eletrical short

db8gsr · 11-06-2009, 04:47 PM

need some help from all you electrical guys. i think i have a short because i just replaced my battery 2months ago and now its dead. lately the brake and battery lights lights have stayed on the cluster while im driving. ive check alll the fuses and their all good, battery connections are good. has anyone had this problem or have any suggestions?

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desertcamper67 · 11-06-2009, 04:55 PM

Not charging?

Jay351 · 11-06-2009, 05:20 PM

Brake and battery light at the same time means the alt isnt charging properly..

arielb1 · 11-06-2009, 08:26 PM

I have this same problem. The battery light and brake light comes on when I am driving. Car runs fine though.

The next morning, the battery only has 2 volts. That said, when I take a volt meter reading when the truck is running, I get 16 to 17 volts on the battery. When I shut off the truck, it stays at 12.78.

Does this mean we need to replace the alternator when you say it isnt charging properly?
Not sure about DB8GSR member, but my truck has 110K miles. I just rebuilt my starter with help from 4Crawler member. He sold the parts.

Thanks in advanced.

milehigheric · 11-07-2009, 03:27 AM

So when the dash warning lights come on you fail to realise there is a problem. What if it had of just been your brake light? Would you have pulled over or continued to drive? I think it pays to know what the idiot lights are telling you. In this case it is only it is only a charge issue, not really an immediate issue. However if it had of been a brake light only or an engine light serious engine damage or failure of brakes resulting in a crash could have occurred. I dont mean to be rude, it just sounds to me like you just overlooked the importance that dash warning lights were on.

Something is wrong with your charge system, not a short. The electrical load of running your lights and engine is depleting your batterys charge. Could be as simple as a loose/broekn alternator belt so check that first. Your alternator excitor circuit is working (indicated by the working idiot light) so if the belt is ok pull your alternator and get it tested. The electrician will tell you the damage.

To the secondary poster first get your battery load tested. 2V theoretical should kill a battery, deep cycle or not. Remember a discharged battery is considered anything less than 10V! The alternator is your primary issue however, sounds like just a blown regulator. Pull it and take it to an auto electrician for diagnoses.

db8gsr · 11-07-2009, 04:35 PM

ok so now im going to replace the alternator on my 94 v6 pickup, does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove or install through personal experiences. i am not mechaniclly illiterate, just want to be prepared for the worst. i used searc engines with no success

desertcamper67 · 11-07-2009, 06:08 PM

I've gotten a mud packed alternator to work again with a water hose and some compressed air. Had the same lights on. Have you been through the mud lately?

db8gsr · 11-07-2009, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by desertcamper67

I've gotten a mud packed alternator to work again with a water hose and some compressed air. Had the same lights on. Have you been through the mud lately?

no mud here in the desert.lol thanks for the suggestion tho

db8gsr · 11-07-2009, 08:42 PM

im really concerrned about how to remove the alternator belt. is there some kind of tensioner that needs to be loosened to remove the belt? plz help

dntsdad · 11-07-2009, 08:56 PM

Curious.......when you rev it up really good while running does the stereo or any other electronics "shutoff".

If you are getting that type of high voltage (17 volts!!)there is for sure a problem with the regulator in the alternator. However, I have seen corrosion get into the charge feed wire from the alt to the battery. If this wire is so corroded that it interupts current flow it will also cause all the same conditions that you have described. If they test your alternator and say it bad then replace. If they say its good, check, or better yet, replace that wire. Its probably 8gauge I am thinking......cant remember. Either auto parts store, or probably better yet, a car stereo installation bay. Biy the installer lunch for some 8ga and have him crimp the correct terminals on.

db8gsr · 11-07-2009, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dntsdad

Curious.......when you rev it up really good while running does the stereo or any other electronics "shutoff".

If you are getting that type of high voltage (17 volts!!)there is for sure a problem with the regulator in the alternator. However, I have seen corrosion get into the charge feed wire from the alt to the battery. If this wire is so corroded that it interupts current flow it will also cause all the same conditions that you have described. If they test your alternator and say it bad then replace. If they say its good, check, or better yet, replace that wire. Its probably 8gauge I am thinking......cant remember. Either auto parts store, or probably better yet, a car stereo installation bay. Biy the installer lunch for some 8ga and have him crimp the correct terminals on.

i havnt been driving the truck but when i start it and turn on the lghts they appear dimmer than ussual . the terminals are all clean with zero trace of corrosion. autozone tested the alternator and siad i was bad. just need help removing the dam thing so i dont something up

milehigheric · 11-08-2009, 02:40 AM

Take it to an auto electrician! It is one thing to say the alternator is bad, another is to say what part is bad. It is not uncommon for regulators to die, they do have a pretty harsh life but fortunately they can be replaced separately to everything else reasonably cheaply. Get him to check the other components while it is apart, sometimes they are worth replacing also while its apart. It is cheaper to rebuild than to buy new, and I would not be so confident installing a second hand alternator unless I got it for cheap.

db8gsr · 11-08-2009, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by db8gsr

im really concerrned about how to remove the alternator belt. is there some kind of tensioner that needs to be loosened to remove the belt? plz help

anybody????

dntsdad · 11-08-2009, 10:27 AM

Fairly straight-forward job.
This is from the service manual.

3VZ – E:
1. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE TERMINAL CABLE FROM
BATTERY
2. DISCONNECT WIRING FROM GENERATOR
(a) Disconnect the connector from the generator.
(b) Remove the nut and disconnect the wire from the generator.
3. REMOVE GENERATOR DRIVE BELT
Loosen the generator pivot bolts, adjusting lock bolt
and remove the generator drive belt.
4. REMOVE GENERATOR
(a) Remove the pivot bolt and adjusting lock bolt.
(b) Remove the generator.

3VZ – E:
1. INSTALL GENERATOR
Mount the generator on the generator bracket with pivot
bolt and adjusting lock bolts.
2. INSTALL DRIVE BELT
(See step 4 in on – vehicle inspection)
3. CONNECT WIRING TO GENERATOR
(a) Connect the wire to the generator and install the nut.
(b) Connect the connector to the generator.
4. CONNECT NEGATIVE TERMINAL CABLE TO
BATTERY
5. DO ON–VEHICLE INSPECTION
(See on –vehicle inspection)

db8gsr · 11-08-2009, 08:30 PM

thanks!! did a alernator replacement now she runs like a champ

11-06-2009, 05:20 PM	#3 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 8,647	Brake and battery light at the same time means the alt isnt charging properly.. __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 250k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + glasspack \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\|hella E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

11-06-2009, 08:26 PM	#4 (permalink)
arielb1 Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Los Angeles, CA - specifically Northridge Posts: 159	I have this same problem. The battery light and brake light comes on when I am driving. Car runs fine though. The next morning, the battery only has 2 volts. That said, when I take a volt meter reading when the truck is running, I get 16 to 17 volts on the battery. When I shut off the truck, it stays at 12.78. Does this mean we need to replace the alternator when you say it isnt charging properly? Not sure about DB8GSR member, but my truck has 110K miles. I just rebuilt my starter with help from 4Crawler member. He sold the parts. Thanks in advanced. __________________ 1994 4Runner V6 SR5, 4X4, 5 spd, 116K miles. I keep the truck all stock. The rear of the truck looks like it is dragging and I dont know how to fix it.

11-07-2009, 08:56 PM	#10 (permalink)
dntsdad Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 295	Curious.......when you rev it up really good while running does the stereo or any other electronics "shutoff". If you are getting that type of high voltage (17 volts!!)there is for sure a problem with the regulator in the alternator. However, I have seen corrosion get into the charge feed wire from the alt to the battery. If this wire is so corroded that it interupts current flow it will also cause all the same conditions that you have described. If they test your alternator and say it bad then replace. If they say its good, check, or better yet, replace that wire. Its probably 8gauge I am thinking......cant remember. Either auto parts store, or probably better yet, a car stereo installation bay. Biy the installer lunch for some 8ga and have him crimp the correct terminals on. __________________ 1992 Toyota Pickup Ex-Cab 3.0 V6 4" Pro-Comp lift Last edited by dntsdad; 11-07-2009 at 08:58 PM.

11-08-2009, 10:27 AM	#14 (permalink)
dntsdad Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 295	Fairly straight-forward job. This is from the service manual. 3VZ – E: 1. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE TERMINAL CABLE FROM BATTERY 2. DISCONNECT WIRING FROM GENERATOR (a) Disconnect the connector from the generator. (b) Remove the nut and disconnect the wire from the generator. 3. REMOVE GENERATOR DRIVE BELT Loosen the generator pivot bolts, adjusting lock bolt and remove the generator drive belt. 4. REMOVE GENERATOR (a) Remove the pivot bolt and adjusting lock bolt. (b) Remove the generator. 3VZ – E: 1. INSTALL GENERATOR Mount the generator on the generator bracket with pivot bolt and adjusting lock bolts. 2. INSTALL DRIVE BELT (See step 4 in on – vehicle inspection) 3. CONNECT WIRING TO GENERATOR (a) Connect the wire to the generator and install the nut. (b) Connect the connector to the generator. 4. CONNECT NEGATIVE TERMINAL CABLE TO BATTERY 5. DO ON–VEHICLE INSPECTION (See on –vehicle inspection) __________________ 1992 Toyota Pickup Ex-Cab 3.0 V6 4" Pro-Comp lift

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11-07-2009, 03:27 AM	#5 (permalink)
milehigheric Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 42	So when the dash warning lights come on you fail to realise there is a problem. What if it had of just been your brake light? Would you have pulled over or continued to drive? I think it pays to know what the idiot lights are telling you. In this case it is only it is only a charge issue, not really an immediate issue. However if it had of been a brake light only or an engine light serious engine damage or failure of brakes resulting in a crash could have occurred. I dont mean to be rude, it just sounds to me like you just overlooked the importance that dash warning lights were on. Something is wrong with your charge system, not a short. The electrical load of running your lights and engine is depleting your batterys charge. Could be as simple as a loose/broekn alternator belt so check that first. Your alternator excitor circuit is working (indicated by the working idiot light) so if the belt is ok pull your alternator and get it tested. The electrician will tell you the damage. To the secondary poster first get your battery load tested. 2V theoretical should kill a battery, deep cycle or not. Remember a discharged battery is considered anything less than 10V! The alternator is your primary issue however, sounds like just a blown regulator. Pull it and take it to an auto electrician for diagnoses.

11-07-2009, 04:35 PM	#6 (permalink)
db8gsr Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 33	ok so now im going to replace the alternator on my 94 v6 pickup, does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove or install through personal experiences. i am not mechaniclly illiterate, just want to be prepared for the worst. i used searc engines with no success

11-07-2009, 08:42 PM	#9 (permalink)
db8gsr Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 33	im really concerrned about how to remove the alternator belt. is there some kind of tensioner that needs to be loosened to remove the belt? plz help

11-08-2009, 02:40 AM	#12 (permalink)
milehigheric Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 42	Take it to an auto electrician! It is one thing to say the alternator is bad, another is to say what part is bad. It is not uncommon for regulators to die, they do have a pretty harsh life but fortunately they can be replaced separately to everything else reasonably cheaply. Get him to check the other components while it is apart, sometimes they are worth replacing also while its apart. It is cheaper to rebuild than to buy new, and I would not be so confident installing a second hand alternator unless I got it for cheap.

11-08-2009, 08:30 PM	#15 (permalink)
db8gsr Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 33	thanks!! did a alernator replacement now she runs like a champ