Differential Stud Elimination, Pinion & Inner Axle Seal Replacement
09-23-2011, 08:40 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oregon, USA
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Differential Stud Elimination, Pinion & Inner Axle Seal Replacement
Tomorrow I'll be replacing the pinion and inner axle seals as well as eliminating the differential studs. I'm not a write-up kind of guy and I don't have a camera man handy, but I'll take pics as grease allows so bear with me. Here's what I picked up today:
I stopped by the dealership today to get the o-rings (for those who say they don't exist: part number 90301-88077) for $5.60 ea.
I'll try to get some good pics of the process and maybe even do a little write-up. I'm not doing the bearings or the outers right now...the diff/housing and pinion seal leak so I have to pull the axles. Inner seals will just be preventative maintenance. Wheel bearings and new inners/outers (from Toyota) will go in with the e-locker down the road.
I'll update tomorrow afternoon when I put the wrenches down.
I stopped by the dealership today to get the o-rings (for those who say they don't exist: part number 90301-88077) for $5.60 ea.
I'll try to get some good pics of the process and maybe even do a little write-up. I'm not doing the bearings or the outers right now...the diff/housing and pinion seal leak so I have to pull the axles. Inner seals will just be preventative maintenance. Wheel bearings and new inners/outers (from Toyota) will go in with the e-locker down the road.
I'll update tomorrow afternoon when I put the wrenches down.
Last edited by BMcEL; 09-23-2011 at 09:36 PM.
09-24-2011, 09:26 PM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oregon, USA
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Getting started…
Raise rear of vehicle and place on jack stands. Drain gear oil (remove fill plug before draining!). Remove ABS sensor. (2) 12mm bolts…one holds the sensor in the third member, the other holds the bracket.
Remove (4) 14mm bolts holding the drum brake to the housing and pull the brake lines (10mm). I used vacuum caps to prevent the brake fluid from gravity bleeding. Disconnect e-brake cables. Remove the axles and inner seals.
Yes I'm aware my creeper is on fire. Check the wheel bearings for excessive play. Too much play can destroy the inner axle seals.
Remove (4) 14mm bolts holding the drive shaft to the pinion flange and secure it out of the way. Mark pinion flange and drive shaft for proper realignment during reassembly.
Remove (10) 12mm nuts holding the third member in the housing. Remove the third member.
Remove the studs and clean the mating surfaces. Housing with studs:
Chase the threads with an 8x1.25 tap and install stud eliminator kit. Chasing the threads is not required if they are in good shape but it will make installing the new bolts from inside the housing MUCH easier.
Wipe down both mating surfaces with brake cleaner. Apply black RTV to the housing (surround studs) and reinstall third member. I he-manned it back on but using a jack would probably be much easier. Finger tighten nuts (until RTV begins to squeeze out)...wait one hour before tightening third member. Clean ABS sensor mating surfaces and reinstall.
Install new inner seals and smear grease on the lip. Reinstall axles and wheels. Wait approximately 12 hours before filling differential with gear oil. Next step will be the pinion seal (with truck resting on the ground to allow for pinion flange removal). I got side tracked today so I didn’t have time to finish. I’ll update again tomorrow afternoon after replacing the pinion seal.
Raise rear of vehicle and place on jack stands. Drain gear oil (remove fill plug before draining!). Remove ABS sensor. (2) 12mm bolts…one holds the sensor in the third member, the other holds the bracket.
Remove (4) 14mm bolts holding the drum brake to the housing and pull the brake lines (10mm). I used vacuum caps to prevent the brake fluid from gravity bleeding. Disconnect e-brake cables. Remove the axles and inner seals.
Yes I'm aware my creeper is on fire. Check the wheel bearings for excessive play. Too much play can destroy the inner axle seals.
Remove (4) 14mm bolts holding the drive shaft to the pinion flange and secure it out of the way. Mark pinion flange and drive shaft for proper realignment during reassembly.
Remove (10) 12mm nuts holding the third member in the housing. Remove the third member.
Remove the studs and clean the mating surfaces. Housing with studs:
Chase the threads with an 8x1.25 tap and install stud eliminator kit. Chasing the threads is not required if they are in good shape but it will make installing the new bolts from inside the housing MUCH easier.
Wipe down both mating surfaces with brake cleaner. Apply black RTV to the housing (surround studs) and reinstall third member. I he-manned it back on but using a jack would probably be much easier. Finger tighten nuts (until RTV begins to squeeze out)...wait one hour before tightening third member. Clean ABS sensor mating surfaces and reinstall.
Install new inner seals and smear grease on the lip. Reinstall axles and wheels. Wait approximately 12 hours before filling differential with gear oil. Next step will be the pinion seal (with truck resting on the ground to allow for pinion flange removal). I got side tracked today so I didn’t have time to finish. I’ll update again tomorrow afternoon after replacing the pinion seal.
Last edited by BMcEL; 09-25-2011 at 08:45 PM.
09-25-2011, 05:21 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, BMcEl. Just did this last weekend. Our experience wasn't as seemingly smooth as yours, ha ha! Didn't eliminate the studs, either.
Having done a home-brew pinion seal, I am expecting to have to replace my third member in 10K, 20K miles...my friend is going to give me one - thinks mine is almost toast, anyway...the purpose of my safari back there was to replace the rear housing - had an oil leak below the fill plug, thru the metal!! All is well now :o) Good writeup.
Having done a home-brew pinion seal, I am expecting to have to replace my third member in 10K, 20K miles...my friend is going to give me one - thinks mine is almost toast, anyway...the purpose of my safari back there was to replace the rear housing - had an oil leak below the fill plug, thru the metal!! All is well now :o) Good writeup.
09-25-2011, 01:35 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oregon, USA
Posts: 2,027
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Finished up this morning.
Unstake the 30mm pinion nut and remove it...count the turns while removing in order to maintain proper bearing preload upon reassembly. Remove pinion flange. Mine was a little stubborn so I used a three-jaw puller to coax it off. If the flange is grooved where the seal rides, it may begin to leak again. A new flange can be ordered from your local dealership. Remove the pinion seal.
Install new seal and smear grease on the lip. I used a 54mm socket for the front spindles to drive it in. Reinstall pinion flange and nut. Re-stake the nut and connect the drive line to the pinion flange.
Go for a good drive and check for leaks.
Unstake the 30mm pinion nut and remove it...count the turns while removing in order to maintain proper bearing preload upon reassembly. Remove pinion flange. Mine was a little stubborn so I used a three-jaw puller to coax it off. If the flange is grooved where the seal rides, it may begin to leak again. A new flange can be ordered from your local dealership. Remove the pinion seal.
Install new seal and smear grease on the lip. I used a 54mm socket for the front spindles to drive it in. Reinstall pinion flange and nut. Re-stake the nut and connect the drive line to the pinion flange.
Go for a good drive and check for leaks.
Last edited by BMcEL; 09-25-2011 at 01:45 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FS[PacSouthWest]: 2- 8"3rd members:4.88 ratchet lockers,new setup kit, rear axle rebuild kit,diff armor
jerusry
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
1
10-19-2015 05:28 PM
