Which Headers for a 3.0L
#21
Registered User
if the set from summit comes with ALL the pipes up to the Cat i'll certainly look into that, plus a high flow cat and maybe the doug thorley cat back ( if I can find it ) nice little exhaust i'll have going for my 3.0 4runner, i'd say
#22
Registered User
North west off road makes headers for the 3.0. I would google them. I checked them out before I bought mine from Downey. They were to be second best to downey by reviews. but there is such a thing as a cheap mans header which will get rid of your factory y-pipe which is where they say you loose your h.p.
I like LCE, but them being $300 more is what is hurting....
#23
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Im gonna go with a full doug thorley exhaust with a magnaflow high flow cat. anyone have any objections to this? will I notice alot of power gain? ( I know its a 3vz-e so I cant expect much ) but all in all... is it noticeable?
#24
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I don't have the headers, but I have a Magnaflow direct-fit cat and I like it very much. Well made, of a high grade of stainless, and it has very good flow yet it is a real cat designed to pass emissions and last years.
#25
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I called NWOR and the person on the phone had the attitude that he didn't want to deal with me. Very rude and short, he also said that it was at least a 3 month wait for the headers and possibly another 2 month wait for the cross over pipe. If I am spending close to $1k for headers, I really don't feel like waiting 3-5 months.
I like LCE, but them being $300 more is what is hurting....
I like LCE, but them being $300 more is what is hurting....
I agree the price is steep. But I have seen these headers in person. They are some of the nicest peices I have ever seen!
The quality is very high, and everything fits!
#26
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Heh, if they had a payment plan where I could pay them whatever amount within the 5+ months it takes them to make them I would have gotten them already!
#27
Registered User
you said the price is steep on the NWOR headers? and yeah, I think im gonna go with the cat back as well. D.T Headers and cat back with a high flow magnaflow cat. heres another thing... how does everyone feel about the k&n intake on the 3vz-e?
#28
Registered User
Are you going to be wheeling at all? It's an open intake on the one end completely useless if you go off roading. IMHO, just a complete waste of $200+ when you can do the ISR mod and silencer removal and get similar results.
#29
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off roading maybe once an awhile. it is my DD so i tend to take care of it. i've burried the truck in mud before. but thats a one time thing. I dont think the ISR mod will pass smog here in california.
#30
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if you like the mud i would recommend a snorkle instead of an aftrermarket intake. A K&N replacement filter is your best bet in california. I dont know what you guys like out there or what you can have and cant but I have an open flow cat and a dual 40 series flowmaster. Now with the headers and that it has a great smooth tone. Also I do have a K&N filter for the 3.0 if you would like to have it. Just ask for you to pay for the shipping to get it out there to you.
#31
Registered User
I have had a K&N on mine since '96. I installed it before the cat-back and it did absolutely nothing for me except make more noise. Whether it helps when the exhaust side has been opened up, I don't know. I will say I like the smooth plastic air hose that replaces the strange stock setup. There is some evidence the K&N media lets some fine dust through; however it can't be too bad. When I changed my head gaskets in '01 at 218k miles (about 100k miles after installing the K&N and after considerable time on New Mexico's dirt roads) the rings and cyl walls were fine and the cross-hatching still visible on all cyl walls. Now at 281k miles it still has good compression.
#32
Registered User
Smog rules here are extremely anal. ISR mods are illegal. lol im attempting to really open my little 3vz-e up... full exhaust / intake. should do just fine for what im trying to do. I have a question though... I went out to my truck the other night. popped the hood and saw anti-freeze leaking from the top of my radiator? there is 4 really fine cracks/holes in the top of it. when I rev past 3k each one of those cracks push out like a drop of anti-freeze... simple fix? just replace the radiator? should I go stock or go expensive and buy something else?
#33
Registered User
Do you have extended life coolant in there? Those are organic acid based and are known to corrode the old-style copper/brass/lead radiators and heater cores. I recommend switching back to Toyota Red if you dont have that in there now. But be sure to flush the current coolant out thoroughly, including out of the heater core. Use only distilled water to mix 50/50 with the toyota red.
#34
Registered User
I'll go get some pictures of what exactly is going on and what it looks like. they'll be crappy cell phone pictures, though. so dont expect the greatest quality... i'll mark where the damage is.
#35
Registered User
alrighty... heres what I got.
Heres a picture of the full radiator. im sure you can see some damage on it from this view.
This a top picture. a little bit better view of the damage. the red spots are where the anti freeze is coming out.
Right side of the radiator, near the cap.
left side of the radiator.
Is what you said is going on taking place in this situation?
Heres a picture of the full radiator. im sure you can see some damage on it from this view.
This a top picture. a little bit better view of the damage. the red spots are where the anti freeze is coming out.
Right side of the radiator, near the cap.
left side of the radiator.
Is what you said is going on taking place in this situation?
#36
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Smog rules here are extremely anal. ISR mods are illegal. lol im attempting to really open my little 3vz-e up... full exhaust / intake. should do just fine for what im trying to do. I have a question though... I went out to my truck the other night. popped the hood and saw anti-freeze leaking from the top of my radiator? there is 4 really fine cracks/holes in the top of it. when I rev past 3k each one of those cracks push out like a drop of anti-freeze... simple fix? just replace the radiator? should I go stock or go expensive and buy something else?
Oh, and I had no problem passing Cali smog.
Aaaaand here is a link to the intake: http://www.sbfilters.com/products/pr...number=75-9006
Last edited by NYChopshop; 08-29-2009 at 02:20 PM.
#37
Registered User
Looks like it may have corroded from the outside in, which is better than death by acidic coolant . A good radiator shop may be able to repair that, but radiator shops aren't as easy to find as they used to be. Otherwise you can replace it, but if yours has an integral tranny cooler, watch that the replacement does also.
Get some pH testing paper from a drug store and if the coolant is below 7.1, change it.
Get some pH testing paper from a drug store and if the coolant is below 7.1, change it.
#38
Registered User
I might just replace it. Wont hurt right? lol do you prefer I go OEM? or maybe an LC engineering aluminum radiator? or something along those lines? If this is a must fix, I'll focus on getting that done first, before exhaust. even though i'd rather drop my money into something a bit more exciting than a radiator
#39
Registered User
Ouch. OEM even from 1sttoyotaparts will run you 500 bucks. autohausaz.com sells a nice looking OEM type (brass/copper) for 210. Thats the one I'd prolly go for if I couldn't get mine repaired.
Yeah, on a 3vze I'd always take care of the cooling system first, but you're right, not much sex appeal in a radiator Maybe if you got some blue neon lights for it...
Yeah, on a 3vze I'd always take care of the cooling system first, but you're right, not much sex appeal in a radiator Maybe if you got some blue neon lights for it...
#40
Registered User
i've only ever had ONE over heating problem... thats when I got stuck in a hole and had mud caked everywhere... I was on my way to a pressure washer and the temp gauge went out of control. I was only 1-2 minutes from the car wash when it went loco. so I just took it easy and drove it there... sprayed all the mud off and it was perfectly fine. LC engineering radiator is 6-7 hundred dollars :/ the reason im wanting to do the air intake and full exhaust is to open it up and release all that heat hah