YotaTech Forums  

Go Back   YotaTech Forums > Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Welcome to Yotatech!
Welcome to Yotatech,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-05-2009, 04:51 PM   #21
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 590
You read sarcasm well. You should get a job doing it.
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!
__________________
1993 4Runner SR5 3.oh 5speed 232k+ miles. Mostly for the trails and beach. Mods so far: Thorley headers, 4.30 gears, Rancho 5way shocks, AISIN hubs, LockRight rear locker, no sway bars.....32x11.50 BFG M/T's on 15x8 Cragar Soft8's.
Justinlhc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 05:47 PM   #22
Banned
Vendor Sales Rating: (-1)
 
waskillywabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 0
Removed lspv:
Click the image to open in full size.

Rear discs:
Click the image to open in full size.

Added mpv:
Click the image to open in full size.

Brakes work much better with rear discs (full floater rear) and mpv adjusted properly.

waskillywabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 06:12 PM   #23
RMA
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
RMA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Jose ,Ca
Posts: 2,505
Looks good Wabbit , I wish I had the time to do disc brakes .Welcome Back Abe.
__________________
'89 2wd X-tracab,W55,22re,My DD
'94 SR5 4Runner 4x4,A340H, 3VZE,Alpine deck,Wifes DD
'88 SR5 4runner ,A341E,1UZ-FE,kenwoodVZ907,
XRC8, HM Roof rack.33x10.50,15 KM2 1" HM body lift, BJ spacers ,CB, rear disc ,lockright rear, Truetrac front,HM IFS truss,HM sliders,HM rear bumper,HM crossmember,CO2,2 batts,softopper.
My swap thread
http://www.yotatech.com/f161/1uz-fe-...0-3vze-185324/
RMA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 06:53 PM   #24
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
abecedarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,671
Quote:
Originally Posted by waskillywabbit View Post
Removed lspv:
Click the image to open in full size.
... >snip<
What did you do with that brake line hanging? That would be the one that tee's into the right front brake, no? How did you plug and remove it since it doesn't show in the later photos?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RMA View Post
Looks good Wabbit , I wish I had the time to do disc brakes .Welcome Back Abe.
I agree- it does look good. To bad there's little explanation behind the photos so others can do it properly. And thanks for the W/B.
__________________
Proud member of Yotatech's 12000+ post club.


Last edited by abecedarian; 05-05-2009 at 06:54 PM.
abecedarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 07:00 PM   #25
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (3)
 
BigBluePile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oak Harbor, WA
Posts: 14,428
Send a message via MSN to BigBluePile
Well, all I remember when I did my rear disc kit was replumb the lines up front by the passenger front wheel well and out back by the lspv there by rendering in inop. Then plumb in the proportion valve by the master cylinder like Wab. It's been a LONG time since I did it.
__________________
Logan
aka: BBP
Kiss my IFS.........good bye!
RB4R-VP.
'86 4Runner SR5 TRD 5VZ-FE
...slightly modified from OEM...

PACK IN, PACK OUT

'06 4Runner Sport 270/65R17 BFG AT's
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiyobrown View Post
funny, new parts get mentioned first, wife who has been gone mentioned second. Priorities, priorities. I like where your head is at.
BigBluePile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 07:02 PM   #26
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 590
I used a M10x1.0 bolt with a nut to plug the tee. I tightened the nut just to make sure it doesn't come loose. I left the line. It looked like alot of work to remove and I didn't see any need to remove it.
__________________
1993 4Runner SR5 3.oh 5speed 232k+ miles. Mostly for the trails and beach. Mods so far: Thorley headers, 4.30 gears, Rancho 5way shocks, AISIN hubs, LockRight rear locker, no sway bars.....32x11.50 BFG M/T's on 15x8 Cragar Soft8's.
Justinlhc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 07:11 PM   #27
Banned
Vendor Sales Rating: (-1)
 
waskillywabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by abecedarian View Post
What did you do with that brake line hanging? That would be the one that tee's into the right front brake, no? How did you plug and remove it since it doesn't show in the later photos?

I agree- it does look good. To bad there's little explanation behind the photos so others can do it properly. And thanks for the W/B.
In this photo I cut it and temp crimped it. I later removed the 10mm fitting and soldered up the hole in the plug and made it into a plug.
Click the image to open in full size.

waskillywabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 07:15 PM   #28
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
abecedarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,671
Quote:
Originally Posted by waskillywabbit View Post
In this photo I cut it and temp crimped it. I later removed the 10mm fitting and soldered up the hole in the plug and made it into a plug.
Click the image to open in full size.

I don't see what you're talking about.
That looks like from the front / right wheel but I don't see the crimp.
__________________
Proud member of Yotatech's 12000+ post club.


Last edited by abecedarian; 05-05-2009 at 07:16 PM.
abecedarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 07:22 PM   #29
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (3)
 
BigBluePile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oak Harbor, WA
Posts: 14,428
Send a message via MSN to BigBluePile
If you look between the left 90 degree fitting and the right "T" fitting you can see it. The left side of the "T" has the crimp thingy.

Is that right Wab?
__________________
Logan
aka: BBP
Kiss my IFS.........good bye!
RB4R-VP.
'86 4Runner SR5 TRD 5VZ-FE
...slightly modified from OEM...

PACK IN, PACK OUT

'06 4Runner Sport 270/65R17 BFG AT's
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiyobrown View Post
funny, new parts get mentioned first, wife who has been gone mentioned second. Priorities, priorities. I like where your head is at.
BigBluePile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 07:26 PM   #30
Banned
Vendor Sales Rating: (-1)
 
waskillywabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by abecedarian View Post
I don't see what you're talking about.
That looks like from the front / right wheel but I don't see the crimp.
Up from N in Red November at 11 oclock the line coming out of the tee at 9 oclock is crimped about an inch from the fitting.

waskillywabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2009, 07:28 PM   #31
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
abecedarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,671
ahh... I see it now. looks like it's laying on top of the other line. But I see they're both crimped.
my apologies.
__________________
Proud member of Yotatech's 12000+ post club.

abecedarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2009, 12:40 PM   #32
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Flash319's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Barrie, Ontario CANADA
Posts: 1,581
Quote:
Originally Posted by abecedarian View Post
say you've got a pressure source of 1600 PSI and you want to be able to limit it to 1400 PSI... if you have a spring on a valve that applies 400 PSI, and the preload on that spring is adjustable, you can turn in the adjuster so that the 1600 of the fluid fed back into a valve that when the 400 of the spring is added to is enough to cut off the fluid supply until the fluid pressure drops below a certain value.

Ohh I see so it backfeeds onto the spring to cause less flow. But once the system equalizes how does the pressure drop?

While adding pressure you can limit the flow which causes a pressure drop but once the flow stops how do you get rid of the pressure? I can see how it works on gas and hydraulics that are moving but in a brake system the flow becomes stable. In a closed pressure system isn't all the pressure the same unless you have flow somewhere?

I must be missing something or putting to much thought into this.....
__________________
95 22re extra cab, custom box, 4:56, 31inch tires, electric fan, Flat black paint, 4 runner buckets and mirrors


WANTED: 1st Gen Pickup 4x4 project.
Flash319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2009, 01:43 PM   #33
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
abecedarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,671
maybe this will help: http://autoshop101.com/forms/brake08.pdf
__________________
Proud member of Yotatech's 12000+ post club.

abecedarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2009, 02:34 PM   #34
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Flash319's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Barrie, Ontario CANADA
Posts: 1,581
Quote:
Originally Posted by abecedarian View Post
Very good read.
__________________
95 22re extra cab, custom box, 4:56, 31inch tires, electric fan, Flat black paint, 4 runner buckets and mirrors


WANTED: 1st Gen Pickup 4x4 project.
Flash319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2009, 03:44 PM   #35
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
abecedarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,671
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash319 View Post
Very good read.
I agree.
It explains how proportioning valves work and demonstrates the different types found on various vehicles, why they're there and such and offers some compelling reasons to not remove them.

But, I'm guessing it makes more sense now?
__________________
Proud member of Yotatech's 12000+ post club.

abecedarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2009, 04:08 PM   #36
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
corax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: PDX
Posts: 1,101
Just got this done last weekend
Quote:
Wilwood manual brake proportioning valve - the shiny fittings are SAE standard for 3/16" brake line, the only metric (Toyota) fittings are the rusted ones that I re-used on the master cylinder, the Toyota fittings worked perfectly with the 3/16" line and mixing them on the line made it easy to adapt
(note: all brake lines where bent with a tool, brake line doesn't bend very nicely by hand - it has a tendency to kink)
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Took the LSPV off. The line that needs to get bent down to the flexible brake line is the one at the top of the LSPV - there is an -> next to the brake line on the LSPV. The line with an "F" next to it ties into the front brake line and can just be bent back or cut off . . . .
Click the image to open in full size.

. . . . once you plug the front "T" - - I just took a fiting and put a big puddle of weld in the middle of it to make my own plug.
Click the image to open in full size.
Now I just need to ditch the 1 1/16" master cylinder for a smaller bore
__________________
-Keith- General License Ham
'88 4runner SR5 - 3.0 7MGE eng swap - Marlin HD W56 - 4.88 e-locked & LSD - 33x10.5 BFG KM2's - NWMP Aux Gas Tank - OME Dakar rear springs w/ Bilstein 5150 reservoir shocks Garage Thread

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
corax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2009, 11:17 AM   #37
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
anthony1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: torrance, CA.
Posts: 1,525
Send a message via AIM to anthony1 Send a message via Yahoo to anthony1
I hope you moved the breakline where it goes into the rear drum brake. I don't think the brake line can take the weight of the truck.One land on the rocks and it's over.
__________________
http://www.angelfire.com/ca6/954runner
GOD's Country Best Seen In A 4 Runner. SAS'd front: ARB,Marlin arms, rear: cable elock,APlinks,OEmu860,35MT/R 5spd, 4:1, 5.29.
..."But officer, that was not an illegal turn, it was just an undocumented turn."
anthony1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2009, 05:57 PM   #38
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
I just removed my LSPV (rusted out and too expensive) on my '89 4wd pickup, capped the front drivers side return hole, hooked up to the "T" in the back through the rear brake line, bled the brakes. I wanted to use the truck temporarily until my prop valve comes. My problem is that my brake pedal goes all the way to the floor when I start it and I have no brakes at all unless I push them all the way to the floor. I can pump the brake pedal and it firms up, when it's not running. What did I do wrong? Any guidance would be most appreciated.
jburner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2009, 03:44 AM   #39
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Edit - My brake pedal is not stiff and does not pump up. It travels all the way to the floor with little to no resistance. Is that Master Cylinder or could air in the line do that too? Thanks.
jburner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2009, 07:29 AM   #40
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Beale AFB Ca ( Marysville)
Posts: 264
I did this about 3 weeks ago and I am glad that I did. It was a free and easy fix. I just cut the rod that was connected to the rear diff and then tied it up. I noticed a big difference when I apply the brakes now. Hope this helps.

Jeremy
__________________
I did have a 1990 X-cab P/U, 3.0 SAS'd w/ 3" Trail Gear IFS Eliminator Kit, 4" Trail Gear Rear Lift Kit, 35" KM2s, Yukon 4.88s, Locked Front and Rear w/ Aussie and a Detroit, Sliders, M-8000 Warn Winch, But I sold it
RaginYota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2009, 07:29 AM
Yotatech
4WD Truck




Paid Advertisement
Reply

Tags
adjustable, bypass, homemade, load, pick, pickup, porportioning, pressure, proportioning, removing, sensing, toyota, truck, valve, valvetacoma

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
89 toyota truck load sensing proportioning valve bvrettski 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 33 04-30-2014 10:09 AM
Fixing Load Sensing Proportioning valve ? littlecommando 84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 4 03-10-2009 05:27 PM
(brakes) Load Sensing Proportioning Valve semo Pre 84 Trucks 14 01-31-2008 09:10 PM
need to find load sensing proportioning and bypass valve andrew241 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 10 08-13-2007 04:54 PM
load sensing proportioning and by-pass valve nicka 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 1 11-22-2006 03:52 PM


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:55 PM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.