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Two more thoughts. The codes don't always point you in the right direction... in fact that is understating it. This is partly because something can cause a problem which the ECM tries to compensate for, causing something else to "code".
Also, if it is the AFM, it will get worse with time, finally to the point where you are lucky to get it through an intersection when the problem shows up.
Thought you said you moved the plate. If so, that would have moved the pickup from the discontinous point (if there is one). So next time you get a no-start, try that again, as it is relatively easy to do. Also, you may notice hiccups while driving from the same problem... which would get more common with time. So that is my experience with the AFM.
In my own case, when I was finally convinced it was the AFM, I dug out the RTV and lifted the black rubber plate on top. Once that was off, it was obvious what the problem was. The resistive plate the contact slides on as the gate moves, had a groove worn in it. So, as I said, if that is the problem, you will have lots of further head-scratching opportunities. If the problem doesn't change, then you can figure its something else.
I could not fix the internal plate, although I tried, finally paying full retail to make sure I got a new one, as it was clear they wear out. In the case of the '85, there was 200k on it. So they last a long time (one way to look at it).
Already have that idea in mind to move the AFM flapper first if it does that again. Really runs great now when it's running. Smooth, no hesitation, rarely hear a spark knock.
I'll wait and see before digging into AFM lid.
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90 4R SR5 4WD 5SPD
3VZE
211K miles
'69 Ford Mustang Mach I
'82 Suzuki GS1100E
'68 Chevelle SS396
'99 1/2 Pathfinder LE