Cold-Air Intake from EBAY
#41
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How about a dual pyrometer set up, one mounted downstream right before the thottle body and one external on the fender near where the airbox would be?
#42
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i think what we have forgotten about in the cold air intake debate (me included), is the fact that the two definate advantages they have, is the stock air box will collect and hold water in a water crossing situation and they have more surface area so they will not restrict air flow when (if) they start to become clogged. granted both of these are offroad situations, but they do offer advantages over the oem filterbox combo other than a horsepower increase.
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Update...
Ok so I went to Home Depot this morning and put together an intake pipe with flexible rubber hoses. Below is a picture of it. Cost $30 in parts and some elbow grease to cut the 3'' piece of ABS down to the right length of the old intake pipe + cutting the 90 degree 3'' elbows to fit which was easy.
No leaks for air and engine seems to run pretty good. Better low end throttle response than the CAI previously pictured. Added the K&N drop in filter and did a partial deck plate hole in the front of the airbox. Hope you guys like it..I may stick with this set up because it not only looks cooler, flows better air but it's most likely smog legal again.
No leaks for air and engine seems to run pretty good. Better low end throttle response than the CAI previously pictured. Added the K&N drop in filter and did a partial deck plate hole in the front of the airbox. Hope you guys like it..I may stick with this set up because it not only looks cooler, flows better air but it's most likely smog legal again.
#44
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Well since the burden of proof is technically on those who say the temps are higher and that the CAI is a waste I'd like for them to show Intake air temp readings so that it gives validity to what they claim. I'd be more than willing to put the stock box back in for good if they can show me otherwise.
I fully intend to get my own dedicated datalogger and various sensors so I can do this kind of testing simply to answer my own questions. In fact, I could probably put together a completely serviceable one with an unused MegaSquirt and the sensors I already have. Will I go to that trouble for the purposes of this thread, though? Probably not.
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This is an example of two fallacies of argumentation. The first one is placing the burden of proof on us when it's on you and the second is appealing to ignorance. The latter basically means that absence of contrary evidence is proof of truth. In this case, the second fallacy is used to prop up the first. I know the discussion has steered a different direction, but I thought I that was worth pointing out.
I fully intend to get my own dedicated datalogger and various sensors so I can do this kind of testing simply to answer my own questions. In fact, I could probably put together a completely serviceable one with an unused MegaSquirt and the sensors I already have. Will I go to that trouble for the purposes of this thread, though? Probably not.
I fully intend to get my own dedicated datalogger and various sensors so I can do this kind of testing simply to answer my own questions. In fact, I could probably put together a completely serviceable one with an unused MegaSquirt and the sensors I already have. Will I go to that trouble for the purposes of this thread, though? Probably not.
I didn't ask for opinions originally just showed a photo report of a "CAI" system I bought off EBAY. Since it's off the truck and I like the one I built today better, I could care less. I challenge you to do air temp tests with a CAI because I am very interested in the research data you come up with and I am sure it could be beneficial to everyone.
#47
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You know dynos often give you a false reading with cold air intakes because because the fan pointed at the front of your car cannot recreate what is really going on with a moving vehicle. Once you're going faster than 25 mph or so it's really all "cold air" by your intake.
Now, not to say there isn't improvements to be made, but I doubt you can just poit fingers at a single part like the air box and unlock a 10% power gain.
Now, not to say there isn't improvements to be made, but I doubt you can just poit fingers at a single part like the air box and unlock a 10% power gain.
#48
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Yeah. I'm just getting sucked into it. Ha. I want to see what my intake temps run anyway, and I might get some unscientific facts out of it. No luck with my temp probe searches today. I'm going cheap!
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#50
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Once you have a basic understanding of cold air and heat control you will understand that the 22re is no different a platform than race engines. My opinions are based on my experiences creating big hp from racing engines.
Last edited by "G"; 06-24-2012 at 03:36 PM.
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Yea, no...totally different platform, totally different needs with a stock intake and TB. Same goes with diesels, you don't need to have twin turbos on a stock engine nor do you really need a colder air intake on something tuned down to factory spec other than a factory airbox. A stock 22re's air needs are totally different than a race engine.
#52
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Like I said "Once you have a basic understanding of cold air and heat control"
Also once you have this basic knowledge you will save your self some $ because you won't buy these things from ebay.
Also once you have this basic knowledge you will save your self some $ because you won't buy these things from ebay.
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If fact supercedes your armchair science, then where does that leave your understanding of cold air and heat control. Mileage results show no difference between stock airbox and CAI and neither does power change. So that alone is proof race engines do not have the same needs as a stock engine alone. So if there's no gain or loss either way in power, mileage, etc..then maybe you should go back to the drawing board for some more basic understanding 101 , for $37 it's not bad bang for the buck since OEM filters cost $15-20 anyway...
Last edited by Gregs94Toy; 06-24-2012 at 03:53 PM.
#54
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Like I said my "armchair science" comes from years of building high hp turbo charged engines. I don't have time to explain my understanding in this thread. Read up on the subject before you make another bad purchase. No one is saying race engines require the same thing as a stock 22re. I am saying that once you have a basic understanding you will understand you wasted your money.
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Like I said my "armchair science" comes from years of building high hp turbo charged engines. I don't have time to explain my understanding in this thread. Read up on the subject before you make another bad purchase. No one is saying race engines require the same thing as a stock 22re. I am saying that once you have a basic understanding you will understand you wasted your money.
#57
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iTrader: (1)
http://www.full-race.com/store/therm...tive-film.html
I still have the K&N air in with stock box.
The Napa Gold filter is set up the same as stock but with less pleats at 25 pleats in the top of the filter.
Ok so I went to Home Depot this morning and put together an intake pipe with flexible rubber hoses. Below is a picture of it. Cost $30 in parts and some elbow grease to cut the 3'' piece of ABS down to the right length of the old intake pipe + cutting the 90 degree 3'' elbows to fit which was easy.
No leaks for air and engine seems to run pretty good. Better low end throttle response than the CAI previously pictured. Added the K&N drop in filter and did a **partial deck plate hole in the front of the airbox. Hope you guys like it..I may stick with this set up because it not only looks cooler, flows better air but it's most likely smog legal again.
No leaks for air and engine seems to run pretty good. Better low end throttle response than the CAI previously pictured. Added the K&N drop in filter and did a **partial deck plate hole in the front of the airbox. Hope you guys like it..I may stick with this set up because it not only looks cooler, flows better air but it's most likely smog legal again.
Man that is so simple yet so smart....and cheap. Why didn't I think of that before I bought that expensive set up from LCE....?
Well, the LCE tube won't go on because the overflow tube on the radiator is on the engine side instead of along side and running parallel with the rad so it interferes with the fit. I have an idea of what I may do. I may cut off the tube in front of the neck and plug the hole with epoxy. And drill a hole and add a tube on the side of the neck with epoxy....but I may in the mean time go buy some 3" PVC and the rubber boots...
This thread has really heated up....as everyone knows the stock AFM on the 22re's is the bottleneck. Besides a bigger and straighter tube for smoother air flow to the motor, the Supra AFM with 3" outlet is prob the way to go. I am also a fan of using the stock box because the air comes from outside the truck and not the static air under the hood. I am not claiming to be an expert here but I think by using the air flowing into the stock box's intake from in front of the moving vehicle under speed, there will be more air coming in than by sucking air from under the hood. Strictly my opinion and thoughts....no facts to base it on. Has anyone ever tried this set up or made their own:
http://www.lceperformance.com/Mass-A...-p/1063070.htm
Now if you can take something like that and use the stock box with it, that would be something to use to lose the restriction of the AFM. I just don't like the cone filter under the hood. Thoughts....?
Found this one thread but there are probably more.......
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ersion-200643/
Last edited by daved5150; 06-30-2012 at 09:34 AM. Reason: Add more info
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