mmcpeck

chipcity....definitely sounds like it could be. I have a hestitation too that I want to try this fix out for.

frozenwave.....we need HELP!!!! Hahaha, those pics are gonna help a lot of guys out man.

frozenwave

oh man. sorry guys, my life has been hectic in a very bad way lately. i'll get to it asap but as for a description, it's the big fat bundle of wires that comes from ecm, thru firewall, encased in a big plastic shroud that shoots off of the fuse block, and runs up under the front of the engine between the metal intake vac tubes and the radiator/fan. In the big bundle of wires, you'll find a grey wire that is much thicker than all the other (cause it's shielded wire with 4 other wires in it) this is i15. just take your dmm and unhook your batter completely, hook the probes up to the positive and negative terminals, mesuring resitance (ohms). grab the bundle and move it around. poke, prod, push, pull. sometimes ya gota move it just right to get a reading. what you'll be looking for, is wild jumps of resistance. in my case, i was going from 1.8k to 10m, and sometimes infinite, i think. i get back to you with the exact details.

chipcity

6" of snow coming tonight, hope I get to pull someone out of it....Mine doesn't run bad at idle, but under load....I wish I could move things while its acting up....got to get a new dmm (digital multimeter), fried mine, thought it checked house amps, NOT....Did notice cracks in a couple of wires right before dist. plug, can I buy a pigtail (plug and 6" of wire) for this?

TNRabbit

This thread makes me reconsider paying the dealer $750 for the entire engine wiring harness....

frozenwave

i couldnt find one available at autozone. likely be a stealership part. i'd hit the nearest salvage yard.the dist pig tail is also rebuildable by using other rubber wire plugs from other connectors as well, from toyota, of course.

TheRival

help a guy out, do you have the pictures yet?

mmcpeck

Anybody else try this and find a problem and do the fix? I'm dying to try it, but it's been too cold out there.

mcerwing

i'm going to try again with the description that he gave. wish me luck.

i'm still a little confused about where to hook up the dmm though.
do i hook up one side to the positive battery terminal, then the other side of the dmm to one of the four wires that go to the distributor? and do i set it on ohms, or volts?

24Runna

Good find sir, I might have to do that soon, I'm getting random misfires at idle, and acceleration.

mcerwing

I went out and connected my dmm to the pigtail that goes to the distributor and measured the resistance as i grabbed the wires and tried my hardest to move them around.

no jumps in resistance.

i was hoping i could just do this easy fix to make my truck run better, but it's not looking like this is the problem. however, when i hooked up my dmm to the pigtail connector, i constantly got a reading of 13.6 ohms. I tried every combination of wires, and anytime i tested a wire with the green wire it came up as 6.7 ohms. is that normal?

frozenwave

sorry for no pics yet guys. soon i promise... but on second thought: and even more sure way to check for this problem is to hook up one of your dmm probes to each of the distributor terminals on the ecm connector, and the other probe to the respective terminal at the pigtail right at the dist. also, on another note, I15 crossed with some of the guages as well, which i had problems with. oddly enough, if your temp guage wont work, neither will your engine! hook up your dmms to both batt terminals (batt. unhooked+key on) and pop out your guage fuse. any big jump in resistance?

frozenwave

oh boy. might I ALSO add that all these tests have to be done with the key ON and the battery disconnected. I apologize everybody. hopefully we'll be seeing different results. logically, we're dealing with the ignition system here, so it makes sense to have continuity running through the 'ignition' switch :-)

mcerwing

both batt terminals? as in hook the dmm up to the terminals that directly connect to the battery, both positive and negative? and i'll have to try it with the key in the on position. you're getting my hopes up again! i'm really praying that this works for my truck

mcerwing

just tried it again. hooked up a dmm to both ends of the battery cables with battery disconnected and key in on position. i grabbed the bundle near the power steering pump and shook, pushed, and pulled it but nothing yet. hmm... maybe my truck doesn't have this problem. :/

oh, and i also pulled the gauge fuse while it was all hooked and the resistance jumped from 10.2 to 58.6

is that good or bad?

btw, where is junction block cm2? is that a fuse box or something?

thanks again for all the info! too bad it's not looking like my truck has this problem

chipcity

I tried moving bundle of wires, above and below core support, no change...Drive daily and I think it's getting worse....15 mpg now...

mcerwing

bump please... pics?

just call me smithy

same problem hear i have to try this one

chipcity

Timing belt broke last friday, close to home....got it done in the cold, have to have wheels...70k on t-belt, teeth were fine but backside was all cracked....of course didn't change how it's running....next month test wires

lonecountryboy

Any pics yet? am curious about this because I am having similar symptoms.

Seanwain

Pictures?