88 4x4 v6
#1
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Thread Starter
88 4x4 v6
1.do i have a timing belt or chain ?
2.is this engine an "interference type"
facts.
just bought.
350,000 miles
v6, grill says 3.0
what are the signs of a t/belt going bad (loud tensioners ?)
2.is this engine an "interference type"
facts.
just bought.
350,000 miles
v6, grill says 3.0
what are the signs of a t/belt going bad (loud tensioners ?)
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Thurston County WA State
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There is a timing belt.
Non-interference type engine.
I have one in my 94 that I am going to have replaced. Mine runs like crap, but it runs. Already have the engine and tranny (98 Tacoma 2.4 2RZ-FE/87 Turbo R151F) that will be going in sometime soon.
Non-interference type engine.
I have one in my 94 that I am going to have replaced. Mine runs like crap, but it runs. Already have the engine and tranny (98 Tacoma 2.4 2RZ-FE/87 Turbo R151F) that will be going in sometime soon.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
so.
let me get this straight (b/c im very methodical)
if this belt does break it will just need a new belt, no damage to the engine.
and
i would most likely hear the tensioners going long before this happens ?
let me get this straight (b/c im very methodical)
if this belt does break it will just need a new belt, no damage to the engine.
and
i would most likely hear the tensioners going long before this happens ?
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
and since your removing your old engine, may i have the alloy parts *(intake)
as i would like to polish it (like my bmw) as a little pic teaser
i have lots of questions, too.
like
how difficult is it to replace the t.belt.
adjust the valves *(cold or warm)
power tunes (port matching, headers, chips vs. longevity)
thanks
[IMG][/IMG]
as i would like to polish it (like my bmw) as a little pic teaser
i have lots of questions, too.
like
how difficult is it to replace the t.belt.
adjust the valves *(cold or warm)
power tunes (port matching, headers, chips vs. longevity)
thanks
[IMG][/IMG]
#5
Adjust the valves warm to ensure they're close to what they would be at operating temps because that's what matters most. That being said, you better get some practice removing all the crap that's in the way before you can get to the valve covers, before the engine cools down. I check/adjust mine cold, as it takes me awhile to get all that stuff out of the way.
My efforts as far as "tuning" my engine are a little limited. Though I've had some successes.
1.I unrestricted the exhaust by removing the muffler and hollowing out the cat. I would highly recommend doing both to anybody who isn't concerned with passing smog, or the increased noise.
2.Upgrades to ignition, 8mm solid-core spark plug wires, plugs gapped to .035"(NGK V-Power=cheap+good performance+re-gappable). Also highly recommended as a combo, just be sure to keep a good eye on your plugs. You want to stay within .001" or .002" of .035" in my experience. Requiring spark plug maintenance, a lost art in my book, or replacement more often. I'm not sure about that much gap with stock wires, it might not be as effective. I don't have a radio/sound system and nothing else electronically has been effected by switching to non-suppression wires. I've ran them for well over a year now with no trouble.
3.Ignition timing advancement to 20 degrees BTDC(on 87 octane fuel). Though that number may be a little much for all 3VZ's, it's downright critical for maximum power out of mine. Increased spark plug wear will occur if you don't change to a colder plug(not sure I recommend it though). Again, just keep an eye on them.
4.Blocked off EGR. Definetly a recommendation there.
That's all.
I'm plenty happy with what i've done so far, especially the price.
Oh, was this a 2-way conversation?
Last edited by MudHippy; 11-03-2007 at 01:42 PM.
#6
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If it is your DD and you are short on time... have a good dealer do it (there are such, at least in this area). Once it breaks, you have a possible towing charge, maybe less choice on the price and place it is done... and the cost will be at least as much as if you choose the time and place.
I had mine done just because it was not clear when it was done last. Cost me $288. They replaced the other belts... checked my water pump, tensioners etc. And they did it while the wife and I were out shopping.
The wife likes to drive the 4Runner, and, although no damage would occur if it had broken, I wasn't sure she could handle the sudden loss of power in all conditions. Why take a chance for something that will last another 60k miles.
The only trick is to find a dealer that you can trust. But there are such.
Just my opinion.
I had mine done just because it was not clear when it was done last. Cost me $288. They replaced the other belts... checked my water pump, tensioners etc. And they did it while the wife and I were out shopping.
The wife likes to drive the 4Runner, and, although no damage would occur if it had broken, I wasn't sure she could handle the sudden loss of power in all conditions. Why take a chance for something that will last another 60k miles.
The only trick is to find a dealer that you can trust. But there are such.
Just my opinion.
Last edited by rdharper; 11-03-2007 at 02:12 PM.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
thank you all.
i feel pretty confident i can do it, (someday) as I have done my bmw's twice sofar.
i will post again b/c this was completely answered.
1. non-interference engine (awesome, my bmw is an interference)
2. belt driven (no chains- bummer, but quieter)
3. 60,000 miles (more or much more)
i feel pretty confident i can do it, (someday) as I have done my bmw's twice sofar.
i will post again b/c this was completely answered.
1. non-interference engine (awesome, my bmw is an interference)
2. belt driven (no chains- bummer, but quieter)
3. 60,000 miles (more or much more)
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