high idle and chugging
07-04-2006, 08:24 PM
#41
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you aren't adjusting a gap (as i stated in my previous post) you are adjusting the rotational position of the sensor. Please fully read the link on adjustment i sent, and hopefully you will understand what we're talking about.
07-04-2006, 08:38 PM
#43
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Chill out!
Clint,
Be sure to read everything these guys have said very carefully. Also read the TPS link they gave you. NO GAP is being set at all. You will have to loosen your TPS and rotate it with the feeler gauges in place to get the correct resistance. All of this can be found in the TPS link found in the above posts. I've been battling my TPS lately & it can be tedious. You will need the ohm-meter to adjust your TPS. We're not going to have you go buy crap that you don't need. Best of luck! Later....
Be sure to read everything these guys have said very carefully. Also read the TPS link they gave you. NO GAP is being set at all. You will have to loosen your TPS and rotate it with the feeler gauges in place to get the correct resistance. All of this can be found in the TPS link found in the above posts. I've been battling my TPS lately & it can be tedious. You will need the ohm-meter to adjust your TPS. We're not going to have you go buy crap that you don't need. Best of luck! Later....
07-05-2006, 07:05 AM
#44
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you really dont even need a decent ohm meter anyway. Its all magnitudes (ex. 100ohms vs 1000ohms). If you arent planning on using it again, just go buy the cheap ones they sell at sears for $10 or something.
07-05-2006, 07:22 AM
#45
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i am going to get one after work today and i reread the tps adjustment slowly instead of panicking and skimming through it so i believe this is the problem as everyone as said on this site if not then the only way to fix my 4runner is soak it in gas and dry it with a match.
07-05-2006, 04:42 PM
#47
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hello i bought a multimeter now i have read 4crawlers site but i have a few questions, is the ground supposed to be off or on.now when i did the steps for the idle reading and the others 1st reading vta-e2 i had 0.45 at 20k.2nd reading idl-e2 0.03 at 20k with a gap of .57mm.3rd reading idl-e2 0.02 at 20k with a gap of o.85mm.4th reading i had vta-e2 with the throttle wide open 0.16 then back to stationary where it read 0.20.maybe i am using the multimeter wrong i tried my other tps and the readings were similar.when i did the tps idl-e2 adjustment procedure as soon as you rotate the tps ccw the feeler gauge falls out and my ohms do not move at all sorry for the inconvenience i hope someone can correct my errors thank you
07-05-2006, 05:48 PM
#48
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your not opening the throttle body you have to loosen the 2 screws on the tps and rotate the tps untill you loose resistance as stated in 4 crawlers site.
07-05-2006, 07:07 PM
#49
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so the clips on the inside of the tps are not touching the metal tabs on the inside of the throttle body thank you for your response toyotaoffroad91.
07-05-2006, 07:38 PM
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what i am saying is doesnt the tps plastic tabs have to be meshed together with the metal tabs from the throttle body when you put the screws in
07-05-2006, 08:17 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by clint
what i am saying is doesnt the tps plastic tabs have to be meshed together with the metal tabs from the throttle body when you put the screws in
Yes they do. The only way I know to tell you is to reread the 4crawler writeup until it makes sense. That is what I used because the haynes manual was not exactly clear (to me). Keep reading that till it makes sense and you will be adjusting it like a champ.
07-06-2006, 06:14 PM
#54
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well i fixed it and it runs awsome here was the problem i was putting the tps on the wrong side of the metal clips, i know you guys asked if i had it on right and i thought i did next time dont think just do.i really appreciate everyones contributions i oh one more thing (sorry) but when i accelerate i get the taptaptap i think it is the valves are these is to adjust or can i leave it or will it do damage thank you i love my 4runner again
07-06-2006, 06:27 PM
#56
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oh one more thing if you guys would have seen me workin on this the past week you would have shaken your head and said what a gong show, thank you.
07-07-2006, 06:12 AM
#57
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go ahead and adjust the valves. To get the cover off you need a 12mm socket. To actually adjust the valves you need a flat feeler guage, flathead screwdriver, and a 12mm wrench
edit: i forgot the 19mm to turn the engine over by hand
edit: i forgot the 19mm to turn the engine over by hand
Last edited by MMA_Alex; 07-07-2006 at 06:13 AM.
07-07-2006, 07:08 AM
#59
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i adjusted my timing with my timing light and set it to 5 btdc with it shortened so far as i know that is the correct way to set it and i checked the vaves and adjusted them with feeler gauges i am sure i did that right with the engine warm and gap .2mm on the ignition side and .3mm on the exhaust side put the valve cover back on and still had the taptaptap so maybe i did something wrong please correct me if i did thank you.
07-07-2006, 08:02 AM
#60
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I adjusted mine to spec and have just a minor tapping that pretty much disapears when warm. I posted a question on this last week, and I was told that some people like to run the exhaust valves a little tighter that the .012" spec, and that that seems to quiet them down.
