ShawnQ

I'll keep that in mind.

I noticed when I bought the vehicle that there is an exhaust leak somewhere on the drivers side of the engine.

It is audible, and I could see steam coming out of the fenderwell from the leak, but couldn't pinpoint it.

Is the manifold prone to cracking, or is it probably where the two manifolds meet the down pipe?

Who sells the headers and exhaust that everyone recommends?

Thanks,

SQ

miket223

The leak is at the collector, I've never seen these castings crack. I just happen to be putting a rebuilt 3VZ in a 4Runner right now. I'm at a point where the following pictures will be very informative as far as saving time goes. So, here you go.

http://www.ultimatebadass.org/hudson/3VZ/IMG_4019.JPG
http://www.ultimatebadass.org/hudson/3VZ/IMG_4020.JPG
http://www.ultimatebadass.org/hudson/3VZ/IMG_4021.JPG

Those little wood wedges you see in the heads are what needs to be inserted to clear the headbolts for removing the heads. If you don't pull the headbolts away from the block, you may find yourself struggling a long time to get those heads off as a pair. Just remember, this is a whole lot easier than the FSM says it is. It seems like 50% of the crap you're supposed to remove doesn't need to be removed. Notice the injector rails still attached to the manifold, the intake plenum with all the vacuum lines still hooked up, etc, etc. Look over those pics carefully, TONS of shortcuts. Think of it like a Where's Waldo game. With all of these shortcuts you're looking at, this short block will likely be finished in 10 hours total time. There is a Toyota Tech at the stealership that can do 2 of these in a healthy 12 hour day. Anyways, there you go. So now that I have pictures posted, all you people stop pestering me for the "Toyota Technician Secrets". I'm going to start charging for these pictures since I would've paid good money to have them 10+ years ago. Enjoy!

ShawnQ

Looks like fun!

I am having trouble figuring out exactly what you mean about the wood wedges?

I realize that if you don't pull the head bolts away from the head, lifting them off as a pair will be tough. But, what is the wedge doing, holding the bolt up? If so, why not just pull the bolts out?

:pat:

SQ

miket223

Because pulling the bolts out is not possible unless you remove the camshaft. On this particular job, I am not doing anything to the heads beyond a valve adjustment. So, I have no reason to deal with breaking the heads down into 450 small parts. But, since you'll be doing headwork, you can always pass on the wood wedge method and get those cams off to remove the heads.

Bobakazi

What year is it?

ShawnQ

Mine is a 1990.

Bought it off of a fellow member, JReynold, for $1000.00



Mike,

that makes sense now. I've never been inside one of these things so I'm not familiar with them yet. Hopefully I can get started this weekend so I can get my parts ordered early next week. We'll see what happens.

SQ

Bobakazi

Did it ever have the recall done?

ShawnQ

It had the headgasket recall done, but not the steering one. I still need to take care of that one once I get it running right.

SQ

Dieselyota

Shawn, if you re doing the work yourself, take the heads to Duffin Engine service. If not, order a long block from www.citymotorsupply.com They are local and do good work. -Todd

ShawnQ

Dieselyota,

I used to know the son of the Duffin who ran that place...I wonder if he would remember me and help out on pricing I want to say he drove a camaro, but could be wrong...named Scott I think, but again, it's been a few years.

Would you also recommend them for engine assembly if I decide to rebuild it?

Thanks for the info, definitely what I was looking for.

Shawn

Dieselyota

Not really. If you dont know enough about engine assembly, then I would suggest just buying the long block from citymotorsupply. They do good work and are much cheaper than most people out there. I personally bought a 22re from them a few years ago and everything was tip top. For assembling an engine, you need precision measuring equipment that most guys dont have in their toolbox. I would skip the duffin unless you're wanting a blue-printed engine that you'll be assembling yourself. -Todd

Weasy2k

I hope the 4runner thats coming in (our test 4runner) doesnt have any pitting issues....my father (owner) mentioned something about a poor idle for a bit now that we didnt check out until it was too late....when the engine turns over it would suddenly STOP and grind...then it was left at the shop..

ShawnQ

If it suddenly stopped, it is probably doing the same thing as mine.

Mine will start and run FINE...BUT, the #1 cylinder will hydro-lock from coolant. If you pull the plug from #1, pull the coil wire off, crank the engine a few times to blow the coolant out of the cylinder, reinstall the plug and wires, and then turn it over again...it will run fine (obviously billowing steam out of the exhaust from coolant in the engine.)

I don't really think it needs a whole long block. The engine sounds fine, just has an internal coolant leak.

Once I get that far, I'll decide what to do next. We'll see.

Thanks,

SQ

Weasy2k

Thank god...
I gotta get to this quick i dont want any more damage to be done while it sits....jsut sucks when EVERYONES cars break down at the same time