CV joint / shaft...how do I know it's bad and what can I expect upon replacement?
08-01-2007, 02:32 PM
#21
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I've used this writeup a couple times:
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=186138
Note that doing the CV and the wheel bearings are not really related. The only thing in common is removing the wheel and manual hub/add plate.
While you have the CV out, be sure to shoot some grease into the spindle bushing! (where the CV goes through the spindle)
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=186138
Note that doing the CV and the wheel bearings are not really related. The only thing in common is removing the wheel and manual hub/add plate.
While you have the CV out, be sure to shoot some grease into the spindle bushing! (where the CV goes through the spindle)
08-01-2007, 03:28 PM
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4X4 wire has a really good writeup that applies to 3rd gens if that's any help. I did the CV's in my bug once, and that was one too many times. For the $30-$40 extra bucks, it's so worth it just to get them complete. If you get a quote from a dealer or someone to do these axles, it can be quite expensive. I also believe it's not one of those items that i'd rather have someone else deal with. It's to easy to take it apart yourself. Goodluck!
08-03-2007, 12:21 PM
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Update!!!
Ok, so ive chosen to do this job myself and i am now starting to regret ever loosening the 1st lug nut. what a pain in the ass this is turning out to be.
why you ask?
well, outta all the advice given, the only piece of advice missing is...how to actually get the entire shaft, out of where it is.
it's diassembled alright. with the shaft layin in their like a 3 legged horse with no clear path to get the damn thing out.
take off the tie rod end and move the spindle you say?
BS! yeah it lets it move around alright, but not in any specific angle to get the shaft out. (mind you...them advanced auto store"tie rod end splitters" for $12...junk!!! damn thing seperated and mauled the hell outta the rod end rubber boot. thus i had to make a trip to the parts store for a $16 tie rod end. now jeoprodizing my recent alignment)
what's goin on is....angle. it appears that if i jack up the lower control arm, the shaft gets "more free', and the angle for the path behind the transfer case looks good. oh, did i mention, now i have to take off the front shock and sway bar end link? just to get the control arm to go high enough. i tried jacking it with the shock and end link on, all it does is lift the truck off the stands.
right now i got the shock bolts soaking in WD40, im headed back out here shortly. (had to come in and calm myself.....rrrrrrr, rasafrasssin damn toyota's!)
cone washers? came off easy with a good rap on the stud with a hammer and brass punch.
PS...do not take the brake caliper off until you have cracked the inner 2 1/8" spindle nuts loose. I found this out and had to reassemble caliper, just to loosen these nuts. which was rather easy, but then again. i used a huge 3/4" drive drive ratchet with the ol' monster size socket to boot.
also while brake caliper is on....LOOSEN THE INNER SHAFT NUTS!!!!
another learning curve :>)
so far im pretty pissed that i cant get the shaft out. yes, it's completely free and unbolted. the inner cap is even off, exposing the 3 bearings. the only path is angled down and back behind the front differential.
as far as reassembly torque of the spindle nuts. im clueless their. yes, i do know the required specs, but where am i gonna get a 3/4" drive torque wrench? ( to fit the huge 2 1/8" socket) thats pretty friggin big...for this job.
I have 1/2" drive torque wrench, but that wont apply to the monster 3/4" socket opening.
ohhhh...here's another tip. now i degreased everything at the local wishy washy before tackling this job. dont do this. it's a waste of money, time and effort.
once i got in their and started gettin things apart...the grease thats in these boots is old and real messy. thankfully, i got me some disposable vynal gloves. yeah i change em about every 20 mins, but beats trying to mess with all this grease. and i mean, theirs alot packed in them boots, so be prepared. i stopped at the local goodwill and loaded up a whole huge box of their un-usable old tshirts. i made a small donation and very thankfull i did....cause people....this is a lot of grease!!!
why you ask?
well, outta all the advice given, the only piece of advice missing is...how to actually get the entire shaft, out of where it is.
it's diassembled alright. with the shaft layin in their like a 3 legged horse with no clear path to get the damn thing out.
take off the tie rod end and move the spindle you say?
BS! yeah it lets it move around alright, but not in any specific angle to get the shaft out. (mind you...them advanced auto store"tie rod end splitters" for $12...junk!!! damn thing seperated and mauled the hell outta the rod end rubber boot. thus i had to make a trip to the parts store for a $16 tie rod end. now jeoprodizing my recent alignment)
what's goin on is....angle. it appears that if i jack up the lower control arm, the shaft gets "more free', and the angle for the path behind the transfer case looks good. oh, did i mention, now i have to take off the front shock and sway bar end link? just to get the control arm to go high enough. i tried jacking it with the shock and end link on, all it does is lift the truck off the stands.
right now i got the shock bolts soaking in WD40, im headed back out here shortly. (had to come in and calm myself.....rrrrrrr, rasafrasssin damn toyota's!)
cone washers? came off easy with a good rap on the stud with a hammer and brass punch.
PS...do not take the brake caliper off until you have cracked the inner 2 1/8" spindle nuts loose. I found this out and had to reassemble caliper, just to loosen these nuts. which was rather easy, but then again. i used a huge 3/4" drive drive ratchet with the ol' monster size socket to boot.
also while brake caliper is on....LOOSEN THE INNER SHAFT NUTS!!!!
another learning curve :>)
so far im pretty pissed that i cant get the shaft out. yes, it's completely free and unbolted. the inner cap is even off, exposing the 3 bearings. the only path is angled down and back behind the front differential.
as far as reassembly torque of the spindle nuts. im clueless their. yes, i do know the required specs, but where am i gonna get a 3/4" drive torque wrench? ( to fit the huge 2 1/8" socket) thats pretty friggin big...for this job.
I have 1/2" drive torque wrench, but that wont apply to the monster 3/4" socket opening.
ohhhh...here's another tip. now i degreased everything at the local wishy washy before tackling this job. dont do this. it's a waste of money, time and effort.
once i got in their and started gettin things apart...the grease thats in these boots is old and real messy. thankfully, i got me some disposable vynal gloves. yeah i change em about every 20 mins, but beats trying to mess with all this grease. and i mean, theirs alot packed in them boots, so be prepared. i stopped at the local goodwill and loaded up a whole huge box of their un-usable old tshirts. i made a small donation and very thankfull i did....cause people....this is a lot of grease!!!
Last edited by dutchboy; 08-03-2007 at 12:24 PM.
08-03-2007, 12:43 PM
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Aahh, the old getting the cv-axle out hassle. Funny the most time consuming part of the whole job is described in one sentence in the FSM.
I'll try to remember what I did to get it out. Too bad I never documented it when I was in there, but I don't expect to have to dig into this again in a while.
Trick 1: Ater you loosen the 6 nuts on the splined bolts between the CV axle and the driveshaft from the diff, hammer or press out at least 3 or 4 of the bolts. This will give you a lot more room to work with and will enable you to drop the inner part of the cv joint below the drive axles from the diff.
Trick 2: I only loosened the lower shock mount, nothing else on the steering knuckle. If you jack up the suspension arms to just about horizontal, you can slide out the CV joint if you turn the steering a little bit off straight ahead. Can't remember which way it was, but that's how it worked for me. I wonder if I had to take it in a couple of steps, say turn in one direction, slide out a little bit, then turn in the other direction and do the rest.
Hope it helps.
I'll try to remember what I did to get it out. Too bad I never documented it when I was in there, but I don't expect to have to dig into this again in a while.
Trick 1: Ater you loosen the 6 nuts on the splined bolts between the CV axle and the driveshaft from the diff, hammer or press out at least 3 or 4 of the bolts. This will give you a lot more room to work with and will enable you to drop the inner part of the cv joint below the drive axles from the diff.
Trick 2: I only loosened the lower shock mount, nothing else on the steering knuckle. If you jack up the suspension arms to just about horizontal, you can slide out the CV joint if you turn the steering a little bit off straight ahead. Can't remember which way it was, but that's how it worked for me. I wonder if I had to take it in a couple of steps, say turn in one direction, slide out a little bit, then turn in the other direction and do the rest.
Hope it helps.
08-03-2007, 02:27 PM
#25
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rrrrr....
well, the splined bolts on the inner differential hub...forget about hammering or pressing them out. for one, their is no room for ANY type of press or even a small c clamp...hammering em?
within closed quarters working in a driveway? no swinging room...at all (with the shaft in), besides...one glance, then theirs a whole new project. replacing a mauled inner axle hub, studded bolt, no thanks.
well, i unbolted the lower shock and the sway bar end link (which for my luck, it broke right off on the 1st turn...yes it was pre-soaked).
jacked up the old lower control arm and had aaaaalmost enough angle. well...this shaft was comin out one way or the other. i thought, "well, it's already junk". so out came the BFH and BFPUNCH to compliment it. a few good whacks and it finally tumbled out and died on the driveway. finally!
now...the tricky part. gettin the new one in without mauling that.
the only solution i see and i was trying to avoid...is seperating the upper and lower ball joints and getting the entire damn spindle assembly outta the way. the Haynes "manual of love" describes to do this to get the old shaft out. like i said, i was tryin to avoid that.
so now, im off to the parts store, again. to pray that they have the sway bar end link and to borrow a ball joint seporator. and no...it's not the pickle fork thing either. which i previously found out, that the quick cheap ones are junk from the mold. spend the money on a good cast one if your serious about purchasing one for keeps.
oh...while im at the parts store. guess what i get to do? argue with the parts counter guru over why he gave me the wrong axle shaft!!!
yup...my luck. i get er out...pair em up. the new one is close, but where the spline slides thru the hollow spindle...well, where it meets the backing plate, mine has a rubber seal on the shaft that mates. the new one, that end is machined completely different and has no seal. nice huh...so another tip.
dont get the new one until you got the old one out...to take with you and match up. just to avoid the excess running around and aggravation. i fully see this being a weekend job.
while i got the blasted thing apart. im definetly repacking all the wheel bearings. a new inner whell bearing seal...$15. already snagged two this morning. ( inkw some poor chump...me...is gonna be doing the driver side someday so...when in rome, right?
although, no more wrenching tonite. trucks in the driveway,safely on 2 stands and all exposed "limbs" are dry rag covered 9while ball joint bolts soak over night). then duct taped a glad trash bag over everything . (it's getting ready to rain in these parts).
so, ill c where i get tomorrow and update some more.
here's a big note for those who claimed this to be an easy job. i agree. looks very simple. total banana job, right?
wrong.
ive been schooled in auto mechanics and heavy equipment repair. im 39 and been wrenching long and hard for years. yes, a novice can do this with the right tools.
granted, im doin things the primitive way, by working in my driveway off of jack stands. not all of us have the luxury of an air powered garage, but this is not as simple as it looks. to have to seperate upper and lower ball joints, just to get the new one in? yup...definetly a banana job. meaning...pay some other monkey to do it!!!
within closed quarters working in a driveway? no swinging room...at all (with the shaft in), besides...one glance, then theirs a whole new project. replacing a mauled inner axle hub, studded bolt, no thanks.
well, i unbolted the lower shock and the sway bar end link (which for my luck, it broke right off on the 1st turn...yes it was pre-soaked).
jacked up the old lower control arm and had aaaaalmost enough angle. well...this shaft was comin out one way or the other. i thought, "well, it's already junk". so out came the BFH and BFPUNCH to compliment it. a few good whacks and it finally tumbled out and died on the driveway. finally!
now...the tricky part. gettin the new one in without mauling that.
the only solution i see and i was trying to avoid...is seperating the upper and lower ball joints and getting the entire damn spindle assembly outta the way. the Haynes "manual of love" describes to do this to get the old shaft out. like i said, i was tryin to avoid that.
so now, im off to the parts store, again. to pray that they have the sway bar end link and to borrow a ball joint seporator. and no...it's not the pickle fork thing either. which i previously found out, that the quick cheap ones are junk from the mold. spend the money on a good cast one if your serious about purchasing one for keeps.
oh...while im at the parts store. guess what i get to do? argue with the parts counter guru over why he gave me the wrong axle shaft!!!
yup...my luck. i get er out...pair em up. the new one is close, but where the spline slides thru the hollow spindle...well, where it meets the backing plate, mine has a rubber seal on the shaft that mates. the new one, that end is machined completely different and has no seal. nice huh...so another tip.
dont get the new one until you got the old one out...to take with you and match up. just to avoid the excess running around and aggravation. i fully see this being a weekend job.
while i got the blasted thing apart. im definetly repacking all the wheel bearings. a new inner whell bearing seal...$15. already snagged two this morning. ( inkw some poor chump...me...is gonna be doing the driver side someday so...when in rome, right?
although, no more wrenching tonite. trucks in the driveway,safely on 2 stands and all exposed "limbs" are dry rag covered 9while ball joint bolts soak over night). then duct taped a glad trash bag over everything . (it's getting ready to rain in these parts).
so, ill c where i get tomorrow and update some more.
here's a big note for those who claimed this to be an easy job. i agree. looks very simple. total banana job, right?
wrong.
ive been schooled in auto mechanics and heavy equipment repair. im 39 and been wrenching long and hard for years. yes, a novice can do this with the right tools.
granted, im doin things the primitive way, by working in my driveway off of jack stands. not all of us have the luxury of an air powered garage, but this is not as simple as it looks. to have to seperate upper and lower ball joints, just to get the new one in? yup...definetly a banana job. meaning...pay some other monkey to do it!!!
08-03-2007, 02:33 PM
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When I hammered my bolts out, yes in the driveway, on dirt, on my back, at an angle, I used a hammer and an aluminum rod that I bought to get the cone washers out (just couldn't find a brass bar at the time). It might take 10 or 15 blows, but it's a lot easier than the procedure you described disassembling all kinds of joints 
. It worked for me, but again, it just takes some patience to get everything lined up with the jacking of the arms and to get the right angle on the steering.
. It worked for me, but again, it just takes some patience to get everything lined up with the jacking of the arms and to get the right angle on the steering.
08-03-2007, 05:23 PM
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so you dont think i should have to remove the upper n lower ball joints to get the spindle asembly outta the way?
now that the old shaft is out, i can pry use my brass rod and work those splined bolts back some/ ill try that route b4 the ball joint route.
those splined bolts...any idea of the torque spec on them?
book dont say...of course.
another issue along the way...this sway bar end link. while at the parts store, he got me the one the book calls for. night n day difference.
the one on my 4runner that broke while trying to remove has a straight threaded shaft with bushings and bushing covers, that go thru the lower control arm...at the top of this assembly, it's what closely resemble a ball joint. it's on a 90 degree angle...tapered ,with a rubber grease filled boot, that the threaded stud part goes thru the sway bar and nutted on the other side. this stud that goes thru...in the very end,their is a hex (allen wrench) opening. to hold the "ball joint type end" while manipulating the nut on or off.
are you familiar with this at all? no one has ever seen this and no other toyota (t1000, 4x4 4runner, 2x4 4runner or land rover) has this. newer or older.
i have a pic of this piece if you'd like to see it.
email me at:
dutchboy420@comcast.net
i plan on traveling to the dealership tomorrow morning to try n cross match this blasted piece.
any help here?
thanx!
Dutch
now that the old shaft is out, i can pry use my brass rod and work those splined bolts back some/ ill try that route b4 the ball joint route.
those splined bolts...any idea of the torque spec on them?
book dont say...of course.
another issue along the way...this sway bar end link. while at the parts store, he got me the one the book calls for. night n day difference.
the one on my 4runner that broke while trying to remove has a straight threaded shaft with bushings and bushing covers, that go thru the lower control arm...at the top of this assembly, it's what closely resemble a ball joint. it's on a 90 degree angle...tapered ,with a rubber grease filled boot, that the threaded stud part goes thru the sway bar and nutted on the other side. this stud that goes thru...in the very end,their is a hex (allen wrench) opening. to hold the "ball joint type end" while manipulating the nut on or off.
are you familiar with this at all? no one has ever seen this and no other toyota (t1000, 4x4 4runner, 2x4 4runner or land rover) has this. newer or older.
i have a pic of this piece if you'd like to see it.
email me at:
dutchboy420@comcast.net
i plan on traveling to the dealership tomorrow morning to try n cross match this blasted piece.
any help here?
thanx!
Dutch
08-03-2007, 08:34 PM
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pics of the parts for this project and some notice-able issues.
next one down please.
i goofed.
i goofed.
Last edited by dutchboy; 08-03-2007 at 08:38 PM.
08-03-2007, 08:36 PM
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Did you put the new one in, in the reverse order...without seperating any ball joints?
here , i took the time to snap some pics after cleaning all the parts and taking a piece count.
these are the two spindle nuts. (2 1/8" socket). look real close...yup. someone was here before me. see them chisel marks? someone apperently didnt have the socket needed. btw.when i applied the ol monster socket. these nuts literally spun loose with the weight of the ratchet. someone was def. here and did a horrible job. I later found out, under all the grease. the lower control arm was replaced. found salvage yard markings.
here's the socket,ratchet needed. 3/4" drive is the only drive to accomodate this socket. plus the "mmpf" to break em loose...when their properly tightened. you'll notice the seal puller. worthless for removing the inner wheel bearing seal. see the firemans pry bar above? that worked way better. one good heaving pry and the seal popped right out. the seal puller. i worked that thing for 20mins and just slightly bent the seal. didnt even break it loose.
when re-installing the inner wheel bearing seal. I lubed it real good with bearing grease (the same grease I used to repack the wheel bearings) and used a clean smooth 2x4 to "TAP" it into place. nice n even. PS...the seal has a number laser printed on it. that goes to the outside.
the notorius junk tie rod end pickle fork. see how it spread? that was after about 3 swings of the hammer. eventually ended up heating it up and BFH-ing it out. and yes. plenty of penetrating spray,brake cleaner and a good wheel bearing grease. TIP: when repacking the wheel bearings. I do this the old school way. by hand. got me a good pair of all purpose rubber gloves, rather lightweight pair too. these worked great while messing in the grease to hand pack the bearings.
new shaft. outer end (mates to backing plate). whats missing?
the dust cap/seal...which i just lightly tapped off, around and around, with a brass punch (or old screwdriver)
...BUT DO NOT DAMAGE THIS PIECE BY ANY MEANS. IT'S PRACTICALLY IRREPLACE-ABLE!!! i dare you to try n locate this piece at an auto parts store. when i cleaned this piece. I just used a clean shop rag. no solvents or cleaners of any kind. I didnt want to take a chance and damage the rubber. i will grease the rubber as the mating backing plate is greased as well.
dust ring installed on new shaft. just lightyl tap on with soft hammer.
Ball joint seperator. I "borrowed" this one from Pep Boys for a $100 deposit, fully refundable after return within 10 days. most auto parts stores have a tool borrowing program. just ask em. and they have all the odd ball, one time use tools. so no need to make undue purchases. unless you plan on doing this for a living.
and last but not least. the broken, front anti-sway bar end link. this is not what the book calls for, from any parts store ive contacted and visited with this part in hand to match. no luck...anywhere. the stores offer the original end link. the standard bolt with a spacer in the middle, washers,bushngs, (which then seats on lower control arm and the other end in the sway bar end). what i thought i found online tonite...it looks as if it might be the rear sway bar end link, for whatever reason. gotta try parts store in morning again, and gonna ahve em pull up a rear sway bar end link and see what it looks like...and this is the way it goes on. with the "ball joint type" end at the top. the lower broken piece was bushing'd and washere'd thru the lower control arm.
BUT!!!!...
I also found this online. a pic of a 95 4runner with the same style piece, but only the opposite way. so maybe mine is right...somwehat...i could use some help with the knowledge of "is my broken one, the correct one and if so...where can i get one" I am gonna call the delaership tomorrow as well. luckily their parts dept. is open 8-noon on saturdays.
look to the far left of the sway bar.
anyway. so far, im gonna detail this as much as possible. i have yet to find the proper documents on how to do this job. so far it's one piece at a time. maybe my experiences will save the next guy some headaches.
Dutch
here , i took the time to snap some pics after cleaning all the parts and taking a piece count.
these are the two spindle nuts. (2 1/8" socket). look real close...yup. someone was here before me. see them chisel marks? someone apperently didnt have the socket needed. btw.when i applied the ol monster socket. these nuts literally spun loose with the weight of the ratchet. someone was def. here and did a horrible job. I later found out, under all the grease. the lower control arm was replaced. found salvage yard markings.
here's the socket,ratchet needed. 3/4" drive is the only drive to accomodate this socket. plus the "mmpf" to break em loose...when their properly tightened. you'll notice the seal puller. worthless for removing the inner wheel bearing seal. see the firemans pry bar above? that worked way better. one good heaving pry and the seal popped right out. the seal puller. i worked that thing for 20mins and just slightly bent the seal. didnt even break it loose.
when re-installing the inner wheel bearing seal. I lubed it real good with bearing grease (the same grease I used to repack the wheel bearings) and used a clean smooth 2x4 to "TAP" it into place. nice n even. PS...the seal has a number laser printed on it. that goes to the outside.
the notorius junk tie rod end pickle fork. see how it spread? that was after about 3 swings of the hammer. eventually ended up heating it up and BFH-ing it out. and yes. plenty of penetrating spray,brake cleaner and a good wheel bearing grease. TIP: when repacking the wheel bearings. I do this the old school way. by hand. got me a good pair of all purpose rubber gloves, rather lightweight pair too. these worked great while messing in the grease to hand pack the bearings.
new shaft. outer end (mates to backing plate). whats missing?
the dust cap/seal...which i just lightly tapped off, around and around, with a brass punch (or old screwdriver)
...BUT DO NOT DAMAGE THIS PIECE BY ANY MEANS. IT'S PRACTICALLY IRREPLACE-ABLE!!! i dare you to try n locate this piece at an auto parts store. when i cleaned this piece. I just used a clean shop rag. no solvents or cleaners of any kind. I didnt want to take a chance and damage the rubber. i will grease the rubber as the mating backing plate is greased as well.
dust ring installed on new shaft. just lightyl tap on with soft hammer.
Ball joint seperator. I "borrowed" this one from Pep Boys for a $100 deposit, fully refundable after return within 10 days. most auto parts stores have a tool borrowing program. just ask em. and they have all the odd ball, one time use tools. so no need to make undue purchases. unless you plan on doing this for a living.
and last but not least. the broken, front anti-sway bar end link. this is not what the book calls for, from any parts store ive contacted and visited with this part in hand to match. no luck...anywhere. the stores offer the original end link. the standard bolt with a spacer in the middle, washers,bushngs, (which then seats on lower control arm and the other end in the sway bar end). what i thought i found online tonite...it looks as if it might be the rear sway bar end link, for whatever reason. gotta try parts store in morning again, and gonna ahve em pull up a rear sway bar end link and see what it looks like...and this is the way it goes on. with the "ball joint type" end at the top. the lower broken piece was bushing'd and washere'd thru the lower control arm.
BUT!!!!...
I also found this online. a pic of a 95 4runner with the same style piece, but only the opposite way. so maybe mine is right...somwehat...i could use some help with the knowledge of "is my broken one, the correct one and if so...where can i get one" I am gonna call the delaership tomorrow as well. luckily their parts dept. is open 8-noon on saturdays.
look to the far left of the sway bar.
anyway. so far, im gonna detail this as much as possible. i have yet to find the proper documents on how to do this job. so far it's one piece at a time. maybe my experiences will save the next guy some headaches.
Dutch
Last edited by dutchboy; 08-03-2007 at 09:02 PM.
08-03-2007, 09:14 PM
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On a 2nd gen you don't have to remove the spindle nut to replace the shaft, just if you want to repack the wheel bearings, and it's a 54mm. You won't be able to test the CV joint by shaking the wheel, that'll just test the wheel bearings.
If you want to replace the shaft it's not too hard, not really any special tools needed. You don't need to drop the diff. These instructions are fairly easy to follow.
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/cv_r&r.htm
If you want to replace the shaft it's not too hard, not really any special tools needed. You don't need to drop the diff. These instructions are fairly easy to follow.
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/cv_r&r.htm
This is the person's quote...
"Gotta get under the truck to remove the 6 nuts connecting
the drive axle to the diff output. These are tightened
pretty tight, I had to use my big breaker bar. Looking
back, it would have been better to do these first with the
front diff in 4x4 so the axle would be effectively locked.
Since mine was spinning I put a box-end wrench on the bolt
and let the axle spin enough to catch on the A-arm or frame
or whatever."
wont work on front differentials that are the "non manual locking type".
meaning, my front axle i can shift into 4x4 on the fly.
anyway...if it's locked in from driving and shifting into 4x4 on the fly. as soon as you park the vehicle and turn the key off. the front axle disengages and goes into a "free spin" mode until ignition is turned back on again.
why?
electric locking front differential.
what works?
leave the brake caliper on until AFTER, all necc. bolts and nuts are broken loose. get a friend to hold the floor brake.
Just a tip from a lesson learned today.
Dutch
Last edited by dutchboy; 08-03-2007 at 09:15 PM.
08-03-2007, 09:24 PM
#34
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got yer email. the "sway bar end link" that i was refering too. is also known as the "stabilzer bar". look in the pics i posted...the broken piece. thats the end link. i need this piece, but the parts stores and in the email you sent me. all show that this is def. not the right piece, i need to find out what it;s from so i can replace it. i cant afford (right now) to replace the entire sway bar with the proper one.
08-03-2007, 09:32 PM
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I read this link and noticed something, that "wont" work...
This is the person's quote...
"Gotta get under the truck to remove the 6 nuts connecting
the drive axle to the diff output. These are tightened
pretty tight, I had to use my big breaker bar. Looking
back, it would have been better to do these first with the
front diff in 4x4 so the axle would be effectively locked.
Since mine was spinning I put a box-end wrench on the bolt
and let the axle spin enough to catch on the A-arm or frame
or whatever."
wont work on front differentials that are the "non manual locking type".
meaning, my front axle i can shift into 4x4 on the fly.
anyway...if it's locked in from driving and shifting into 4x4 on the fly. as soon as you park the vehicle and turn the key off. the front axle disengages and goes into a "free spin" mode until ignition is turned back on again.
why?
electric locking front differential.
what works?
leave the brake caliper on until AFTER, all necc. bolts and nuts are broken loose. get a friend to hold the floor brake.
Just a tip from a lesson learned today.
Dutch
This is the person's quote...
"Gotta get under the truck to remove the 6 nuts connecting
the drive axle to the diff output. These are tightened
pretty tight, I had to use my big breaker bar. Looking
back, it would have been better to do these first with the
front diff in 4x4 so the axle would be effectively locked.
Since mine was spinning I put a box-end wrench on the bolt
and let the axle spin enough to catch on the A-arm or frame
or whatever."
wont work on front differentials that are the "non manual locking type".
meaning, my front axle i can shift into 4x4 on the fly.
anyway...if it's locked in from driving and shifting into 4x4 on the fly. as soon as you park the vehicle and turn the key off. the front axle disengages and goes into a "free spin" mode until ignition is turned back on again.
why?
electric locking front differential.
what works?
leave the brake caliper on until AFTER, all necc. bolts and nuts are broken loose. get a friend to hold the floor brake.
Just a tip from a lesson learned today.
Dutch
08-04-2007, 07:02 AM
#37
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but did it stay locked in 4 wheel drive once you shut the engine off?
btw...the sway bar end link you pictured is exactly what mine looks like. thank you so much!
btw...the sway bar end link you pictured is exactly what mine looks like. thank you so much!
08-04-2007, 08:50 AM
#38
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sway bar end link...wrong!!!
hey, i was at 3 different parts stores AND the dealership...no listing for this part the way it looks (in your pic and mine). they all gimme the standard end link kit. is your front sway bar stock? original to the vehicle?
cuase i also had them look up the year ,make,model of your ride...and still no listing of this part on the front sway bar.
it looks like the rear one...upside down.
right as i was leaving Pep Boys, the one parts dude tells me he can get the part...it is off the front of a 4runner (same years)...he has to make a phone call...and he wants $100 for the part. claims it comes new with all the hardware. is this too hard to believe for his price?
someone has to know about this. in your pic...it looks stock, but yet EVERYONE at the toyota dealership disagrees and never seen this part...wtf?
what started out as a cv joint has turned into a nightmare of parts locating for all the odds n ends.
if you have any clue where i can get this end link for less than $100...please....lemme know.
thanx
hey, i was at 3 different parts stores AND the dealership...no listing for this part the way it looks (in your pic and mine). they all gimme the standard end link kit. is your front sway bar stock? original to the vehicle?
cuase i also had them look up the year ,make,model of your ride...and still no listing of this part on the front sway bar.
it looks like the rear one...upside down.
right as i was leaving Pep Boys, the one parts dude tells me he can get the part...it is off the front of a 4runner (same years)...he has to make a phone call...and he wants $100 for the part. claims it comes new with all the hardware. is this too hard to believe for his price?
someone has to know about this. in your pic...it looks stock, but yet EVERYONE at the toyota dealership disagrees and never seen this part...wtf?
what started out as a cv joint has turned into a nightmare of parts locating for all the odds n ends.
if you have any clue where i can get this end link for less than $100...please....lemme know.
thanx
08-04-2007, 09:31 AM
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got me the part!
got me the part!
OK...well, this is news to me. after talking with the guy at pep boys, hearing that he can get it for $100. i called back to toyota...gave em my VIN number.
sure enough. he said the pic of the part came up on his computer and he has one in stock for $70...no hardware though.
so...lesson learned.
when replacing ANY part on a toyota. HAVE THE VIN NUMBER HANDY!!!
toyota apperently likes to change designs every 6 months to ward off after market parts maunfacturers.
(this has got to be expensive for them, to re-tool all their machinery. thus...passing that buck onto the consumer...I.E. ...me)
OK...well, this is news to me. after talking with the guy at pep boys, hearing that he can get it for $100. i called back to toyota...gave em my VIN number.
sure enough. he said the pic of the part came up on his computer and he has one in stock for $70...no hardware though.
so...lesson learned.
when replacing ANY part on a toyota. HAVE THE VIN NUMBER HANDY!!!
toyota apperently likes to change designs every 6 months to ward off after market parts maunfacturers.
(this has got to be expensive for them, to re-tool all their machinery. thus...passing that buck onto the consumer...I.E. ...me)
08-04-2007, 11:20 AM
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Update
OK,, so i found the sway bar end link , minus hardware, at the dealership (via VIN number). that prob's outta the way till monday when i can pick the part up.
started to reassemble cv/axle shaft. was not able to get splined bolts backed outta the way, but before i even tried that. this "hub"
i noticed about 1/4" or less of "in n out" play. is this normal?
doesnt appear to be bad, i dont off road. so i should be ok, yes?
*NOTE* i think i mentioned b4, that this 4 runner was in a front end collision. (after replacing every leaking orifice gasket in the drive line, short of the rear main and the tranny front main) replaced radiator, power steering pump leaks, yadda,yadda,yadda.
i was able to manipulate the shaft in place by doin a littly upsy downsy with a small floor jack under the lower control arm. the only thing was, the brass end plate on the inner knuckle assembly came off. it's just lightly pressed in place to retain the grease. i got it up in place, used a long thin screwdriver to hold it in place while threading the nuts on. spun it around and did the same process the whole way around. brass end plate seated really nicely.
torqued the hub/axle nuts to 60ft lbs in a star pattern.
before assembly...do two imprtant steps. spray the inside spindle with white lithium grese.
and clean the seal mating surface behind the backing plate.
again, afraid to damage rubber seal, i just used a dry shop rag, nice n easy. after cleaning and inspecting. i greased her up with some wheel bearing grease. this will also help hold the seal in place while man-handling the shaft in. originally, i put it on the shaft 1st, but b4 i even got started, i knew if i kept goin that way. i wouyld destroy the seal upon installation. remembering that the shaft rode hard against lower control arm on the way out.
seal and shaft in place
again
spindle and spindle before hub assembly. notice the white lithium grease from pre lubing the inner spindle
and their ya have it. shaft in. never took "splined" bolts outta inner hub, never seperated upper or lower ball joints. just some good ol thinking and pre thinking before any attempts. as neanderthal as it is for me to do this in the driveway. it can be done!
started to reassemble cv/axle shaft. was not able to get splined bolts backed outta the way, but before i even tried that. this "hub"
i noticed about 1/4" or less of "in n out" play. is this normal?
doesnt appear to be bad, i dont off road. so i should be ok, yes?
*NOTE* i think i mentioned b4, that this 4 runner was in a front end collision. (after replacing every leaking orifice gasket in the drive line, short of the rear main and the tranny front main) replaced radiator, power steering pump leaks, yadda,yadda,yadda.
i was able to manipulate the shaft in place by doin a littly upsy downsy with a small floor jack under the lower control arm. the only thing was, the brass end plate on the inner knuckle assembly came off. it's just lightly pressed in place to retain the grease. i got it up in place, used a long thin screwdriver to hold it in place while threading the nuts on. spun it around and did the same process the whole way around. brass end plate seated really nicely.
torqued the hub/axle nuts to 60ft lbs in a star pattern.
before assembly...do two imprtant steps. spray the inside spindle with white lithium grese.
and clean the seal mating surface behind the backing plate.
again, afraid to damage rubber seal, i just used a dry shop rag, nice n easy. after cleaning and inspecting. i greased her up with some wheel bearing grease. this will also help hold the seal in place while man-handling the shaft in. originally, i put it on the shaft 1st, but b4 i even got started, i knew if i kept goin that way. i wouyld destroy the seal upon installation. remembering that the shaft rode hard against lower control arm on the way out.
seal and shaft in place
again
spindle and spindle before hub assembly. notice the white lithium grease from pre lubing the inner spindle
and their ya have it. shaft in. never took "splined" bolts outta inner hub, never seperated upper or lower ball joints. just some good ol thinking and pre thinking before any attempts. as neanderthal as it is for me to do this in the driveway. it can be done!
