BoostinChick

It's funny reading the process and finding out how to do this head. It's almost exact to my DSM/GSX head even with the 12pt head bolts. Does ARP offer head studs for the 3VZE and are there multi-layer composite gaskets that would hold better?

thook

I'm not sure if there are studs available, but there are MLS gaskets. Definitely the way to go. You really have to make sure the block is redecked and heads resurfaced precisely for best results, though.

BoostinChick

Just checked their website, only have it for the 22R, damn it I totally got he wrong motor!

wardriver

Well...I'm in in pretty deep so far. I'm scratching my head on how to get those bolts out of the cam gears. I called the Toyota dealer this am - no loaners or sales. Checked all the local car parts places - one has one $50 tool that might do the trick 3 hours away but they can have it here in the am... I spotted the SnapOn man and he didn't have anythign useful.....I hit it with my impact and it didn't like it. Maybe it needs more cowbell. I do know that I need to make some progress so any help would be...well helpful.

I'm stuck here:

REMOVE CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEYS
Using SST, remove the pulley bolt, timing pulley and
knock pin. Remove the 2 timing pulleys.
SST 09960–10010 (09963–01000)

zlathim

Does it not have flats on the camshaft for a wrench to hold it with?

benwahballs

Heres what I did to break and tighten them bolts
I used my jackall and took the actually ratcheting mechanism off, leaving only the solid piece of steel with all the holes in it and the base on the bottom.
I then found a large *grade 8* (you don't want that poppy snappin) bolt that just fit inside one of these holes on the jack piece, and bolt it to the jack piece at the appropriate height so that the threaded end will stick through to the gear and stop it from coming down as you turn the bolt.

make sense?

zlathim

Wow, that's using your noggin! Makes sense to me.

wardriver

My high lift jack was sold with my 72 FJ40...I know....I know....two mistakes I wish I hadn't made.

wardriver

Yes...I tried that a few times looks like that will be only option.

FYI:
The tool in question Toyota calls it a "VARIABLE PIN WRENCH SET"

The MAC Tool number is: ASW661 - I think they call it a cam tool spanner wrench.

wardriver

...progress continues. I found a company in town who sold a cam gear holder - they had it in for me the next day. About 30 seconds after I had it out of the package the bolts were free. What a difference. I'll post up the info on that tool later.

But I found the culprit. The gasket failed around piston #1. Fortunately it did not gouge the piston and I can see no damage other than the usual muck.

benwahballs

what'd u pay for that cam gear holder if you don't mind me asking?

wardriver

Here is a crappy picture of what I bought....It worked great for the cam gears and the crank pulley.



I paid $37 plus tax - but it was a life saver. Nobody else in town had anything like it. (not even the Sanp-On man) I couldn't have done this job with out it. Had I planned for my head gasket to fail and my truck be stuck in my driveway I probably would have bought it online.

Here it is for sale on Amazon for $25. Link.

wardriver

This is what I found...

jimbos_4runner

hey guys, jsut head my head gasket done at the mechanics, a mate my work said did they tell u to bring it back after like 1000kms or so. I was like no Y. he said that they normally re- tighten the head bolts. Is this right, or it doesnt matter, like it runns perfectly normal, no issues with it

wardriver

The factory service manual says nothing about that....

BoostinChick

I mentioned that on the 1st page. As everyone else is stating the Toyota FSM says nothing about it so you should be fine. With other cars (like my Mitsubishi) I had to go in and re-torque them.

jimbos_4runner

Hey thanks very much i appreciate the support, lol us aussie, are newbies. but yeah i can tell my work mate to go stick it haha, thinks he knows all.

a4runnerfreak

Just cuz the FSM doesn't say that you have to re-torque, it's always a good habit to get into of just doing it. Just in case.....ya know?

zlathim

So, help me understand this, cause I get a little confused.

The FSM says to torque to 35 ft lbs in sequence, then mark the head bolts, go back through the sequence turning each headbolt an additional 90 degrees, then back through the sequence again once more at 90 degrees. At that point you are done.

How the heck would you check or retorque after doing that? Go another 90 degrees? I think not. Nor do you know what the final torque value is after going a total of 180 degrees beyond the initial 35 ft lbs, so checking that they are torqued to any certain spec is out. Not to mention the fact that you would have to completely remove the upper intake plenum in order to get at the headbolts on the pass side head.

My question is this: Do you really have the experience necessary to be giving advice on this caliber of a job, or are you just spouting off non-sense every chance you get. Judging by the fact that you have over 1000 post in less than 2 months makes me lean toward the latter.

Sorry to be such a jerk, but it gets under my skin when people chime in with their two cents worth, but don't really know squat.

Feel free to flame me if I am wrong about this, I guess I would deserve it.

thook

Well, a little extreme, but you make a good point, zlathim. These are torque to yield headbolts. They are not designed to require retorqueing. In fact, I dare anyone to do it. It's so much fun trying to remove one of them suckers when they snap...and they can and do when stretched beyond their limit. I've been through it.

Advising someone to retorque them is simply unwise and uneducated....as good as the intentions may be. If anyone should have doubts regarding this, there's ample info on the web about how TTY HB's are designed.