87 yota 22r, runs good no power to it though
02-28-2007, 11:45 AM
#21
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From my experiencel me and my friend rebuilt his 22R, all stock rebuild stuff nothing fancy and we put on a weber carb, I forgot the name of it but its supposed to be THEE best carb for anything under 3 litres and his runs like crap compared to my old 22RE. Theres nothing wrong with it but it just doesnt have power, its got 33x12.50s and regeared to a 4.56 and it wont go 60mph either. My 22RE had 33s and it wouldnt go anything over 60 unless I was downhill but it wasnt regeared, you might just be experiencing a low power 4 cylinder for the first time?
02-28-2007, 12:04 PM
#22
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im not experiencing it for the first time, ive owned this truck once before and drove it down highways to get to silver lake and other wheelin spots and all of us which was like 4 yotas all 22re's except mine were all cruisin highway speeds of around 71-75 ish...Even mine with the same rims and tires i have now, I know this truck has more power to it then that....
Just tryin to get to 50-55 ish is a major chore...Shouldnt have to have it floored to floor, cuz wasnt like this before....I know they are nutless....but was alot better then this.
Just tryin to get to 50-55 ish is a major chore...Shouldnt have to have it floored to floor, cuz wasnt like this before....I know they are nutless....but was alot better then this.
02-28-2007, 12:19 PM
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does it smoking black, if on the wrong compression stroke i believe it would not even run, what it sounds like is a fuel problem, you have said exhuast is fine, i have at 40,000 replaced my toyota carb for my weber 32/36 ( i can explain later what that means if you care) I know have237,000on same carb again that dont matter of what brand you like it still should run ok unless its worn out also just for the hell of it change the fuel filter.
03-02-2007, 02:19 PM
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its not a slipping clutch.. Im not new to Cars and trucks. Been tuning and building hondas and VW/audis for many many years, Just not alot of back ground on carbed stuff.. and old school vacuum advanced timing.
timing has got to be on now(cam) tried both possible ways it could be, From what i read its on now...Says the little nubs are slightly angled towards intake and pin should be close to 12 o clock and at 0 on the pointer...This should be the same from 22r's and 22re's?
It runs the same, also put in new plugs just cuz maybe thought old ones were wrong ones.. But either way i have it to where it should be....
Borrowed a timing light and vacuum pump..Gonna mess with it some more tomorrow... any other ideas help alot..
timing has got to be on now(cam) tried both possible ways it could be, From what i read its on now...Says the little nubs are slightly angled towards intake and pin should be close to 12 o clock and at 0 on the pointer...This should be the same from 22r's and 22re's?
It runs the same, also put in new plugs just cuz maybe thought old ones were wrong ones.. But either way i have it to where it should be....
Borrowed a timing light and vacuum pump..Gonna mess with it some more tomorrow... any other ideas help alot..
03-02-2007, 08:38 PM
#26
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Firstly, the vacuum advance only affects the timing at idle, it advances it for emissions purposes. When you're actually driving, the weights within the distributor do all the timing advancing.
I would say that the choke might be stuck, but the lack of backfiring would lead me to dismiss that.
Has the carburetor been messed with at all? Is the fuel level about even with the middle of the glass window on the front of it?
Hose down the linkages on the carb with carb cleaner and work everything real good by hand to make sure everything moves as it should. I suppose the secondaries might not be opening, but I can sustain freeway speeds on just my primaries.
I would say that the choke might be stuck, but the lack of backfiring would lead me to dismiss that.
Has the carburetor been messed with at all? Is the fuel level about even with the middle of the glass window on the front of it?
Hose down the linkages on the carb with carb cleaner and work everything real good by hand to make sure everything moves as it should. I suppose the secondaries might not be opening, but I can sustain freeway speeds on just my primaries.
03-03-2007, 07:53 AM
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fuel level is right around the middle,linkages are pretty much clean..
gonna pull dizzy apart......just seems like it does advance maybe......since has good low end power but crappy top end and diesels when shuttin off still points me towards timing
gonna pull dizzy apart......just seems like it does advance maybe......since has good low end power but crappy top end and diesels when shuttin off still points me towards timing
Last edited by yotanothing; 03-03-2007 at 07:56 AM.
03-03-2007, 08:08 AM
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87 yota 22r, runs good no power
people on greatlakes4x4 say cam timing is off a tooth, Which throws off ignition timing also. But said i still could have ignition timing good enough to make it run but not right...To try moving it a tooth either way to see how bad its off....
Could this be true? Will it still start decently and run decently like normal besides the fact you have to have it to floor board to get anywhere within normal driving reasons...Takes more then a mile or roughly that to get to speed limit of 55 which is like floored to floor in 4th gear....havent seen 5th since motor went in.
Gotta rev the ลลลล out of it in 1st to go anywhere in 2nd which also has to be floored to floor to make it anywhere when you shift into 3rd. And 3rd i have to take it to almost 55 to get it to stay around 50-55 in 4th, sometimes goes slower in 4th
Could this be true? Will it still start decently and run decently like normal besides the fact you have to have it to floor board to get anywhere within normal driving reasons...Takes more then a mile or roughly that to get to speed limit of 55 which is like floored to floor in 4th gear....havent seen 5th since motor went in.
Gotta rev the ลลลล out of it in 1st to go anywhere in 2nd which also has to be floored to floor to make it anywhere when you shift into 3rd. And 3rd i have to take it to almost 55 to get it to stay around 50-55 in 4th, sometimes goes slower in 4th
03-04-2007, 10:57 AM
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k, cam timing should be on, It was on the compression stroke already...
Notch on pulley is at 0 after slack is taken up since it rotates clockwise...
so with notch on 0 that puts the cam gear pin opening dowel thing at 12 o clock and the little nub just a hair to the left of arrow on rocker arm assembly..Which was what people said for 22r's...This motor was out of a 22re efi truck and put my carb on it.
After all that i set igintion timing at 0 at idle around 900 rpms and with vacuum disconnected....
With vacuum line attached it goes right to around 6-7ish at idle...idle rpms might be off little......When you rev it , it goes to aound 12 ish on plate so distributor is advancing/retarding timing then.
Did notice that truck wasnt rollin well when comin to stop and noticed that when i jacked it up the front wheels wouldnt roll. The brakes were binding up badly..Like took 2 hands and some strengh to turn it. Without hubs locked in.... Came to the adjsuting rod on brake booster from pedal was to tight and had constant pressure on brakes...Prolly back too, not sure.
That helped a little, couldnt test much roads were snow covered and i was in 4wd and welded rear end doesnt like that much, But was able to get it up to around 50ish in 4wd and didnt dare to try for more, was all over the place...But seemed a tad better maybe...Still gonna change fuel filter.
Notch on pulley is at 0 after slack is taken up since it rotates clockwise...
so with notch on 0 that puts the cam gear pin opening dowel thing at 12 o clock and the little nub just a hair to the left of arrow on rocker arm assembly..Which was what people said for 22r's...This motor was out of a 22re efi truck and put my carb on it.
After all that i set igintion timing at 0 at idle around 900 rpms and with vacuum disconnected....
With vacuum line attached it goes right to around 6-7ish at idle...idle rpms might be off little......When you rev it , it goes to aound 12 ish on plate so distributor is advancing/retarding timing then.
Did notice that truck wasnt rollin well when comin to stop and noticed that when i jacked it up the front wheels wouldnt roll. The brakes were binding up badly..Like took 2 hands and some strengh to turn it. Without hubs locked in.... Came to the adjsuting rod on brake booster from pedal was to tight and had constant pressure on brakes...Prolly back too, not sure.
That helped a little, couldnt test much roads were snow covered and i was in 4wd and welded rear end doesnt like that much, But was able to get it up to around 50ish in 4wd and didnt dare to try for more, was all over the place...But seemed a tad better maybe...Still gonna change fuel filter.
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