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3.0l Improvement

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Old 10-03-2008, 06:19 AM
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new TQ numbers

STOCK
162TQ

Adapter plate
169TQ

Cyclone intake
172TQ

Sorry for the confusion. Have not had many vechicles on a dyno.
Old 10-03-2008, 06:23 AM
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Dont Care What You Think I Am Happy

Originally Posted by space-junk
okay, so ill be the ass and say it... 150$ was a bit much when you could have gone to an exhaust shop and had them bend and weld bungs into a pipe, then go to autozone and buy the adapter... maybe 50 bucks net cost, and maybe cheaper...
The adapter plate at autozone causes alot of air turblance I had that same plate from the zone and I noticed no real noticable increase in power. I then bought the plate from J&J and I got a noticable diffferece from the two. The one I got for J&J has a velocity stack with a cyclone inside of it. Think what you wish.
Old 10-03-2008, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by space-junk
YESSS!!!! This is AMAZING! Why isn't EVERYONE doing this????

Oh wait. Thats and ISR mod with a cone filter....never mind.

Last edited by wardriver; 10-03-2008 at 06:52 AM.
Old 10-03-2008, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by J_Dawg72
new TQ numbers

STOCK
162TQ

Adapter plate
169TQ

Cyclone intake
172TQ

Sorry for the confusion. Have not had many vechicles on a dyno.
that's great. what rpm are they at agian? our engines make peak torque at 3400. that is the way the cams, head, and timing is designed to make power there. You can't tell that doing the isr mod is going to drop the torque curve down to 2200 rpm. that's bs.
Old 10-03-2008, 10:03 AM
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What does with WCF mean?
Old 10-03-2008, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mmcpeck
What does with WCF mean?
Weather correction factor
Old 10-03-2008, 10:30 AM
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Why is that reading higher?
Old 10-03-2008, 03:06 PM
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probably an algorithm that picks up humidity and alt, and temp, and sets it at an imaginary baseline so you can see what it makes at optimum conditions...
Old 10-03-2008, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mmcpeck
Why is that reading higher?
Dyno Correction, or more accurately Atmospheric Correction, is used as means to ensure comparable results when vehicles are tested under different Atmospheric Conditions. This could mean differences from early morning to late afternoon, or from January to July. In a nutshell, more correction is applied in Hotter, more Humid conditions, and less is needed in Colder, Dryer conditions. Also, more correction is needed in conditions of Lower Barometric Pressure, and less in High Barometric conditions.

The Atmospheric Correction is calculated (in most cases) from Air Temp, Relative Humidity and Barometric Pressure. Unfortunately, there is not just one formula that is used world wide for Atmospheric Correction, and the differences between the varying formulas can vary the result by as much as 4%. This is why whenever a Power or Torque figure is quoted, it should be made clear what Correction Standard is used, and the amount of correction that has been applied is shown, in either a percentage or numerical method.
Old 10-03-2008, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex 400
that's great. what rpm are they at agian? our engines make peak torque at 3400. that is the way the cams, head, and timing is designed to make power there. You can't tell that doing the isr mod is going to drop the torque curve down to 2200 rpm. that's bs.
That is all that I have done to my truck and by the way it is a different style of cone filter adapter but hey What ever makes you guys happy. I was only trying to give some people some cheap horsepower. If 40 bucks for 7hp is not cheap hp for you guys then I dont know what is but when I pay $5.17 for a hp i think that is cheap. And $150 for 10hp and going for 17mpg to 20mpg was good enough for me. I have paid for my set up 2 times already in gas savings so I guess talk and smack yoou want I am getting the benefits I wanted so 3mpg gain and 10 hp will work for me..............................

Besides If TQ is all that matters to you guys not mpg improvement or Hp Gains then i guess you will never enjoy the extra money in your pocket 4mpg improvement puts back in your wallet.

Last edited by J_Dawg72; 10-03-2008 at 03:59 PM.
Old 10-03-2008, 03:58 PM
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Ok makes sense. So which is the "real" reading as far as torque and power?

Also what is the ISR mod that people keep mentioning? Is it the same thing but cheaper?

I would love to pull anything I can out of my 3.0. More torque would be great for towing my boat and going down the beach. Could a 3VZE really make that torque at such low RPM?

Last edited by mmcpeck; 10-03-2008 at 04:02 PM.
Old 10-03-2008, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mmcpeck
Ok makes sense. So which is the "real" reading as far as torque and power?

Also what is the ISR mod that people keep mentioning? Is it the same thing but cheaper?

I would love to pull anything I can out of my 3.0. More torque would be great for towing my boat and going down the beach.
Do a search of ISR mod. It stands for Intake Silencer Removal. It takes out the silencer box out of the intake system and gives the air a smoother route to the throttle body.
Old 10-03-2008, 04:01 PM
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105 hp stock
115 with cold air
112 with plate
Old 10-03-2008, 04:02 PM
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Intake
Silencer
Removal.

You replace the tube going from the AFM to the Thottle body with a simple 3" tube. I used 3" exhaust pipe.

*edit* Alex beat me to it..
Old 10-03-2008, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by J_Dawg72
That is all that I have done to my truck and by the way it is a different style of cone filter adapter but hey What ever makes you guys happy. I was only trying to give some people some cheap horsepower. If 40 bucks for 7hp is not cheap hp for you guys then I dont know what is but when I pay $5.17 for a hp i think that is cheap. And $150 for 10hp and going for 17mpg to 20mpg was good enough for me. I have paid for my set up 2 times already in gas savings so I guess talk and smack yoou want I am getting the benefits I wanted so 3mpg gain and 10 hp will work for me..............................

Besides If TQ is all that matters to you guys not mpg improvement or Hp Gains then i guess you will never enjoy the extra money in your pocket 4mpg improvement puts back in your wallet.
no one is trying to knock you or smack talk, but most of the guys on here have done this mod already, and from what i have come up with on my searches, no one has gotten near 3 mpg gain... most people even say that they lose mpg because they like the sound so much they step on it more...
Old 10-03-2008, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mmcpeck
Ok makes sense. So which is the "real" reading as far as torque and power?

Also what is the ISR mod that people keep mentioning? Is it the same thing but cheaper?

I would love to pull anything I can out of my 3.0. More torque would be great for towing my boat and going down the beach. Could a 3VZE really make that torque at such low RPM?
The "true" reading is the first one; that is how much the motor is putting out in those conditions. The corrected one is the other one. If you were to redyno it another day, you would want to use the corrected one for comparison, because the factors have changed.
Old 10-03-2008, 05:36 PM
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No one used this design. I am telling you the plate alone added 7hp the design of the plate and the cfm it allows to enter turblance free makes all the difference.
Old 10-03-2008, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by J_Dawg72
No one used this design. I am telling you the plate alone added 7hp the design of the plate and the cfm it allows to enter turblance free makes all the difference.


Anything larger than the MAF would be useless....so whats different than say these adapter plates?

Last edited by wardriver; 10-03-2008 at 06:22 PM.
Old 10-03-2008, 06:28 PM
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Please stop calling it a cold air intake...the intake is all still under the hood, where hot air resides. True cold intake takes it from a fender or somewhere outside the engine compartment. I'm not gonna say your gains are bs, exactly, but the dyno numbers are. There's no way the peak power was anywhere in the 2000-3000 rpm range. I gained a lil mileage when I did my ISR, maybe not 3 mpg, but I also didn't shell out $150. You're happy, we're happy!
Old 10-03-2008, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JonnyBoy
Please stop calling it a cold air intake...the intake is all still under the hood, where hot air resides. True cold intake takes it from a fender or somewhere outside the engine compartment. I'm not gonna say your gains are bs, exactly, but the dyno numbers are. There's no way the peak power was anywhere in the 2000-3000 rpm range. I gained a lil mileage when I did my ISR, maybe not 3 mpg, but I also didn't shell out $150. You're happy, we're happy!
x2. a cold air intake draws cold air outside of engine compartment to make more power. your cone is completely exposed to the temperatures of the engine compartment. you have cone filter conversion, not a cold air intake.


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