Fog Light wiring
#21
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iTrader: (1)
No problem! Yeah some of the descriptions are a little different than I expected so I can see how you had trouble finding them. If you are planning on installing them on the bumper, one of the links I posted earlier has a great step-by-step writeup so be sure to check that out. Good luck and keep us updated!
#22
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Thread Starter
Soo wiring harness came in just waiting on bumper to come in n get lights mounted up, may try n wire it up while I have time. Starter started giving the click click run so had to replace contacts n get it going before I can start wiring gonna try n get the starter back in tommorrow
#23
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iTrader: (5)
Hey man, you'll get it no problem after some careful planning, lol. I'm not the Electrical Guru myself, so I just did a bunch of research and then did this.... (first permalink is the stuff I started getting, then the next page is my wiring of stuff to the kick panel fuse block, with add-a-line plug, switch mounting, etc..... hope some of it's helpful. Just read back or forward a lil from these posts)...Course, mine are 150W 8" DC Halogens.... torture lights, hahaha. Point of mentioning that is, they take a bit more power, so it's better to use bigger wire like I did when/where needed....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51598468
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51599333
Best wishes, Cred,
Mark
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51598468
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51599333
Best wishes, Cred,
Mark
#24
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Thread Starter
Chef I've been reading your build thread love what your doing with ur truck I've read through abouT half of it lol all 70 somethin pages but it looks sweet, I'm heading to pull a part tommorrow to maybe pick up a few things then get to wiring this harness after I put in my fresh rebuilt starter
#25
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Thread Starter
Hey chef I was looking through your wiring experience, and was wondering wered you get that switch that thing looks killer. The switch I haves just a illuminated push button on n off
#27
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Thread Starter
Huh I'll have to make a parts run then haha, I'll have to look in my truck n see were to mount a switch like that. Maybe were the factory clock would be
#28
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iTrader: (5)
4Ever4Running is correct, .... Pep Boys, 8$ at 50% off? Can't remember, wasn't much. The reason I preferred/chose this switch over many others?>>> You can't BUMP IT with your knee, WHATEVER, and have the large watt bulbs lighting your covers on fire while cruising down the road. It has to be flipped open to turn on, and when you close that flip-door...it automatically turns it off. Also;(I have it wired to ignition fuse in Kick panel, using an 'Add-a-Fuse', in driver side.... This way it has to be KEY ON to work..... That's one safety feature to run for sure, ..don't just run it always hot, USE A RELAY like you're doing, and a switch, heat shrink and solder everything you CAN, .....you'll be good to go.)
#29
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iTrader: (5)
PS> If you look in the pics on the permalink I provided.... You'll see two punch out pieces in the Radio Bezel that I popped mine into. I had to file it down a TINY bit, but it fit pretty much right in where I removed that lil plastic punch out(used the one on the right, just below the lighter, I believe).
#30
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Thread Starter
Ohh I knew I was supposed to run one wire from the switch but the diagram that came with my harness said wire it to park in kick panel? That confused me, ignition fuse makes sense. Yea there's a punch out peice right under my hazard lights I'm gonna get a switch like that n put it in, hopefully this week get my bumper back on get lights mounted on it thanks to the link 4running gave me
#31
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iTrader: (5)
Hey, ....another thing I wanted was a switch W/OUT a light.... But, they make cool ones like mine that have kinda a clear cover and a light around the switch, LED, i guess.... that just means you have to run an extra wire there. My switch you saw is 2 lead, and the lighted ones are 3, k?
Can't wait to see your sweet rig all lit up, man!
Can't wait to see your sweet rig all lit up, man!
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well I went n got my switch it's like yours, how did you wire yours to your ignition? The way I guess I was gonna do it was jus run power from switch to relay n then ground is that right?
#33
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iTrader: (1)
Ohh I knew I was supposed to run one wire from the switch but the diagram that came with my harness said wire it to park in kick panel? That confused me, ignition fuse makes sense. Yea there's a punch out peice right under my hazard lights I'm gonna get a switch like that n put it in, hopefully this week get my bumper back on get lights mounted on it thanks to the link 4running gave me
#34
Registered User
Thread Starter
I ordered my Piaa covers tonight, dropped the truck off today to get bracket fixed n bumper on then Friday get it back n get my lights on hopefully Saturday. Finally comin together!
#35
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iTrader: (5)
Hey man, good to hear, .....This is where I explained some of the switch stuff.... (keep in mind, at this post, I couldn't figure out why they wouldn't light up, loll...... If you look at the 'add-a-fuse' holder that I added in the kick panel... you'll see I FORGOT THE SECOND FUSE, ....which completes the circuit! hahahaha. dERRRRR! Anyway, .... as I explain there, ....the Off side of the switch got wired to that jack in to the Ignition Fuse in the kick panel fuse panel.....then the ON went to the 86 Pin on the relay. ....Here's the link, hope it helps, and read on from there or back, I'm sure all you need is there.....maybe, hahaha. ..........
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51599333
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51599333
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Okay soo I got everything wired up n lights on. Like last Wednesday, but it's been crazy around her guys with power out in Alabama from all these tornados going through watched one that leveled a couple cities over go right over the house. Been crazy busy at the industrial store I work at we've been selling chain saws and chains and generators and everything else. The yotas been working hard volunteering with cleanup and recovery and helping my dad set up shelters. It's been hauling saws water gas cans generators everything, pulled a couple huge trees and trucks out. But it's been bad here
#38
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iTrader: (1)
Okay soo I got everything wired up n lights on. Like last Wednesday, but it's been crazy around her guys with power out in Alabama from all these tornados going through watched one that leveled a couple cities over go right over the house. Been crazy busy at the industrial store I work at we've been selling chain saws and chains and generators and everything else. The yotas been working hard volunteering with cleanup and recovery and helping my dad set up shelters. It's been hauling saws water gas cans generators everything, pulled a couple huge trees and trucks out. But it's been bad here
#39
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iTrader: (5)
YES, ....I'm so glad you're ok! Hope all you love are safe, as well, man!
Far as the pics, ..he's right ^^^ lol. No reason not to get a photobucket account. It's really great for reference, when on someone elses computer, etc.
Anyway, congratz, now let's see!!!! lol.
Far as the pics, ..he's right ^^^ lol. No reason not to get a photobucket account. It's really great for reference, when on someone elses computer, etc.
Anyway, congratz, now let's see!!!! lol.
#40
Registered User
To make it simple,
The relay is a switch. But the relay switch can pass a bunch more power than a little dash switch.
So your dash switch will turn on the relay switch, which will pass much more power through to the lamps allowing you to get full use from the high output bulbs.
So high battery voltage/amps will travel to the relay and wait until signaled to turn on by the dash switch. Then the good juice will be sent to the lamps.
If you were able to pass the power a relay can handle through a little dash switch, something will get melted.
Mount your relays close to the lamps, that way you will have less voltage drop.
A simple relay diagram as posted earlier is all you need.
The relay is a switch. But the relay switch can pass a bunch more power than a little dash switch.
So your dash switch will turn on the relay switch, which will pass much more power through to the lamps allowing you to get full use from the high output bulbs.
So high battery voltage/amps will travel to the relay and wait until signaled to turn on by the dash switch. Then the good juice will be sent to the lamps.
If you were able to pass the power a relay can handle through a little dash switch, something will get melted.
Mount your relays close to the lamps, that way you will have less voltage drop.
A simple relay diagram as posted earlier is all you need.