f4stunna

i have a concern about wear on the bj spacer. this is a concern to me becuase it is only almuminum. also, i live in the northeast and salt corrosion is a big issue here too.....

any info on this?

elripster

Wear is not an issue. It's not a moving part that rubs against anything. It's "only" aluminum is true but it's Ok. That chunk of aluminum can hold hundreds of thousands of pounds of force in compression.

Aluminum does not have the corrosion issues that steel does but either way, rust will eat through the thin walls of the truck's frame centuries before it eats through a even 1.5" thick chunk of steel so don't sweat that.

Aluminum basically protects itself from corrosion by forming a layer of corrosion. Yep, that film you see on aluminum rims is what develops when the metal oxidizes. Unlike steel which continues to flake and rust, the corrosion process on aluminum slows to a crawl when the layer of oxidation forms.

Frank

f4stunna

any input on this?

elripster

Yes, I have input on that. Check out the vendors on our page. They have a system solutions for you which are tried and true. They have put kits together that solve and answer all of the above concerns.

I do not mean to shut you down or be rude, but what you are asking has been answered many many times on this and other forums. It would not be a bad idea to search a bit and if you don't find a particular, post it up.

Out trucks didn't come with autolockers at all. Do you mean limited slips? They were available with one for the rear. I never heard of a truck coming with a stock limited slip for the front but I suppose it's possible. I never check the gear code options for the front diff.

Frank

f4stunna

i ment that it still has the stock auto locking system to gauge the CV wear etc.... and by 2 differnt systems i ment the complete OME lift vs. the bj spacers and rear leaf springs (with or without new shocks)

as2sb3100

what?

f4stunna

refer to post #18 of this thread... i was asking general questions about the two lifts i was considering and their potention side effects

desertyodaboy

im still a little confused on that one

f4stunna

im debating weither i should get OME rear leaf springs, all 4 shocks, and Bj spacers or the complete OME kit for my 91 4X4...

i asked about the potential wear differences bewteen the two

elripster

What do you mean by complete OME kit? I believe the only difference is whether or not you get the OME torsion bars or not. That question is easy to answer. You simply need to ask yourself if you want the suspension to flex more or less. If you want more flex, BJ spacers are for you. If you want less, stiffer torsion bars are for you. Spacers can be combined with any after market torsion bar to improve its flex characteristics.

The Doetsch Tech shock part numbers for the spacer lift is either 3069, 8069, or 9069. You can read more about each at

http://www.shocksandsuspension.com/showitems-dc-1.htm



Frank

elripster

Your truck as ADD, auto disconnecting differential. Mine does too.

I don't run manual hubs and have my front suspension set at 1" or so of lift and love it. It performs very well for IFS.

Frank

hodgepodge79

If you are doing BJ spacers in the front, and longer springs (or AAL or block) in the rear and need longer shocks on the cheap, check this out:

Longer front shocks for your 1.5" - 2.5" lift:'85-'96 Suzuki Samari, Gabriel Pro Guard p.n. 61549 ($21.99@autozone) or Monroe p.n. 59002 ($16.99@checker) I liked the Gabriels much better.

Longer rear shocks for your 1.5" - 2.5" lift: '98-'03 Dodge Durango 4x4 for 9.5" of travel, Gabriel Pro Guard p.n. 61658 ($21.99@autozone) or Monroe p.n. 59378 ($18.99@checker).
or for 10" of travel: '99-'06 Silverado/Sierra 1500 4x4, Gabriel Pro Guard p.n. 61642 ($21.99@autozone) or Monroe p.n. 59592 ($22.99@checker).

And whatever you end up doing in the rear, if you find that your stock u-bolts are too short, don't waste money getting longer, square ones. Spend the same money getting a u-bolt flip kit from one of the many vendors here.

liferunner2

Thanks for the info. About those Doestchtech shocks, I was looking at those before the OME. They are like $30/shock cheaper I think. Are the OME worth the extra $120 for the set, or is this money I could spend on something else. Also, if I did decide to go with the OME rear springs, would it be bad to pair them with a shock from a different manuf. I know that Downey matches some rear springs with DT shocks, but I can get the OME rear springs in a kit with the front BJ spacers for a really good price. Or I could go with the air bags, rear spacers and stock springs. WTF mate, I don't know what I want.

Chris

elripster

I hear lots of good things about Doetsch Tech and am going to purchase some of their shocks to try out. I'm going to swing by their place Thursday and speak with them first hand. Being where they are located, they should have tons of experience building shocks for demanding environments. Crawling doesn't challenge a shock at all. Desert wheeling does and that is very popular in San Diego.

I have said and will again, I really like the stock rear coils, coil spacers, and air shocks. They were easy on the wallet and work and ride really well.

Frank

desertyodaboy

Thanks elripster....I will be asking for some BJ spacers for Xmas...cant wait to put them on and give them a try.....I am going to be doing it myself so all the tips are very welcomed and appreciated from anyone!

AxleIke

Just for informations sake, OME Torsions are really the only torsions you should step up to.

I have them. After the addition of heavy aftermarket front end parts, I found my stock bars lacking. My front A-arms are relaxed back to stock, since after lifting the front, I constantly destroyed my steering.

I found that on a good bump on road, even with the BJ spacers, I would bottom out.

What I'm saying is: if you have aftermarket bumpers and the like, you may wish to upgrade. Otherwise, stay stock.

liferunner2

A question, are the Doetsch Tech shocks loop-loop or pin-loop for a '95 4runner. I think I'm going to go with these instead of OME and save about $120 for something else. Thanks for the info. all.

elripster

The shocks are what they need to be. I guess I don't understand the question? You order shocks for the front you get a stem and hoop, the rear two hoops.

If you have more questions I would suggest calling Doetsch Tech directly, they are pretty helpful. The only thing you need to do if you order is insist you need the 10-15.5" travel range which is similar to the Rancho shock for Samuris with 2" lifts. They quoted me the wrong number with dimensions exactly the same as the Monroe's I have now which are too short and are shimmed.

That's why I'm going to head over to their shop tomorrow and show them the truck. That way they can see first hand the shock range of travel.

Frank

liferunner2

Elripster,

I just talked with some people at DT (real nice), but anyway the part numbers they gave me for a '95 4runner with 1.5" lift were 8434,front and 8182,rear. Do you know if these are right? The person on the other end of the phone and I just picked them by application and amount of lift, not actual dimensions of shock needed, as I wouldn't have been able to provide that info. anyhow (I don't know to be honest). What should the dimensions be and if you have the part numbers I can call them back at DT. Thanks.

Chris

elripster

I'd hold off until tomorrow. That's the number they gave me. However, that shock has dimensions similar to the Monroe's that I have and these are too short. The Rancho 5167 which is for the Samuri has 10.16/15.78" dimensions.
The stock shock has 9.26/13.97" dimensions and is too short be about .5". Therefore, I conclude a shock that has 10" to at least 14.5" dimensions will work. Doetsch Tech make shocks with a 10-15" stroke and should work. Maybe I'll call them back.

edit: I have just called them and they have two options. One is a 9.5"-14.5" and another is the 10"-15.5". They are researching which one they want to recommend.

Frank