eliminate load sensing proportioning valve? - Page 2

Justinlhc · 05-05-2009, 04:51 PM

You read sarcasm well. You should get a job doing it.

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

waskillywabbit · 05-05-2009, 05:47 PM

Removed lspv:

Rear discs:

Added mpv:

Brakes work much better with rear discs (full floater rear) and mpv adjusted properly.

RMA · 05-05-2009, 06:12 PM

Looks good Wabbit , I wish I had the time to do disc brakes .Welcome Back Abe.

abecedarian · 05-05-2009, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

Removed lspv:

... >snip<

What did you do with that brake line hanging? That would be the one that tee's into the right front brake, no? How did you plug and remove it since it doesn't show in the later photos?

Quote:

Originally Posted by RMA

Looks good Wabbit , I wish I had the time to do disc brakes .Welcome Back Abe.

I agree- it does look good. To bad there's little explanation behind the photos so others can do it properly. And thanks for the W/B.

BigBluePile · 05-05-2009, 07:00 PM

Well, all I remember when I did my rear disc kit was replumb the lines up front by the passenger front wheel well and out back by the lspv there by rendering in inop. Then plumb in the proportion valve by the master cylinder like Wab. It's been a LONG time since I did it.

Justinlhc · 05-05-2009, 07:02 PM

I used a M10x1.0 bolt with a nut to plug the tee. I tightened the nut just to make sure it doesn't come loose. I left the line. It looked like alot of work to remove and I didn't see any need to remove it.

waskillywabbit · 05-05-2009, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abecedarian

What did you do with that brake line hanging? That would be the one that tee's into the right front brake, no? How did you plug and remove it since it doesn't show in the later photos?

I agree- it does look good. To bad there's little explanation behind the photos so others can do it properly. And thanks for the W/B.

In this photo I cut it and temp crimped it. I later removed the 10mm fitting and soldered up the hole in the plug and made it into a plug.

abecedarian · 05-05-2009, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

In this photo I cut it and temp crimped it. I later removed the 10mm fitting and soldered up the hole in the plug and made it into a plug.

I don't see what you're talking about.
That looks like from the front / right wheel but I don't see the crimp.

BigBluePile · 05-05-2009, 07:22 PM

If you look between the left 90 degree fitting and the right "T" fitting you can see it. The left side of the "T" has the crimp thingy.

Is that right Wab?

waskillywabbit · 05-05-2009, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abecedarian

I don't see what you're talking about.
That looks like from the front / right wheel but I don't see the crimp.

Up from N in Red November at 11 oclock the line coming out of the tee at 9 oclock is crimped about an inch from the fitting.

abecedarian · 05-05-2009, 07:28 PM

ahh... I see it now. looks like it's laying on top of the other line. But I see they're both crimped.
my apologies.

Flash319 · 05-06-2009, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abecedarian

say you've got a pressure source of 1600 PSI and you want to be able to limit it to 1400 PSI... if you have a spring on a valve that applies 400 PSI, and the preload on that spring is adjustable, you can turn in the adjuster so that the 1600 of the fluid fed back into a valve that when the 400 of the spring is added to is enough to cut off the fluid supply until the fluid pressure drops below a certain value.

Ohh I see so it backfeeds onto the spring to cause less flow. But once the system equalizes how does the pressure drop?

While adding pressure you can limit the flow which causes a pressure drop but once the flow stops how do you get rid of the pressure? I can see how it works on gas and hydraulics that are moving but in a brake system the flow becomes stable. In a closed pressure system isn't all the pressure the same unless you have flow somewhere?

I must be missing something or putting to much thought into this.....

abecedarian · 05-06-2009, 01:43 PM

maybe this will help: http://autoshop101.com/forms/brake08.pdf

Flash319 · 05-06-2009, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abecedarian

maybe this will help: http://autoshop101.com/forms/brake08.pdf

Very good read.

abecedarian · 05-06-2009, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flash319

Very good read.

I agree.
It explains how proportioning valves work and demonstrates the different types found on various vehicles, why they're there and such and offers some compelling reasons to not remove them.

But, I'm guessing it makes more sense now?

corax · 05-06-2009, 04:08 PM

Just got this done last weekend

Quote:

Wilwood manual brake proportioning valve - the shiny fittings are SAE standard for 3/16" brake line, the only metric (Toyota) fittings are the rusted ones that I re-used on the master cylinder, the Toyota fittings worked perfectly with the 3/16" line and mixing them on the line made it easy to adapt
(note: all brake lines where bent with a tool, brake line doesn't bend very nicely by hand - it has a tendency to kink)

Took the LSPV off. The line that needs to get bent down to the flexible brake line is the one at the top of the LSPV - there is an -> next to the brake line on the LSPV. The line with an "F" next to it ties into the front brake line and can just be bent back or cut off . . . .

. . . . once you plug the front "T" - - I just took a fiting and put a big puddle of weld in the middle of it to make my own plug.

Now I just need to ditch the 1 1/16" master cylinder for a smaller bore

anthony1 · 05-07-2009, 11:17 AM

I hope you moved the breakline where it goes into the rear drum brake. I don't think the brake line can take the weight of the truck.One land on the rocks and it's over.

jburner · 05-23-2009, 05:57 PM

I just removed my LSPV (rusted out and too expensive) on my '89 4wd pickup, capped the front drivers side return hole, hooked up to the "T" in the back through the rear brake line, bled the brakes. I wanted to use the truck temporarily until my prop valve comes. My problem is that my brake pedal goes all the way to the floor when I start it and I have no brakes at all unless I push them all the way to the floor. I can pump the brake pedal and it firms up, when it's not running. What did I do wrong? Any guidance would be most appreciated.

jburner · 05-24-2009, 03:44 AM

Edit - My brake pedal is not stiff and does not pump up. It travels all the way to the floor with little to no resistance. Is that Master Cylinder or could air in the line do that too? Thanks.

RaginYota · 05-24-2009, 07:29 AM

I did this about 3 weeks ago and I am glad that I did. It was a free and easy fix. I just cut the rod that was connected to the rear diff and then tied it up. I noticed a big difference when I apply the brakes now. Hope this helps.

Jeremy

05-05-2009, 06:12 PM	#23 (permalink)
RMA Contributing Member Personal Sales Rating: (0) Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Jose ,Ca Posts: 2,529	Looks good Wabbit , I wish I had the time to do disc brakes .Welcome Back Abe. __________________ '89 2wd X-tracab,W55,22re,My DD '94 SR5 4Runner 4x4,A340H, 3VZE,Alpine deck,Wifes DD '88 SR5 4runner ,A341E,1UZ-FE,kenwoodVZ907, XRC8, HM Roof rack.33x10.50,15 KM2 1" HM body lift, BJ spacers ,CB, rear disc ,lockright rear, Truetrac front,HM IFS truss,HM sliders,HM rear bumper,HM crossmember,CO2,2 batts,softopper. My swap thread http://www.yotatech.com/f161/1uz-fe-...0-3vze-185324/

05-05-2009, 07:02 PM	#26 (permalink)
Justinlhc Registered User Personal Sales Rating: (0) Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 590	I used a M10x1.0 bolt with a nut to plug the tee. I tightened the nut just to make sure it doesn't come loose. I left the line. It looked like alot of work to remove and I didn't see any need to remove it. __________________ 1993 4Runner SR5 3.oh 5speed 232k+ miles. Mostly for the trails and beach. Mods so far: Thorley headers, 4.30 gears, Rancho 5way shocks, AISIN hubs, LockRight rear locker, no sway bars.....32x11.50 BFG M/T's on 15x8 Cragar Soft8's.

05-05-2009, 07:28 PM	#31 (permalink)
abecedarian Registered User Personal Sales Rating: (0) Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Temecula Valley, CA Posts: 12,590	ahh... I see it now. looks like it's laying on top of the other line. But I see they're both crimped. my apologies. __________________ Proud member of Yotatech's 12000+ post club. * STOLEN TRUCK ALERT * * Still active May, 2013 * CX500TC motorcycle EFI upgrade still in progress.

05-06-2009, 01:43 PM	#33 (permalink)
abecedarian Registered User Personal Sales Rating: (0) Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Temecula Valley, CA Posts: 12,590	maybe this will help: http://autoshop101.com/forms/brake08.pdf __________________ Proud member of Yotatech's 12000+ post club. * STOLEN TRUCK ALERT * * Still active May, 2013 * CX500TC motorcycle EFI upgrade still in progress.

05-07-2009, 11:17 AM	#37 (permalink)
anthony1 Registered User Personal Sales Rating: (0) Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: torrance, CA. Posts: 1,506	I hope you moved the breakline where it goes into the rear drum brake. I don't think the brake line can take the weight of the truck.One land on the rocks and it's over. __________________ http://www.angelfire.com/ca6/954runner GOD's Country Best Seen In A 4 Runner. SAS'd front: ARB,Marlin arms, rear: cable elock,APlinks,OEmu860,35MT/R 5spd, 4:1, 5.29. ..."But officer, that was not an illegal turn, it was just an undocumented turn."

05-05-2009, 05:47 PM	#22 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Banned Vendor Sales Rating: (10) Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 26,699	Removed lspv: Rear discs: Added mpv: Brakes work much better with rear discs (full floater rear) and mpv adjusted properly.

05-23-2009, 05:57 PM	#38 (permalink)
jburner Registered User Personal Sales Rating: (0) Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 4	I just removed my LSPV (rusted out and too expensive) on my '89 4wd pickup, capped the front drivers side return hole, hooked up to the "T" in the back through the rear brake line, bled the brakes. I wanted to use the truck temporarily until my prop valve comes. My problem is that my brake pedal goes all the way to the floor when I start it and I have no brakes at all unless I push them all the way to the floor. I can pump the brake pedal and it firms up, when it's not running. What did I do wrong? Any guidance would be most appreciated.

05-24-2009, 03:44 AM	#39 (permalink)
jburner Registered User Personal Sales Rating: (0) Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 4	Edit - My brake pedal is not stiff and does not pump up. It travels all the way to the floor with little to no resistance. Is that Master Cylinder or could air in the line do that too? Thanks.

05-24-2009, 07:29 AM	#40 (permalink)
RaginYota Registered User Personal Sales Rating: (0) Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Beale AFB Ca ( Marysville) Posts: 264	I did this about 3 weeks ago and I am glad that I did. It was a free and easy fix. I just cut the rod that was connected to the rear diff and then tied it up. I noticed a big difference when I apply the brakes now. Hope this helps. Jeremy __________________ I did have a 1990 X-cab P/U, 3.0 SAS'd w/ 3" Trail Gear IFS Eliminator Kit, 4" Trail Gear Rear Lift Kit, 35" KM2s, Yukon 4.88s, Locked Front and Rear w/ Aussie and a Detroit, Sliders, M-8000 Warn Winch, But I sold it

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
89 toyota truck load sensing proportioning valve	bvrettski	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	29	12-13-2011 03:27 PM
Fixing Load Sensing Proportioning valve ?	littlecommando	84-85 Trucks & 4Runners	4	03-10-2009 05:27 PM
(brakes) Load Sensing Proportioning Valve	semo	Pre 84 Trucks	14	01-31-2008 09:10 PM
need to find load sensing proportioning and bypass valve	andrew241	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	10	08-13-2007 04:54 PM
load sensing proportioning and by-pass valve	nicka	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	1	11-22-2006 03:52 PM