keithguts

Ok , I have a 1995 4runner with an auto 3.0. My question is, what is the difference of using regular oil or full synthetic oil. Is it just better because you get the extra 2-3K miles between changes?

I was also told that full synthetic oil could cause leaks as wee. Is this true, and if so, why?

I'm now using GTX High Milage 10W40 with a napa Gold filter. Any help in my question would be great as I'm thinking of going over to full synthetic, but afraid of the leak problem.

bob200587

I posted an answer to some of this on my thread about oil that you posted on earlier.

keithguts

Thanks for the info...............

bob200587

I just bought some synthetic blend, and I'm going to try it and see if it leaks and how bad. If I remember i'll make a note and report my results.

mkiidrifter

if you have any high mileage car synthetics are no good. ive personally never liked the idea... it seems to "eat up" your seals... but its just thinner oil...

keithguts

I'm not really sure of the miles on my rig. It says 140K, but I did do a compleat top end on it about 10k miles ago. I just don't no at this point what to do as I do-not have any leaks at this point. The only reason I would go to full synthetic oil, is if it was better for the rig, but at this point, I don't no.

bob200587

the reason I'm switching is because I found a high mileage synth blend. It has the same additional detergents and conditioners but is also semi-synth.

keithguts

Ya, I seen this semi-synth. stuff myself. Does this meam it is only part synth., and is it made for High M. rigs?

Also, what brand did you find?

kevinkal

I switched my 3VZ-E to full syn Mobil 1, 10w-30 after 120K miles of regualr organic oil. It gave me some peace of mind after driving more than 3K between oil changes. I did not get any leaks from this. I noticed only a small increase in oil burn rate, but not bad. Roughly 1 qt every 2k miles instead of 1 qt every 2.5K miles.

Also, being in the middle of a head gasket job now at 211K miles, the honing is fully visible with no worn spots on all cylinders. The cams looks very good and the machinist doing my valves commented that the cam bearings look new as well.

keithguts

Is it a known thing for 3.0's to use oil?

MudHippy

Yes, in the 1 quart range every 3k is about average. BURN not use, carefull there I might get ya for that. Next time.

So yeah, I run full synth in my 3.0. From what I was told it was that way from the first owner. I'm @ around 220k. Burns about the average. Things appear bright, shiny, and new when I open the valve covers. And I haven't noticed any leaks that weren't from expected seal wear on a vehicle of it's age. Haven't had any reason to have the heads off to see the cylinder walls, but I bet they're in great shape, too. I'm a firm believer in the stuff, and if I'd bought my truck w/o synth in it, that would have been the FIRST thing I did when I got it home.

weiln

Regardless of age, I always swap my vehicles to full synthetic. From what I've read, synthetic-blend is a waste of money, so I don't use it. I've had several vehicles, and none have ever started leaking after the swap to full synthetic.

Most recent is my 4Runner, swapped to full synthetic w/ Mobil 1 filter M1-209 @ 90K miles. No problems, no leaks, nothing.

YMMV.

bob200587

The oil I got is Valvoline Max Live Synthetic blend. I just thought it was worth a try. The price was about the same as the conventional....maybe I'll notice a difference.

TNRabbit

Do your engine a favor & switch to full synthetic. Disregard claims that it is "thinner"...it's the same weight as the equivalent weight petroleum oil (10w-30 in either is the same weight). I just finished a full rebuild & the inside of my cylinders was LIKE NEW with 218,000 miles on the engine. I've used full synthetic since I bought it in 2000 with 92,000 miles on the odometer.

tc

www.bobistheoilguy.com

You'll go blind on all the info

mkiidrifter

engines have lasted before on regular oil...they will last now. why risk having syn open up high mileage gaskets? sure if you've just done a rebuild its good and healthy motor, go for it, its you preference... i will be running just reg penzoil 10/30 in my supra(full rebuild with some goodies haha)

if you wanna go syn, ive heard amsoil has great stuff. try it out...maybe ill hop on another forum and dig up an article that was brought up and introduce you guys to it later.

ovrrdrive

Myths about synthetic oil...

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ics/Myths.aspx
http://www.whatprice.co.uk/car/synthetic-oil.html


I use Mobil1 full synth in my 4runner because it is such an expensive truck, and in my dirt bikes because of the same, but my 22re gets Valvoline 10w-40 every 3k and I'm positive that is plenty of protection for it...

maxpower_hd

The main problem I have with synthetics is the price. In my opinion, they are not usually worth the extra cost, in some cases 3 or 4 times as much as conventional oils.

Most of the "mythbuster" and "why use synthetic" articles are written by the very same oil companies that manufacture the oils (or their marketing firms) and want you to buy them because they make more money on them. (NOTE: I took a couple of marketing classes in college so I am a little sensitive to anything a marketing entity tells me. There are ALWAYS ulterior motives.)

I've read some articles from independent sources as well and they do confirm that the synthetic oils offer some benefits in high performance race engines that operate at extremely high temperatures. However, from all that I've read, it seems there is little benefit given the cost of the oils for normal engines operating at normal temperatures.

I'm not saying synthetics are bad. I just haven't been convinced that they are so much better than conventional oils for my 1993 truck that I would be swayed to change from the 3000 mile dino oil changes I've been doing for the last 22 or so years without incident.

Just my opinion.

Rocketman

IMHO...

Much of the BAD hype about synthetics is just that... HYPE. I have used Mobil 1 on high mileage Jeep 4.0's for a long time. If the cleaning action of the oil opens up leaks in gaskets, they needed to be replaced. The older oil was just hiding potential problems. Almost all FLEET vehicles, the Government and Military and new vehicles all spec synthetic. Full synthetic, not blends are a better oil, Period. they handle heat better, don't brake down as easily, many advantages other than a couple extra thousand miles.

First opportunity on my now 1 week old 86 PU 22R, it's getting Mobil 1, and Royal Purple throughout.

Cost is not an issue for me, not the relatively minor cost difference.

I'd also never use a Fram oil filter. I'd rather pay for a Mobil or K&N instead of the cardboard junk.

I've seen so many people, spend $$$$$$$$ on lift kits, engine and body mods but then complain about a couple extra bucks a quart for oil. These are the same guys I see broken on the trail early in the day, because their fancy lifted bling'd rigs die because of a lack of simple automotive maintenance.

Wait till Mobil 1 goes on sale at Advance or other in the gallon jugs.

X-AWDriver

Synthetic is ideal in high stress motors which I count off roading as high stress but on a DD synthetic might be overkill except to extend change intervals. Every vehicle I've owned has been one that I put through hell and synthetic makes me feel more secure putting them through hell.

Wal-Mart sells the 5qt jugs for about $22 and that is a good price.