize about 20 articles.
There are three types of vision that are proprotional to the amount of available light in the visible spectrum: Photopic (high light), mesopic (low light), and scotopic (pitch black/very little light). As our human eyes don't have very many rod cells compared with animals, we have a very hard time seeing in mesopic and scotopic boundaries. Instead, we have a high number of cones, which allow the perception of color.
Rods contain a chemical called rhodopsin, which is extremely sensitive to light, particularly that in the shorter wavelength spectrum. The visible spectrum goes from approximately 380nm to 750nm (violet to red). We rely on cones for approximately 450-600nm wavelength, and rods as the bookends of the visible spectrum (most importantly, dark red).
During the mesopic vision stage (driving at night for example), anything of a shorter wavelength such as blue will negatively impact our ability to see because the rhodopsin "resets" and makes the rods MUCH less effective for about 5 minutes. This is called "bleaching" and it can take up to 30 minutes to fully recover from a blast of higher wavelength light.
Conclusion: Because we want to prevent the rhodopsin from the bleaching due to exposure by higher wavelengths of light such as blue and yellow, and because we have so few rod cells compared to cones which are sensitive to those colors, it is best to use red lights for instrumentation. Red lights at the appropriate spectrum will not cause this bleaching effect, or at least keep it to a minimum so that we can see the road.
How is that for an explanation? You can read more here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Night_vision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biological_pigment
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photopic_vision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mesopic_vision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhodopsin
There are three types of vision that are proprotional to the amount of available light in the visible spectrum: Photopic (high light), mesopic (low light), and scotopic (pitch black/very little light). As our human eyes don't have very many rod cells compared with animals, we have a very hard time seeing in mesopic and scotopic boundaries. Instead, we have a high number of cones, which allow the perception of color.
Rods contain a chemical called rhodopsin, which is extremely sensitive to light, particularly that in the shorter wavelength spectrum. The visible spectrum goes from approximately 380nm to 750nm (violet to red). We rely on cones for approximately 450-600nm wavelength, and rods as the bookends of the visible spectrum (most importantly, dark red).
During the mesopic vision stage (driving at night for example), anything of a shorter wavelength such as blue will negatively impact our ability to see because the rhodopsin "resets" and makes the rods MUCH less effective for about 5 minutes. This is called "bleaching" and it can take up to 30 minutes to fully recover from a blast of higher wavelength light.
Conclusion: Because we want to prevent the rhodopsin from the bleaching due to exposure by higher wavelengths of light such as blue and yellow, and because we have so few rod cells compared to cones which are sensitive to those colors, it is best to use red lights for instrumentation. Red lights at the appropriate spectrum will not cause this bleaching effect, or at least keep it to a minimum so that we can see the road.
How is that for an explanation? You can read more here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Night_vision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biological_pigment
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photopic_vision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mesopic_vision
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhodopsin
10-29-2009, 02:38 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by stock as possible;51265949[IMG
http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx54/ja28078/DSC008661.jpg[/IMG]
It's hard to tell but my hazard light triangle and A/C button lights aren't working after the swap. Maybe i missed something in the reinstall?
It's hard to tell but my hazard light triangle and A/C button lights aren't working after the swap. Maybe i missed something in the reinstall?
Do the hazard light and the A/C button require separate #74s?
10-30-2009, 06:13 AM
#33
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But I didnt replace the ac/hazard bulbs. could the new bulbs in the cluster being installed flip flopped mess with those? Or could the #74 in the temp controls be messing with them?
10-30-2009, 06:18 AM
#35
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http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED/G...98445-1-2.html
Last edited by BoostinChick; 10-30-2009 at 06:22 AM.
10-30-2009, 06:36 AM
#36
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No, it shouldn't. I would pull it and check the bulbs just to make sure they didn't blow out or nothing weird happened. As someone posted earlier most LED's are polarized, this means they only work one way. If they don't light up, you just flip them so the contact points power the bulb correctly. Should have no ill effects on other bulbs on different circuits.
http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED/G...98445-1-2.html
http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED/G...98445-1-2.html
10-30-2009, 07:06 AM
#37
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Did you get the WLED xHP5 or just the WLED x5. The HP's have a 360 degree spread but I'm wondering if they would be too bright for the interior, they are SMD, does that mean anything?
10-30-2009, 07:13 AM
#38
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10-30-2009, 07:59 AM
#39
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Hmmmmm, these are 194's not 74's, but you've got the same style for your 74's in your SR5 dash, so maybe they wouldnt be too bright.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/WLED-xHP5.htm
http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/WLED-xHP5.htm
10-30-2009, 10:01 AM
#40
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Im still running my blue leds from superbrite. WLED x5 194's for the cluster and turn signals, wedge 74's for the rest of the dash, brake, 4wd, hi-beam, ac/heater control and ashtray lights.
