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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 08-17-2005, 05:13 AM   #1
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89 FRONT power window relay where is it ??

My Brother in law has an 89 Toyota 4Runner with the 3.0L Engine.

His power windows stopped working in him, So I offered to come over and help him fix his problem. Well 3 hours later, and still nothing.

We are not getting power to the switches. anyone know where the relay is ?

IT IS NOT HERE Like mentioned on 4Crawlers Site
Click the image to open in full size.

We looked all under the dash, Nothing, in the kick pannels, behind the seat belt re-tractor,

Some one on here must know !

I searched. no luck.
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:15 AM   #2
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u check the fuses ?
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Old 08-18-2005, 04:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton
u check the fuses ?
Oh yeah a couple times. Unless those are hiddin somewhere special
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Old 08-18-2005, 05:22 AM   #4
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Help

BUMP anyone ?

Where is the power window fuse ? I check all the fuses under the dash and under the hood.

HELP
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:00 PM   #5
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theres 3 places for the fuse block kick panel under the dash pessenger side under the hood my book says that relays are not 2 far from what they power
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Old 08-18-2005, 03:01 PM   #6
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The fuse for it is labeled of all things "Power CB " (It's a circuit breaker.)
It's in or attached to the main fuse panel in the left kick panel.
See the diagrams I put up in the other thread, might help.
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Old 08-19-2005, 08:44 AM   #7
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Power Windows Fix

Seems on the later 1st gen Runners they use a Power Window Module not a relay, Toyota wanted $419 Cdn plus 15% Tax for this puppy. (Stupid Stealerships)

FIX:

Run a power line from the battery with a 30AMP fuse, into the door. Splice this Power line into the Blue Wire with Red Stripe (Located: Drivers Side Window Switches)

This Bypasses the Power Window Module all together. The neat part is that the windows will go up and down with out the key in the ignition.
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:17 AM   #8
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passenger window relay?

This seemed like the right place to continue this topic.

were is the exact location for the passenger side window relay? on a 1st Gen
Is it a single relay or a relay window regulator module?
Is there a seperate module for the drivers side?

the passenger & driver circuit breakers i have found under the driver kick panel on the fuse panel. The window relays are noton this panel or on the "Interlock/ regulator module"behind the driver side panel.

My symptoms are classic Relay problems, starting intermittently.
These modules are simply & cheaply repairable, if you can find them.
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Old 05-13-2006, 07:50 AM   #9
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Ok, this is what i have found so that other searchers don't reach a complete dead-end.

this is applicable on my 86runner & possible with 86-89.

-the drivers side kick fuse panel is different than "4crawlers" 85, although it does house the "driver & pass Window CB's" (circuit breakers).

-the relay module is labeld ( Door Control ) <Toy p/n: 85980-89101 >, <ND p/n: 051500-0930 >. Located about 6" above right of the Kick fuse panel. [This module seems to be more of a logic timer device meaning that the windows will work for a few mins after the key is removed, which was a surprise to me. In my case this was disabled due to a burned open trace on the module circuit board.] aside from this, the module was fine, allowing I to flow through to the drivers sw's.

-symptoms: (passenger window failure.) started w/passenger window switch was intermittent. over time the passenger sw didn't work at all & finally over more time, it couldn't be controled from the drivers side.

- the problem, like everyone says, the door sw's. even after cleaning all of the contacts, was not solving the problem. What i found was mild oxide growth on the "rivotted contacts" (between the rivots & the bus tracing), which had continuity and allowed I to flow, but prohibited enough to actuate the window motor. Each contact had only about 2ohms, but adding every contact that I has to passthrough was enough.
I started with some soldering to the window lock sw "contact rivot" {(on the driver door sw panel) (which opens a path to ground) if this is open there will still be +V at the passenger side sw}, then the window was intermittent. so i did the rest (both driver/pass sides) & good as new. the door locks work again too.

- the fix: on the very back of the window sw's,you will see these rivoted contacts.
clean w/ emmory cloth,
clean w/ water (nutralizes oxide),
rinse w/ IP alcohol. (contact cleaners will make the plastic brittle)
apply solder to bridge the rivots to the bus tracing. (on the back)
apply dialectric grease (where the switch rockers ride)

-conclusion: unless both windows are dead & no V at drivers side switch, the door ctrl module is fine.
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Old 03-16-2008, 12:14 PM   #10
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Power windows - 1st Gen

Looking for some help with PW's, since the info here does not seem to solve my problems. I have an 87 1st gen, 4cyl SR5

I have new switches, just installed.
Power door locks operate, but no juice to the window switches.
I can't find the Power window module/relay under the dash, so maybe I am not looking for the right thing? Anyone have a picture?
Circuit breaker seems to be re-set - I can push in there with small screwdriver, and nothing "clicks", so I assume it in re-set. Checked all fuses three times, and they are all good.

No power at the PW motor, either.

I see one solution where a fused power wire was run directly to the blue wire with red strip at the PW switch. Does this just power up the switch, or will it provide juice to both PW motors and fix my problem?

Thanks for any insight in to this issue!
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:45 PM   #11
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The power window relay is located on the passenger side kick panel. It's a little black box tucked way up out of sight. Grab the factory service manual and it will tell you how to check to see what is causing the problems.
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Old 12-20-2010, 03:15 PM   #12
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First time posting on this forum for me. I just wanted to put a few photos up on this thread. There where a couple people asking where the location of the Door Control unit was. So I have a pic of where it is located on a 89 V6 4Runner and also a pic of the unit itself.

Location= Passenger side behind the kick panel and the ECU
[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.[/IMG]

Unit= Small black box about the size of an iphone with one large rectangle plug
[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.[/IMG]
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:30 AM   #13
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Can someone confirm my conclusion on my 87 4runner 22re? I tested the circuities to the door control module according to the FSM and they were all good except the "courtesy switch" which I think is the light control. The light does not work. The window motors are good but the windows do not go up or down. I have no voltage at plugs to the door switches, and the switches are good. I think that I need a new door module. What do you think about getting a used one from my trusted Toyota truck wrecker? A new one costs about $250.00
Is this a thread hijack or am I posting correctly?
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Old 03-30-2011, 11:32 AM   #14
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door module

bump?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buck87 View Post
Can someone confirm my conclusion on my 87 4runner 22re? I tested the circuities to the door control module according to the FSM and they were all good except the "courtesy switch" which I think is the light control. The light does not work. The window motors are good but the windows do not go up or down. I have no voltage at plugs to the door switches, and the switches are good. I think that I need a new door module. What do you think about getting a used one from my trusted Toyota truck wrecker? A new one costs about $250.00
Is this a thread hijack or am I posting correctly?
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:03 AM   #15
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Pull the circuit board out and check the solder runs and the solder joints on the component legs. There is a good chance that there is an open solder run. I had this same symptom. take a strand of copper from a piece of mulitstranded copper wire and solder it across the open point. Just solder it to the leg of a component on that run to one on the other side of the open. Problem solved. That part is over $300 from toyotapartseast.com if they can even get it. It is obsolete.
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:27 PM   #16
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I bought a used module from my Toyota truck Junk yard. He Installed it for me to make sure the problem was solved, and helped me fix my rear window switch while I was at it. Only charged me for parts...$80 for the module and $35 for the rear window switch. I think Toy Connection in San Jose deserves a plug.
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:14 PM   #17
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i ditched my stupid door control relay board and made my own relay set up... i used two 5 pin relays and a 20amp fuse. now my power windows and doors work amazingly better!
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Old 09-21-2014, 01:27 PM   #18
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86 4runner door control module circuit board help

Quote:
Originally Posted by matstaley View Post
Pull the circuit board out and check the solder runs and the solder joints on the component legs. There is a good chance that there is an open solder run. I had this same symptom. take a strand of copper from a piece of mulitstranded copper wire and solder it across the open point. Just solder it to the leg of a component on that run to one on the other side of the open. Problem solved. That part is over $300 from toyotapartseast.com if they can even get it. It is obsolete.
Ok, so I am now part of the brotherhood of broken windows. Replaced switches, nothing. Checked motors by direct powering them, both work. Regulators work. No power is getting to the switches, so I believe it is a Door Control (85980-89101) issue, which brings me to your post, and a question...

What does an open solder run look like, and how do I go about checking to find one on the circuit board?

Also, what else can I possibly check...I mean, if I am not getting power to the switch through the plug, and the plugs run from the door control...then do I just need to trace all the wires?

Thanks ahead of time!
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Old 09-21-2014, 04:03 PM   #19
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1. Go to an electronics store and buy a roll of silver bearing solder.
2. Remove black box from the window module you just removed from the truck
3. Test continuity on the high current side of the unit. The door control switch works by reversing the polarity of the window motors with a timed logic circuit that controls the power. (key off, 30 seconds to roll up windows until power is cut)
4. The trace that always breaks is a small oval trace that is expected to handle something like 30A-- it does not do this very well and almost always blows, leaving an open circuit.

If you remove the circuit board and post a pic of it, I can show you which trace I am talking about.
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Old 09-21-2014, 04:14 PM   #20
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Duff,

Here you go man.

Click the image to open in full size.
Top of the board


Thanks!
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Last edited by ROBinCOS; 09-21-2014 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 09-21-2014, 04:14 PM
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