Shaun Crystal Gomban

You need a new radiator.

jbtvt

If you're referring to a "stop-leak" product you will probably be better off removing that as well. These systems run best (and Toyota's newer ones were specifically designed) for only distilled water and low silicate red coolant. It was probably running the green that caused your original issue, and who knows what they put in any of the stop leak products - ST didn't run it by Toyota for approval though. I would also worry about it clogging passageways.

I just replaced most of the cooling system in my 90 and flushed it twice with "super heavy duty" radiator flush, an EDTA based demineralizer. It's amazing what came out of it, even after changing the radiator. I would recommend using a course of that and refilling with red coolant.

Contra472

I did replace the radiator with a new one and seems to be running fine so far (75 miles so far)

I didn't use a stop leak product. I meant I filled up the radiator with Walmarts brand of antifreeze/coolant called super tech, it's green and only $9, 50:50 with distilled water.

I only cheaped out on this because I thought my cooling system would not solve the problem, but it seemed like it did.

I will replace with OEM orange coolant in the near future.

millball

Orange is not correct either. Orange usually means Dex-Cool. Originated by GM

The right stuff is 'Toyota red'

Contra472

Daily drove it for 600 miles. Drove excellent, with no overheating issues at all!
However, my coolant reservoir steadily dropped half an inch over those miles....

Looked for leaks. I see coolant pooling near the dip stick. Traced it up to the head......NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!


I slowly tore the head off over the last week.

Strangely.....the head gasket looks fine?



I found some strange writing on the block. It says 85 up arrow.....-0.020?
Does that mean the block got shaved 0.020? Is that good or bad?



My plan was to have the head milled, replace head gasket/bolts, upgrade to metal timing chain, and reseal oil pan (leaking).

If the block/head was shaved previously, and I shave the head AGAIN, will I risk increasing compression too much and blowing it again?

I don't know why the PO took the time to shave the block, but didn't replace a $8 thermostat which caused it to overheat/blow.

Should I just buy a new head? I kinda want to, but am afraid of removing the studs from the old head.

Thanks guys!

BTW, I took lots of pictures. If I'm successful, I want to contribute by making a Head Gasket/Timing chain Pictorial Adaptation of the Factory service manual. Kinda like 92 Toy.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

The machinist can tell you if the head been cut. Worst case you need a special cam gear from LCE.

Contra472

Thanks skypilot.

Took it to the machine shop today Head is warped. I didn't want to risk milling it more and then having to shim it.... Or messs with the timing.

Sooooo.... I ordered a new complete head from eBay.... Yes, I know engine builder is the cat's meow, but this ebay one said it's cast in Canada.

bicklebok

Thanks for keeping us up to date on your progess. You will get it running great soon!

Contra472

Thanks for the encouragement! I will keep this updated regardless of fail/success

Received my OEM head gasket today....and it's bent/creased in several places around the timing cover part only....other than that, it looks fine.

Sucks, but I guess I'll run it and hope for the best?

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I would press on the front part with an iron or some other flat thing. Also use that copper spray adhesive on it just before installation. Also be sure to use the 65ft lb torque spec for the head bolts, and chase the threads first.

Janos01

First off nice truck you have there. Regarding parts, O'Reily's is very Yota friendly, if they dont have something in stock they will order it and have it the next day most times. When possible, switch to the Toyota red stuff as alot of the green stuff will corrode the engine over time.

In all, best of luck with your build/repairs.

Contra472

Good tip Sky Pilot. I'll hit it with my clothes iron on low. Maybe Hi-tack. I'm planning 62ft/lbs + new bolts. With my luck, I'll break the bolt at 65.

O'reilly is actually my go to place (when I need something right away) since it's closest. However, online still can't be beat since generally no sales tax/free shipping/lower prices. Imma switch to Zerex Asian.

Got my ebay head in today. Looks nice, but I actually don't know what I'm looking at to determine quality

Looked everywhere for "MADE IN CANADA", but alas, all I could find was DNJ??? Gosh, hope me cheaping out doesn't come back and bite me in my ass.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Check your valve seat pressure before you go any further. It should be no more than 90 pounds. If its greater it needs to be overhauled to get the seat pressure in spec or else kiss your camshaft goodbye. Also check and see if the valve heads stick out into the chamber area, another way to tell seat pressure is excessive. Also check head for flatness just in case it needs to cut.

Judging by looks & price its chinese. I really do hope it works for you.

I hope you got a good head, I really do. I went the other route and had my known toyota heads redone even though enginbdlr says they are problem after the beating I gave them.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

DNJ is Engbldr. I am guessing you bought a head off of him thru ebay and may have not noticed it. Here is what his packaging looks like to maybe help identify your head. I could be wrong but that who I am thinking you got the head from.

Engbldr rebuild kit.

Odin

DNJ Engine Components http://www.enginecomponents.com/

Headquarters
8960 Lurline Avenue
Chatsworth, CA 91311

jbtvt

Rockauto sells a lot of the DNJ stuff too, but if Engnbldr does it's probably decent. Highly doubt it's made in Canada though. Should tell you where it's made on the packaging it was shipped with somewhere if you're concerned about it.

Didn't want to go for the refurbished OEM heads on Ebay for $290? I almost did, wish I had.

pepper29

Toyota Red coolant plus distilled water...about $1.00 per gal

Mahogany

Your truck is in a lot better shape than mine (1986 SR5 Xtra cab 22RE), body-wise...I'm looking at a new bed, total repaint, chasing surface rust below, etc. I had an engine rebuild at 179K miles (blown head gasket)...unfortunately only 35K later the oil pan needs a new gasket. Still, I've had this truck for 25 years so I'm committed to fixing everything & driving it for another 25...

Contra472

Been on Vacay, but time to get back at it!

Thanks skypilot. I don't have any of the tools to check that kind of stuff, so I think I'm just going to run it. It comes with a 3 year unlimited miles warranty, so hopefully, I'll be okay.

It probably is Chinese though

It wasn't Engblder unfortunately. It was some guys named "machine shop pros", it did ship from Chatsworth though, which is where DNJ is located. (Thanks Odin!)

I'm thinking I should have went for that too...

Glad I'm not alone The rust stuff still bothers me, but I'm determined to fix it. I pulled by oil pan too. Actually wasn't too bad dropping the diff. Good luck man, I have tons of pics of the oil pan removal if you want any help.

Contra472

I've been cleaning my block surface for 2 hours a night for a week now. Pretty frustrated. 15+ Razor blades and chemicals. Progressed from brake cleaner and gasket remover all the way to MEK. I probably have cancer by now.

I have read every thread on the internet about cleaning blocks. I know there is a big debate on using ScotchBrite/3M Roloc/Bristle Wheels taking too much off and Aluminum Oxide getting in the engine and destroying the bearings and bores.

Which is why I've stuck with razors and poisons, but with each day, and each breath of Acetone fumes, I'm seriously consider gambling with the Bristle Wheel.

For the most part, the deck is smooth. But there are spots next to the coolant jackets on the exhaust side. Residue has fused there, and I've barely made any progress even scraping it 1000+ times.

Those residue spots can be felt with a naked finger, as a very slight unevenness.

I don't think I'll make anymore progress with razors/solvents.

Do you guys think it's okay to run the head gasket as is? OEM
Or should I gamble with the discs? I know I can always vacuum the grit, but is that enough? What about the coolant passages, I can't vacuum from there.

Thanks guys!

The discoloration is heavy stains.