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22RE dies out. Need help!!

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Old 06-20-2010, 09:24 AM
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Angry 22RE dies out. Need help!!

After start up my 94 22RE dies out after about 3 seconds . I need advice.

Since my truck is running rich with terrible gas mileage I decided to check a couple of things yesterday. First I changed the oil and filter, then I changed all spark plugs, next I opened my K&N to see if it's dirty and along that I disconnected the mass air flow sensor. So the intake was clean and I put it back together. Then I was advised to disconnect the battery to restart the ECU for possible better gas mileage. after that i connected the battery back and started the truck. Now it starts up for about 3 seconds then dies out.

Any suggestions? I feel as if I shouldn't have touched the mass air flow sensor. Although that could not be the problem. I know I should run a diagnosis but I don't have the device. Should I get a tech to fix it?

Last edited by 94YoTa_05CBR1K; 06-20-2010 at 09:34 AM.
Old 06-20-2010, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 94YoTa_05CBR1K
After start up my 94 22RE dies out after about 3 seconds . Should I get a tech to fix it?

Yes... OR you could go over the things you did and make sure you reassembbled it all right.

Like the intake plumbing for starters, make sure it is air tight. No Cracks or a loose fitting you forgot to tighten up. The MAF sensor plug is on correctly, and good connections across the pins.


Resetting the ECU won't get you better milagage- sorry.
Old 06-20-2010, 10:52 AM
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Angry

Originally Posted by flecker
Yes... OR you could go over the things you did and make sure you reassembbled it all right.

Like the intake plumbing for starters, make sure it is air tight. No Cracks or a loose fitting you forgot to tighten up. The MAF sensor plug is on correctly, and good connections across the pins.


Resetting the ECU won't get you better milagage- sorry.
I have done this about 10 times already. No luck. I guess imma take it to a tech.
Old 06-20-2010, 12:18 PM
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Running extremely rich/stalling is unusual for a fuel injected motor, so the tech should be able to ascertain the problem pretty fast(time = $$$).
Old 06-20-2010, 03:31 PM
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Welcome to yotatech.
In my sig is a link to factory service manuals they have pretty good trouble shooting guides.
If the airflow meter is unplugged or is not making contact the engine will act just like you are describing.
As flecker stated above check the intake hoses. The one on the throttle body gets cracks in it especially on the underside where it is not easy to see.
Old 06-20-2010, 04:23 PM
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Well let's say its the MAF sensor. Is my best bet to buy one at the wreck yard since it's over $400 for a new one? I think imma just have a tech come to my house and check out the truck.
Old 06-20-2010, 06:24 PM
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Okay I checked all the hoses and they are in good condition. No cracks or wholes in them plus they're all on secured. Everything is in tack. I hope this doesn't cost me a lot for a tech to come out and diagnose plus fix the problem. Plus parts if needed. I found out that a new MAF sensor is over $400.
Old 06-20-2010, 06:43 PM
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Here is a link to the trouble shooting guide in the FSM http://ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995_4Rn...e/troubles.pdf
Engine stall soon after starting
11 ECU
1 Fuel quality
5 EGR
8 Engine coolant temp sensor circuit
7 Airflow meter
3 Fuel pump
2 Fuel pressure regulator
4 Fuel lines
9 Injectors
10 Cold start system
6 Auxiliary air valve
Old 06-20-2010, 06:45 PM
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You can get them out of junk yards for a lot less and use a ohm meter to tell if they are still good.
Here is a link to that section of the FSM http://ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995_4Rn...e/volumeai.pdf
Old 08-09-2010, 06:22 PM
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so im haveing kinda the same problem. But my problem started after i left the key on for 12+ hours im guessing i did something to the ignitor maybe my ecu as well im getting code 6.
Old 09-17-2010, 10:05 AM
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Im having a similia problem, Just replaced the timing chain on my 1995 toy pu 4 cyl 22r-e. Motor starts good and fast idles about 4 seconds then dies out. After checking diagnostics which produced no codes, adjusted distributer 360 diff deg positions... now set to tdc 5deg on the crank. Have visualy checked all lines, good fule pressure to the rail. Spraying starter fluid into the intake will keep it idleing smooth. Has fuel filter buried under the intake, however the pressure regulator is accesible. MAF has been tested and engine behavior is the same with the maf plugged in or dissconnected. Fairly certain it is not electrical, got to be air or fuel, but fuel pressure is good that I can tell.... Where to start?

Last edited by tervenx; 09-17-2010 at 10:07 AM.
Old 09-17-2010, 11:12 AM
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tervenx if you have fsm i would just work my way down their chart for dies after starting. Mine turned out to be a blown ecu. You pulled all the plugs make sure they fire ok? Check inmectors and cold start inmector? You dubble check timing with a gun? Need to jumper a conector cant rember what one it is off the top of my head. Try jumping the fuel pump but may want help so you dont flood it to much.
Old 09-17-2010, 11:49 AM
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[QUOTE=tbland86;51552226] Cannot locate the fuel pump for the life of me... plugs were good. what is an "inmector"? Also how would i dertimine if the ecu is good/bad?

Last edited by tervenx; 09-17-2010 at 11:51 AM.
Old 09-17-2010, 12:11 PM
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[QUOTE=razed;51552255] You guys are awsome, about 97 hours in troubleshhoting so far. I jumped the fp-B+ and it started right up and ran like a sew machine.... thank you so much guys. Ok so next question, being 400 dollars into this simple timing chain swap out im nearly broke, which direction do I go now? Replace pump? fuse? Going blind trying to track down the fuel pump line in the wireing diagrams, theres 4 different relay spots none of which indicate fuel pump/system.... Also, if its the relay and or a simple fuse, wgy doesnt the ECU throw me a code...

Last edited by tervenx; 09-17-2010 at 12:47 PM.
Old 09-17-2010, 01:01 PM
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efi and igniton fuse on driver side. Main relay on passanger side above ecu.
Old 09-17-2010, 01:02 PM
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dont have my fsm on hand ill pull it out tonight
Old 09-17-2010, 01:36 PM
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[QUOTE=razed;51552289]

so i could still very well be the darn AFM? err maf?

Last edited by tervenx; 09-17-2010 at 01:39 PM.
Old 09-17-2010, 01:56 PM
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you done the resistance test on maf? Or afm?
Old 09-17-2010, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by tbland86
you done the resistance test on maf? Or afm?
Not yet, waiting for a freind to bring over his tester, was kinda working around the MAF issue in hopes of somthing else being the cause. Will pull it and run the ohms test tonight, also begat digging my glove box out in an attempt to reach the #3 relay junction. Oh yeah, where and what is the "AFM"?

Last edited by tervenx; 09-17-2010 at 02:01 PM.
Old 09-17-2010, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tervenx
Not yet, waiting for a freind to bring over his tester, was kinda working around the MAF issue in hopes of somthing else being the cause. Will pull it and run the ohms test tonight, also begat digging my glove box out in an attempt to reach the #3 relay junction. Oh yeah, where and what is the "AFM"?
AFM is the silver metal box before the actual intake...

My truck is in the shop or id take a picture and show you.


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