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Welll lets be clear. I just started doing lathes a year ago and this is only two. So I can't be an addict yet. I deny it.
A block off plate is doable for sure. Any pro's and con's associated with it? What if anything else would change?
I gotta go turn the cross feed...
oh, Fipg?
Last edited by Step Side 88; 01-20-2017 at 05:37 PM.
Didn't you say that there was no sensor plumbed into the EGR pipe? That would mean that blocking it off permanently wouldn't give you a check engine light. Oldest city west of the Mississippi is up for debate so is that Missouri or Iowa? No smog tests here in Arkansas so my egr is GONE! along with the pair reed valve and all of their spaghetti plate of vacuum hoses. No marked improvement in performance but it makes things under the hood SO much simpler. Also cuts troubleshooting time down a lot when issues arise.
Smog system delete has been covered in depth everywhere. It's like the blonde, brunette or redheads debates. In the end it probably doesn't matter unless you're in California, in which case do as they do fake it when ya need to.
Smog system delete has been covered in depth everywhere. It's like the blonde, brunette or redheads debates. In the end it probably doesn't matter unless you're in California, in which case do as they do fake it when ya need to.
Yes it has! I forgot what happens every time someone brings it up. Turns the thread from useful info to an ignorant argument for two pages.
No smog/deq on the coast here so I could lose that stuff if it comes down to it.
I'd still like to know what and why it's doing it.
the smog gas sensor seems to just be a California smog part. No?
first things first. Plug wires. Any recommendations?
Plug wires, OEM or similar spec. Particularly the Ohm value, I read somewhere recently of strange effects using hiperformance (lower resistance) ones and can only think it alters the discharge curve of the coil which might effect the noise filter (that little black box on the side)
The EGR temp sensor might come on a non California smog version in some cases in this era depending on the ECU part used, it became standard in later years and some of those later ones don't have the sensor again depending on what computer. Maybe it was a bad batch of ECU's, overstock, different intended market that got rerouted who knows
I've had best results with cheap Denso or NGK plugs and wires. I sure recommend the cheap plugs. Don't know why but every Toyota I've ever had liked them best. If you are doing your wires, I'd sure recommend servicing your distributor while you're at it.
I've had best results with cheap Denso or NGK plugs and wires. I sure recommend the cheap plugs. Don't know why but every Toyota I've ever had liked them best. If you are doing your wires, I'd sure recommend servicing your distributor while you're at it.
just waiting on the 7mm denso wires to arrive. NGKs are in.
what servicing of dizzy are you recommending? It isn't even time for my first timing belt change ( mileage wise ) yet.
Cap and rotor change every time you change wire, or don't know when it was last done.. The usual.. it's "good practice" but mine are way over due and it's starting to complain but I expected that reusing the plugs after the head gasket let loose I didn't even clean them off so I'm just happy it still starts and runs.
Cringe... yeah I put these back in.. #4 spun loose at one point and has/had carbon all along the threads I never cleaned. #2 is the one that was venting steam into the cylinder.
I pulled #2 and 3 yesterday for a health check, and cleaned them up before I put them back in.
Cap and rotor of course. I thought you meant the dizzy itself.
I've rebuilt a couple but they had 2x the miles on them and couldn't see this requiring a tear down yet. Whew.
Cap and rotor of course. I thought you meant the dizzy itself.
I've rebuilt a couple but they had 2x the miles on them and couldn't see this requiring a tear down yet. Whew.
yeah, my old plugs were dbl that color brown.
Everything I've seen says we're to stupid replace the bearings or adjust the pickup.. "replace if out of spec" but I've never looked really hard into refurbishment. If a kit partnumber falls into my lap I'll save it for reference but see no need yet.
So it wasn't the spark plug wire after all, and who says you can't throw parts at a problem and fix it anyway?
In desperation I picked up a new dizzy hat and WHAM everything is happy again.
So kids, its screw the diagnostics and just buy parts till your happy or out of money.
and that cap only had about 5k miles on it too...
thanks for all the assistance guys.
and FU autozone....
The solid gasket is still in place on the plenum to EGR port.
dare to compare? Pull that block off plate out and it should go backwards. I'd not, well I really did over diagnose
Originally Posted by Step Side 88
So it wasn't the spark plug wire after all, and who says you can't throw parts at a problem and fix it anyway?
In desperation I picked up a new dizzy hat and WHAM everything is happy again.
So kids, its screw the diagnostics and just buy parts till your happy or out of money.
and that cap only had about 5k miles on it too...
thanks for all the assistance guys.
and FU autozone....
distrubutor cap, rotor, and wires always at the same time.
New spark plugs with a worn distributor gap (not cap, gap as in the combined rotor and cap wear) only slightly closes the overall gap, the rotor takes the load for all cylinders and wears the fastest generally. More gap drives the voltage up, which increases the wear on all the gaps and could drive the voltage above the coil rating. Aswell Once the gap exceeds the ability of the ignitor to prevent the back current it will begin to fail.
add!
Inspect the gap on that old #2 plug I'm expecting it will be a bit more open than the others.
:bottom line:
Test everything from your big box parts store. They are glorified burger flippers, even the car guys are going to have limited exposure between manufacturers
distrubutor cap, rotor, and wires always at the same time.
:bottom line:
Test everything from your big box parts store. They are glorified burger flippers, even the car guys are going to have limited exposure between manufacturers
Well I 'asked' for a rotor too but after fifteen minutes of people talking in the back and one 'old guy' my age who didn't seem to know shinola from simonize and even less about their retail system he got the wrong rotor and had to have a manager come ring up the sale.
in the end not replacing the rotor just confirmed it was the (again) 5k mile old cap. 5 months worth or driving. Your not supposed go have to figure a cap has to be replaced like oil filters are you?
its ok it allows my inner Archie Bunker out. He's gonna have a good next four years.
01-20-2017, 05:35 PM
add!
