Bedlining the interior - Wires everywhere?!
#23
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You can move them out of the way with bungee cords as mentioned earlier, just dont pull on them too hard. Or you can do what I did and remove them completely.
#25
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I'll be covering the floor with POR15 instead of bedliner. The picture is from a couple days ago. I removed the adhesive yesterday and will paint the POR15 on when the humidity dies down. The sound deadening just popped off from the front part of the floor. You can thank the leaking heater core and windshield for that. The rear part of the floor took a little more work. I used a flexable putty knife about 1½" wide and a small hammer. It took less than 2 hours to remove it. Take your time so you dont scratch the factory paint or primer. I didn't. Too remove the adhesive left over I used some adhesive remover I found at a local bodyshop supply place. I stopped in and told the person at the counter what I was doing and he gave me this:
It was $23.00
Spray it on, wait about 2 minutes and gently scrape the remaining adhesive off. Spray some more on and wait about 1 minute, then hose it off.
Don't scrub the floor with anything (brush, Scotchbrite pad) while the remover is on it, it will just make a mess. Do this outside if you can, or be preaperd to have alot of water on the garage floor.
It was $23.00
Spray it on, wait about 2 minutes and gently scrape the remaining adhesive off. Spray some more on and wait about 1 minute, then hose it off.
Don't scrub the floor with anything (brush, Scotchbrite pad) while the remover is on it, it will just make a mess. Do this outside if you can, or be preaperd to have alot of water on the garage floor.
Last edited by HAVOC; 07-28-2008 at 01:30 AM.
#26
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
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Por is great stuff, just also use the metal ready prep, it really helps with etching the surface so the por adherse better.
Why would you not want to scratch the factory floor paint? Por works on seasoned metal surfaces and rusty metal, it even says NOT to put it over paint cause it wont last. And herculiner well you HAVE TO scratch the surface for that to adhere. Just curious.
Why would you not want to scratch the factory floor paint? Por works on seasoned metal surfaces and rusty metal, it even says NOT to put it over paint cause it wont last. And herculiner well you HAVE TO scratch the surface for that to adhere. Just curious.
#27
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insulation/sound deadner
Someone told me that dry ice would work to remove the insulation/sound deadner. It should just break up after frozen. I've yet to try it b/c I'm lazy!
#28
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Rochester NY
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Funny, i just started this same project last night, then see this thread this morning. I'm half way through peeling up the sound deadener. What did you guys do about rust on the floorboards before bedlining the interior? i thought i'd just use the wire wheel on angle grinder, but i want to be sure i have it all up so it doesnt' come back to haunt me. (my truck suffers from badly leaking windshield, rust is on the DS in the pedal area)
#29
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Before I sold my 86 runner project, I had found a cold chisel and hammer would smash the sound deadening up quite well b/c it was brittle. I removed the rest using the chisel as a poker and then took a heavy gauge abrasive wheel, wire wheels in my HD drill and went to work. I removed rust in some areas that was so deep I went down to pitted metal.
Be warned, it takes time and its hell on the knees and back..
Be warned, it takes time and its hell on the knees and back..
#30
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Rochester NY
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You didnt have problems with the rust coming back at all after the fact? thats my big concern. I lack a welder, so doing metal repair isn't realistic right now. also, I noticed when i pulled my carpet that my seats are not the factory ones, seeing as how the PO had to drill new holes in the floor (the seat frame is about 2 inches smaller side to side than the factory mount holes would suggest it should be)
#32
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DRY ICE DRY ICE DRY ICE break up the ice let it sit on the floor for a few seconds 20-30 then tap the floor with hammer and bam. Way easier than scraping guranteed. This is what we use to lighten street cars.
#36
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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i appreciate it. we had some in 4th grade science class, but that was 15 or more years ago. I'm gonna give it a try, cause i spent WAY too much time with a hammer and a putty knife, and i'm only like 1/4 done.
#39
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thanks. the road noise actually isnt as bad as thought it would be, honestly i cant really tell much of a difference but thats probably because my exhaust is pretty loud, but i am very pleased with the results