kyle_22r

they came black from the factory, i paint mine ford blue. really makes it easy to find leaks compared to a black block!

4Hummer

Holy Geez. It may not be very fast, or have allot of HP, But its Bright RED.



3 1/3 coats red and 2 light coats clear.
Canadian Tire Dupli High Heat paint. with ceramic

4Hummer

The Piston in the engine has a stamp on it of 0.50 add this to the fact that the engine has been painted blue. has this thing allready been rebuilt ?
The tape messure reads 3 5/8 if you cant make out the pic.

kyle_22r

.50 means it's been punched out half a mm, or about .020 over in standard measurement. definitely rebuildable, as you can get .75 and 1.00 pistons anywhere. definitely a rebuild.

maxpower_hd

If you've done V-8s then this will be a cake walk. These are pretty simple little motors.

That red looks orange on my screen. That takes away a few miles per hour.

How are the holes? The pistons look like they are in good shape from what I can see. You may not need to go bigger if everything is in good shape.

4Hummer

I kinda figured that it was rebuilt and bored out once, as it had a new timming chain and guides, the blue paint, and the cylinders all looked very good.

I'm still going to punch it out a little larger, I need to talk to Ted at engine builder first.

Sorry for the orangish color pic's bad lighting. Ill see if I can get a pic up in the daylight sometime.

Next is to paint the oil pan and remanining brackets, than order the master engine rebuild kit from Ted,

maxpower_hd

I would also recommend the steel guide kit as well. It replaces the plastic one that always goes in these.

4Hummer

So today I went and picked up the 4Runner from buddies farm. Poor truck has been sitting in a field beside a barn since winter when it devoloped the bottom end knock aka: "Clack Clack Clack"

I borrowed my buddies truck, and trailer, and Jeep buddy Owen tagged along with his Yellow chopped XJ so he could winch the Runner onto the trailer.


1 flat tire and 1 dead battery. No problem we hook up the jumper cables to Owens truck, use my OBA system to inflat the flat tire, and talk about how to winch the 4Runner onto the trailer.... Owens at this point cracks a Joke about the "JEEP" winching a Toyota...... : Tire is full at this point so I decide to see if the 4Runner will even start AND SURE ENOUGH.. Vroooooom "Clack Clack Clack" I'll show you JEEP Boy, and I drive the 4Runner onto the Trailer. (Only a Toyota)

PICS

On the trailer.


In the Garage


Veiw threw the Garage Door.... She looks like shes smiling at me....

4Hummer

Figured it was about time for an update.

Engine is just about ready to pull.. Engine mounts and a couple bellhousing bolts and its out (I hope) Next weekend hopefully my boy will be done putting a 20R into his susuki toy, in turn Ill get him to drop off the engine hoist and maybe con him into sticking around for a beer .

Parts are on order from Ted. Ill go into that later.

couple pics.

Stupid wiring harness!!!! Why can't they just make a main disconnect , I swear theres at least 6ft of wire... I re-covered the wire loom with Hot Red shielding which im told will add 2.5 HP.



and Yes you have to pull the upper throttle body off to pull the wire harness, (Which than goes to injectors, sensors, thingy mo-bob, starter, oil sender, shinny thing, tranny, some where over there, xfer case, 02 sensor, this that and a few other things.)



Just an over all view, from a differant angle. You can see the PS pump in the forground, air intake and rad removed, Battery gone ac pump in it's place, a few vacum lines and cables and the 19FT of wire harness.



Im hoping for the UPS guy soon.

maxpower_hd

Can't means don't wanna. LOL!

I was able to disconnect my harness and feed it through the intake manifold. It was a PITA but I didn't have to take the manifold apart. It went in the same way.

4Hummer

Hahaha.

Yeah I looked into that option aswell, But figured it would be faster to remove the upper intake. Besides it will need to be removed anyway to replace all the gaskets with the master Gasket kit I ordered from Ted

maxpower_hd

Gotchya. I pulled my entire head with the intake and exhaust still on it and simply set it aside since it had been rebuilt in the recent past. All I had to rebuild was the lower end.

Otherwise I would have went the same route as you.

Good luck.

4Hummer

Got a Visit from the man in the Brown Suit (UPS guy)

Parts I ordered.

Water Pump
Oil Pump
Timing Chain with Steel back Guide
Timming Chain Cover
Master Gasket/Seal Kit
Head Gasket and Head Bolts

Thursday Night I'm pulling the motor out of my truck and than I will start swaping parts onto the new Block.

I hope I can figure out where all the gasket's and seals Go, Ted wasn't kidding when he said its a "COMPLETE" kit

Pic

maxpower_hd

You will have some duplicates, for example: the water pump comes with a gasket and you also get one in the kit. I think when they put together the kit, some of the items are actually seperate and they simply throw them in with the kit.

As far as identifiying them, it is easier than you would think. Once you have it apart and you start comparing them, they are pretty easy to figure out. I thought the same thing when I got mine.

I got the master engine rebuild kit so it came with even more stuff.

toyaholic

my rebuild has dragged on for way to long. i have learned some really valuable lessons and can't wait to get started on my 2nd rebuild on my 85 22r. i went with engnbldr's kit along with every thing else you got as well as a new cam. i had mine bored 30 over and went with silver paint. i wasn't aware of the 50 extra horses i could gain with simply adding a red r? man i love this site! i am down to the last steps and i have been wondering about the process of adjusting the valves. i have the factory repair manual and all that it mentions is adjusting the first half, warming the engine up and then adjusting the 2nd half, but i am finishing a complete rebuid so where is the cold adjust for all the valves to get it started?

4Hummer

Pulled the engine last thursday and have been busy cleaning parts and preping for paint.




Check out the Mud sitting in the bottom of the bellhousing Should there not be some sort of Grommet or plate over the inspection hole ?

4Hummer

This cleaning stuff is amazing, I think its called citrussal (I get it from my Newfie buddy who is a mechanic at midas and ownes a nice lifted orange toy. Hes kinda hard to understan) But its basically Floor degreaser.

I place the parts in tray , spray em down and than work the cleaner a little with the brush, a few minutes later it all rinses off clean. Removes Oil and carbon buildup, grease, oil, mud, you name it... It's the "seafoam" of engine cleaners.

It even cleaned the dark nasty black splooge off from inside the intake plenum, the exhaust ports even came out fairly clean..



Ill post pics tommorrow of the bottom and top of the head to you can see how clean everything is

4Hummer

Nothings bolted together, Just a mock up to show off a little

I finally decided to paint the intake Ford Grey (Heat paint)

I tried the "Aluminum" first which was bling in a can(Chrome) , than tried the Cast Steel color which I didn't like, So it was either flat black or ford grey

johntrout

Functionally it looks like a good color, as someone said before, easy to see leaks!

subliminaltrips

i used a 1/2 inch drive socket extension the same way. i usually use a breaker bar and bump the starter to pop mine off before i pull em but alot of times you cant do that and they piect of something wedged in the crank and the block works well. or a chainsaw is good if you decide it just wont budge