thook

FOUND THE THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!

I was all mixed up on this one. It was posted by Weasy2k in 2k7.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...notice-118381/

myyota

Its always a good idea to go back and check the head bolts after 500 mile or so, wether the FSM says to or not.

thook

Really? And, why is that? Like zlathim said, how do expect to check them? They've been tighten twice down past the initial torque spec. Plus, they are not coming loose. If you did it right the first time...and you should.....a 500mi/1000k mi/or whatever mile inspection is just not necessary.

a4runnerfreak

My bad, I didn't mean to say to re-torque them, what I meant to say was to check the torque load and compare them to the torque numbers from the final sequencing(sp?), after the additional 90 degrees. I totally mistyped and didn't re-read what I typed before I posted.

thook

Really freak...it isn't necessary on these motors.

zlathim

Yes, it was extreme. I guess I was in a "mood" when I wrote that. I am usually a much kinder and gentler soul. My apologies for all the extra bashing. It was probably not necessary.

Awesome! Thank you for finding that thread for me. It makes perfect sense. I know that there really isn't any position where the cam is totally unloaded, but obviously it does make a difference when they are turned so that there is the least amount of spring load on the cam. Proper loosening sequence is also critical. Thanks again for taking the time to find that old thread!


Errrrr- Uhhhhh, well, buut, errr---ah heck with it, never mind.

thook

You're welcome, zlathim. It was just bugging me to post something vague without better explanation. I just had to let it go so the memory would come back.

And, hey.....we all have our moments.

YeloSub7

I did this rebuild when I had a 3.0. Not too bad, just time consuming, not too much space to work with. I would recommend pulling the engine for the rebuild, unless you are just doing the top end. Definitely check your valves and replace if necessary. And spend the money on getting the head resurfaced, it'll save you from having to do it all over again...

wardriver

the best trick I learned that I've not heard on here - once you've installed the new injector O rings, injectors, fuel rails, fuel pipes and fuel regulator...kick the fuel pump on to see if it leaks! I had my plenum back on only to find that 3 of the 6 new O rings failed even after dipping them in gas before the install.

To engage the fuel pump - turn the key on the in the diagnostic port jump the P and the FP terminals. They will be the two corner terminals located closes to the passenger side firewall.

thook

That's a good idea, wardriver. I'll remember that when I go to rebuilding the injectors on my V6.