elripster

I use the heavy equipment diesel oils like Rotella T, Delvac 1200, or Delo 400. They have outstanding soot dispersion and hold up very well to shear. They are affordable. They might be a bit heavy for newer engines but I don't have one of those. My lastw 3.0 was a 297,000 miles and didn't require any oil in between 5K+ mile oil changes.

Frank

Elvota

When you guys switch from dino oil to full synthetic, do you just pout it in and add a new filter like a standard oil change... or do you have to take other steps?

Guessing if one likes to use 10w30 dino oil, you would keep the same viscosity when going to synthetic?

Prophet_MX

I have been running Rotella T 15-40 in my truck the last 3,000. Its time for another oil change and I think I'm going back to 10-30. I think the Rotella is good and the price is even better, but I think my truck likes 10-30.

elripster

If you are changing Rotella or the likes at 3,000 miles that's a big waste of money. Those oils remain in semis for 50K-100K miles with just filter changes. They are very stable and can disperse way more soot then your engine can put out in 6 months.

The 3k mile interval is a myth propagated by those who profit from it. Unless you are using really cheap oil and beating on the engine hard, run it at least 5K.

Frank

MudHippy

Well, it sounds like you picked up some good ideas at the dragstrip there. But, I don't think you understand the real theories behind either.

The guys runnin' the 20w-50 "race oil" are thinking about protecting vital engine components at the high temps/high pressures associated with high torque, sustained high rpm conditions in a racecar engine. The thicker the oil the better to prevent engine wear under extreme pressures/temps.(Longevity is key)

The guys runnin' lighter weight oils are doing so for the reasons you state. But, at the cost of the extra engine wear running lighter weight oils will cause.(Live fast, die young)

GenXr

I run royal purple because it makes me feel good....I only change it twice a year but change my filter every three months. So the cost is the same as regular oil.

Previously I've had good luck with Castrol GTX oil and been happy with that.

Cargun

Oil gets thicker and then starts to get thinner once it's worn out. If it's thinner than it started when you do an oil change, you need to change sooner.

I've heard from a lot of people that Pennzoil has "fixed" their oils so they don't sludge up engines like they used to. For a normal vehicle with normal use I'll use whatever API tested oil I can get my hands on. If you have an engine with sludge problems, synthetic may be worth it.

There are a lot of 300k+ mile cars that have had zero engine problems using basic dino oil. So unless there are extinuating circumstances, I wouldn't use a special oil. Yes synthetics are better, but on most good engine designs, you'll have everything else break before your engine wears out due to dino oil.

If your engine is free of leaks and blow by, you can use extended change intervals with synthetics. If the oil is getting dirty from leaks or combustion gasses, just run cheap dino oil and change often. For cold climates running a thin synthetic will help with cold start wear. But running the recommended viscosity of dino oil isn't "bad". More than likely that is what the engine was tested with by the factory.

ks_yota

just changed my oil yesterday.

went from quaker state 4x4 synthetic w/ fram filter to
castrol high mileage w/ toyota filter.

truck has lost a bit of pep and is making me want to switch back to synthetic already.

nate V

Dont switch back and forth....find a good one that works for you and your baby and stick too it.

If you are running regular non synthetic oil do not change to synthetic just for the sake of it.

When changing to synthetic from regular mineral multi viscosity oil after a long period of use then you will strip all the gaskets and seals of their sealing properties and there is a good chance of your engine developing leeks if not immediately then later down the road.

desertyodaboy

I disagree on a lot of you saying that switching to Synthetics will start to cause leaks. All the research I have done and my own experiences I have switched a few cars from dino oil to synthetic with well over 150000 on the engines and they run better, no leaks and even in some cases improves gas mileage and ticking. Synthetic is not thinner if you go with 10w-40 its going to be the same in both syn and dino....it has to be....so please switch to syn if you want....it can only help....if not stick with a good dino....just keep up on changes...I out synthetic in my integra at 145000 and it now has 245000 and it runs like a champ....MObil 1 by the way.

yotabob88

you are correct in that also they are using the heavy weight for more protection one note I forgot is that those that do it right also build their engines to larger oil clearances in preparation for knowing they will run that oil!!! So the oil you use in any vehicle depends on its use, operating conditions, and how it was built. these also factor in to the maintainance schedule that you follow, you guys using diesel oil have a great idea and depending on your driving conditions/habits you could go as far a 10k or more with that oil in our pickup engines (in a V8 a little less)I strongly recommend that if you follow a schedule that has 8k or more between oil and filter that you do change your oil at least once a year and use a good oil for that schedule!well also I've learned a lot since I'm in a tech school for becoming an automotive/diesel technician!! and also from places I've worked. Quick lube, drag strip, independent shop!

* side note: engine oil flushes from quick lubes are very bad and I almost got fired for not selling them because their basically like putting bleach in your engine(REALLY *** BAD!!!!) if you want to get your engine clean either overhaul it or use cheapo oil and change it every 500-800 miles until you feel its clean depending on how bad it is.

stormin94

Now why would you go an ask people to argue on here??? Asking people what oil they use and then asking them to argue about it is like bringing a case of beer to alcohol rehabilitation. Some one's gonna get hurt...

BigO

Or like asking a bunch of old Italian lady's "what's the best recipe for spaghetti sauce."

89pickupsr5

why? is this subject touchy to you?

yotabob88

I agree all the way synthetics are better and you can switch to them provided that your engine doesn't leak!(regaurdless of mileage) and yes synthetics can offer better mileage and performance. and yes anything with an API logo on it is good oil if it doesn't you won't find it in my car(s)! synthetics are great in not just oil too transfluid, gear lube, coolant, and many other fluids. Personally I've seen royal purple, mobil 1, and castrol synthetics and would use any of them!

Bigblock

As long as there is oil in it!Hell it's all slippery.BTW Valvoline 5W-30;ain't used a drop yet.

MMA_Alex

reading this thread hurt my brain with some of the crazy ideas you guys have in your heads.

no switching to synth doesent eat the rings, and using diesel oil is stupid because its specifically more basic (we're talking PH) than spark ignition oils due to the acidity of the crap left over from diesel that doesnt burn.

lots of other stupid things...sure motorcycles may be hard on their oil, but last time i checked my pickup truck wasnt a motor cycle.

I actually feel slightly dumber after reading this thread....

I run mobil 1. 5w-30 for the winter (spend most of my winter in maine), and 10w-30 the rest of the year.

ps. mobil 1 is $22 for 5 quarts @ walmart (just picked some up an hour ago)

ps. anything with an api logo may mean its API grade SA, which is for cars with engines built in the 30's etc, you need a corresponding api number to the year the engine was built, or a newer api grade. API grads SA has no additives, and will sludge right up in a modern engine.

Georgiadave

Mobil 1 0-30, when I can find it, year round. Most liquid cooled engines are designed for 30 weight oil at operating temperature, which is the same year round. You want something thin on cold start up, and that is the 0 part of the formula.

I agree with Alex about the brain numbing quality of this thread, but joined in the fray anyway.

89pickupsr5

this is why i posted this, i was wondering why everyone told me a different kind. personally i think i'm gonna go with vavoline i've been running thier 10w-30 synthetic tough driving formula in my 94 lumina for the last four years and havn't had a problem yet......any comments?

MMA_Alex

basically i've found that 10w-30 works well down to about 10 degrees. below that I've noticed issues, and spending most of my winter in Maine we definitely see lower than that on a regular basis.