yotarover

i must be going through withdraws i miss my truck to much seeing it sit there, cant even think straight all i had to do was google and search I NEED MY TRUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ozziesironmanoffroad

stormin, i cant believe it actually gave up the ghost. i thought urs was gonna be one to have no problems... oh well cant win em all. so what u gonna do with it? rebuild the 3.0? or swap in a 3.4....
and rover, are you trying to spam or something? 3 posts within half an hour....

AuRunner93

Yeah, you're right TNRabbit. I got my lines crossed in my manual and saw the 142psi minimum as the standard. With the compression in the good cylinders basically normal, what's my most logical conclusion? This is now the 3rd HG to blow on this engine...the original, the recall, and now this one. What could cause chronic HG problems?

stormin94

Yeah, It sucks, but at least it didn't leave me stranded somewhere. I'm having the headgasket done as we speak. It shouldn't need a rebuild, and I'm lacking the funds to do a swap.

screech

Along the lines of head gaskets. Anyone changed one then during the inital run up blew it out!? yeah happened to me tonight. Also happened on my 22rte but that was because I followed haynes manual for the part of putting sealent on the block. Most retarded step I have ever seen in a manual.
I know the causes of head gaskets going on the 22re, bolts stretch, over heat. but seriously with all new parts! never even heard of a hg blowing so fast!

TNRabbit

1. Head or block not decked properly.
2. Improper torquing procedure.
3. Sucky aftermarket HG.

jackwolf

The problem is the different expansion rates of the the two metals in the block and the head, not so much the 170psi.

A FEL-PRO head set should do it for you.

Look at:

HS 9728 PT-1

It should have everything you need.

Also, your heads are warped and that is why they had to shave them flat. Never forget that warped heads are going back in, they have just been shaved flat so they can crush the head gasket, real nice.

Warped heads are nothing new. Especially, on Harley Davidson Evolution engines. They ALL either have warped heads or an oil leak. The shop manual even has a tolerance range for warped heads in these engines.




But that is another song and dance for another place and time.

Dirt Driver

This seems to be a topic often brought up and seldom the case from what I have seen. The 3VZ-E is one of those engines that has inherent problems keeping head gaskets. The 22R-E also has an iron block topped with aluminum and BHGs do happen, but are comparatively rare. It's the same case with the 1JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GTE, but the 7M-GTE is not so tolerant without milling the head/deck and a good gasket.

Jay351

Not really... The 22re blows headgaskets just as fast as the 3vze. Heck when you do the timing chain you are supposed to remove the head anyways. Last night I was reading a t-chain thread and 4 people in a row posted that their 22re hg blew that day..

Toyota always had headgaskets problems... Never really got it right.

jackwolf

It just seems like more of a chore when the 3VZE does it since, I believe, that there are some hot shots out there that can change a head gasket in a 22re faster than a person, not mechanically inclined, can rotate the tires.

My money is on the hotshot and the 22re.
but on the other when the 3VZE is involved. Bring a shoe horn.

I am going to stick with the expansion rate theory and I do so because it all revolves around, for the most part, the quality of the head gaskets. Toyota got the first batch, on the 3VZE, wrong. That is a for sure and not a for maybe.

You might be able to get away with cast iron heads on a cast iron block and NO head gasket AND you could do the same with the aluminum heads on a cast iron block but you would never get away with it.

Toyota did get it wrong. Not only was it a poor design the head gasket materials were substandard but only because of the mis matched metals involved. Cast iron heads would have made the sub standard factory gasket, for the most part, a non issue on the 3VZE. Or had the 3VZE been a an aluminum block and aluminum heads combo, that same sub standard head gasket would have sitting pretty.

Yes there are long lists of examples of mis matched metals on engines that are reliable but not because the are better designed, they may or may not be. In mismatched metal mating, the quality of the gasket is going to make you or break you at the end of the day when everything else has been weighed and measured.

annoyingrob

The 1JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GTE run multi-layer-steel (MLS) head gaskets from the factory. I think they did something right with those. How many JZ motors do you hear about with blown head gaskets?

DupermanDave

Be grateful it's headgaskets that blow and not anything mechanical like a valve or a sensor. Gaskets are cheap, but the sensors and labor isnt.

What about those copper sheet headgaskets from LC engineering. Are those worth the $120?

jackwolf

X2

The MLS gaskets are superduper and I'm pretty sure that you can get them installed on a 3VZE but you need some mill work done. Which is why people just go with FELPRO or even the second batch head gaskets from Toyota or what ever flavor floats their boat and does not require mill work.

Dirt Driver

That's must be why there are about 100 threads about blown 3VZ-E head gaskets for every single one involving a 22R-E and that the 22R-E was never issued a recall like the 3VZ-E.....

DupermanDave

X2

so what about those copper gaskets? Are they worth it?

91Toyota

x3

Dirt Driver

The most common complaint I hear, regardless of engine, is that they tend to seep coolant until everything warms up.

annoyingrob

yeah copper gaskets are a pain to seal properly. Steel gaskets are good, but you need the head and block machined as flat as possible to prevent them from leaking too. The benefit of copper is that they're usually reusable. You can get a copper adhesive spray for copper head gaskets, but I have my doubts about it.

Standard composite head gaskets are fine for 99% of the people out there. Unless you plan on running boost, a standard composite head gasket, and a good set of head studs are pretty damn good. If you're planning on running some super-high compression or lots of forced induction, look into metal.

stormin94

Ok so the heads are off, and I found the culprit. The rear right (drivers side) cylinder blew the headgasket. Included in the headgasket replacement will be: new exhaust manifold gaskets, new intake manifold gaskets, new head bolts. Also, some accessory-related items: new powersteering return line(it leaks) new A/C line(s) -whichever one leaks when we pull vacuum on the system.

On an interesting note, my timing belt tensioner pully seized shortly after removal. Very good timing to have that fail now, rather than down the road somewhere.

TNRabbit

Replace the upper idler while you're in there. Odds are it will be squealing in about 10k miles if you don't...

I HIGHLY recommend you use MLS gaskets & get both the heads & block resurfaced. I had to replace a HG 8k miles after rebuilding my entire engine due to not having them resurfaced...