94 xtra cab 4x4 suspension lift
10-28-2007, 08:13 PM
#21
Contributing Member
Want travel/flex?
Keep it stock height. BJ spacers + relaxed tbars + low profile bumps for compression in the front, longer shocks, brake lines and lose the sway bars and it'll flex pretty good for little/no money.
Keep it stock height. BJ spacers + relaxed tbars + low profile bumps for compression in the front, longer shocks, brake lines and lose the sway bars and it'll flex pretty good for little/no money.
10-29-2007, 05:58 AM
#23
Contributing Member
Enough.
Seriously, if you're interested in "inches" or ramp numbers you're gonna have to spend some bank and SAS.
The truck performs best when it's balanced front and rear, and you're only gonna get so much out of the IFS, so a ton of rear flex is "wasted" IMHO.
Seriously, if you're interested in "inches" or ramp numbers you're gonna have to spend some bank and SAS.
The truck performs best when it's balanced front and rear, and you're only gonna get so much out of the IFS, so a ton of rear flex is "wasted" IMHO.
10-29-2007, 06:50 AM
#24
Registered User
It is good to try to keep all 4 tires on the ground, however, if trail prowess is what you are after, flex comes in second to lockers (traction).
Lifting the front a bit will improve flex some and also allow you to absorb larger hits without bottoming. That can be nice if you are playing in sand dunes or on fire roads.
One thing to remember and this is not a good or bad thing, just an observation, when the truck is crossed up, the part of the truck with the most easily flexed suspension will flex the most (duh). You could find that the front flexes very little and the rear a lot if you have very soft rear springs. However, you might also find you have all 4 tires on the ground when that person with stiff rear suspension, who's front end seems to be flexing more, is lifting a wheel and losing more traction as a result.
However, the guy with little lift and bald tires but with a locker will out perform both of the above mentioned trucks if they have open diffs.
Frank
Lifting the front a bit will improve flex some and also allow you to absorb larger hits without bottoming. That can be nice if you are playing in sand dunes or on fire roads.
One thing to remember and this is not a good or bad thing, just an observation, when the truck is crossed up, the part of the truck with the most easily flexed suspension will flex the most (duh). You could find that the front flexes very little and the rear a lot if you have very soft rear springs. However, you might also find you have all 4 tires on the ground when that person with stiff rear suspension, who's front end seems to be flexing more, is lifting a wheel and losing more traction as a result.
However, the guy with little lift and bald tires but with a locker will out perform both of the above mentioned trucks if they have open diffs.
Frank
10-29-2007, 06:53 AM
#25
Registered User
Really, you should try to save up for a locker. You won't be disappointed.
I have wheeled in my friends Pinzgauer which is a front/rear independent suspension flexless machine with lockers front and rear. It spanks built flexy trucks on the trail that have only one locker.
Frank
10-29-2007, 03:09 PM
#29
Registered User
I see, yeah an auto locker is not for you. A Truetrac will will help especially with some ebrake assistance but it's not terribly cheap. I love them in the snow though. If you can find one used it would be a worthwhile upgrade to tide you over until the ARB.
Frank
Frank
10-29-2007, 09:25 PM
#32
Registered User
I drove around an 80 toy on big tires here in Colorado with a detroit in the rear. It really was not bad in the winter. I'd say the worst part about it is it limited 2wd snowdriving but if you put it in 4wd, you were ahead of the rest. As far as really cheap rear lift, you've got it, a block. A shackle might suit you a litte better than a block but new springs would be the way to go.
10-30-2007, 05:27 AM
#33
Contributing Member
I do not recommend blocks. Shackles are a bandaid, but work.
Both OME and Downey sell springs that will keep you well under 3" and provide you with a little more flex than stock. If you put chevies on, you'll have a bunch of flex in the rear, but still none up front. And since you want to SAS, you'll not be staying under 3" for long. Get the cheap springs that fit in the stock location stay under 3", then when you go SAS and sky high, you can get the longer springs.
Both OME and Downey sell springs that will keep you well under 3" and provide you with a little more flex than stock. If you put chevies on, you'll have a bunch of flex in the rear, but still none up front. And since you want to SAS, you'll not be staying under 3" for long. Get the cheap springs that fit in the stock location stay under 3", then when you go SAS and sky high, you can get the longer springs.
10-30-2007, 06:07 PM
#34
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Damn, my truck is stock and flexes more than that, take out the booty fab blocks and the T-Bar crank, and get some balljoint spacers and longer shackles, a good set of shocks can always help. Also take that junk ass sway bar off of it! 
10-31-2007, 07:50 AM
#37
Registered User
10-31-2007, 02:50 PM
#39
Registered User
Not much, .5"? I never actually measured it, I just hold the spacer up under the a-arm and trim a little. If I need more, I trim a little more. It's very easy to do. If you use a 4" cutoff wheel it goes real quick. Do NOT grind because it takes much much longer.
Frank
Frank
