22re: can loose plug wire cause blown head gasket??
03-30-2008, 12:01 PM
#22
Lol WOW you are barking up the wrong tree there pal. Did you even read the post? Do you even know what block TESTER is? Are you thinking of block sealer? Cause if so, I would suggest you edit your uninformed post. If you really are referencing block TESTER solution, I would ask you this: Just what, praytell, is wrong with the block tester? Its a great way to check for exhaust gasses in your cooling system, something that should never be there.
Ask anyone on here, I am one of the first people to say test things before mindlessly replacing them. I have never used, and will never recommend using Engine restore, and i never use "leech clips" do do my wiring.
As a product (Block TESTER) recommended by a 15 year Toyota master mechanic, I think I trust it and him much more than you.
Just remember what happens when you assume
Ask anyone on here, I am one of the first people to say test things before mindlessly replacing them. I have never used, and will never recommend using Engine restore, and i never use "leech clips" do do my wiring.
As a product (Block TESTER) recommended by a 15 year Toyota master mechanic, I think I trust it and him much more than you.
Just remember what happens when you assume
The rest of my earlier post was not in good taste, for that I apologize. I was trying to make a point and didn't do a very good job at it.
Hasta.
03-30-2008, 12:10 PM
#23
Block tester would be a great addition to any mechanics tool set, as long as they can follow the directions. Its just the same as any other tool. If you dont know how to use it properly, you shouldn't be working on your own car.
04-18-2008, 05:35 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
here's the update to close this thread:
the HG WAS bad, and the BLOCK TESTER CAUGHT IT WAY EARLY. So i have to endorse that stuff. The shop that used it and told me bad HG, was able to determine it two days before it started sucking major coolant and 3 days before its first temperature gauge rise, which is when i stopped immediately to have it towed to a second shop who was willing to do the job. It never blew white smoke.
The job has been done, the shop indicated that the previous rebuilder must have resurfaced the head with a 50-grit disc sander or something (joke) because there were rotational grooves in the surface, rather than being shiny smooth. the bottom end was also 40 over already, but since i've never had to add oil between changes, and it was almost impossible to turn the crank by hand, he decided to leave the bottom end alone. His machine shop indicated only minor resurfacing was necessary on the head to remove those circular grooves, plus a valve job, so we kept that too. Its been back together for 600 miles now, and is purring very nice. (did the full timing service too)
Its very nice to find a shop that knows our trucks very well (the one dude has a supercharged 22r wolverine and the other guy has a nicely modified std. cab taco) and will discuss with me like i'm not an idiot. They've also got my EGR and TPS working again, and are troubleshooting my elect. adv. issue right now, as well as dropping in a new clutch. They knew enough to check/replace the common problem shift bushings (and hydraulics) first, which I really appreciate, trying to handle my poor shifting issue with cheaper solutions before going straight to the high dollar option. Nice to find a shop I feel I can trust again.
TQS in Woodstock, GA.
thanx everyone for chiming in on this thread, have a good weekend!
the HG WAS bad, and the BLOCK TESTER CAUGHT IT WAY EARLY. So i have to endorse that stuff. The shop that used it and told me bad HG, was able to determine it two days before it started sucking major coolant and 3 days before its first temperature gauge rise, which is when i stopped immediately to have it towed to a second shop who was willing to do the job. It never blew white smoke.
The job has been done, the shop indicated that the previous rebuilder must have resurfaced the head with a 50-grit disc sander or something (joke) because there were rotational grooves in the surface, rather than being shiny smooth. the bottom end was also 40 over already, but since i've never had to add oil between changes, and it was almost impossible to turn the crank by hand, he decided to leave the bottom end alone. His machine shop indicated only minor resurfacing was necessary on the head to remove those circular grooves, plus a valve job, so we kept that too. Its been back together for 600 miles now, and is purring very nice. (did the full timing service too)
Its very nice to find a shop that knows our trucks very well (the one dude has a supercharged 22r wolverine and the other guy has a nicely modified std. cab taco) and will discuss with me like i'm not an idiot. They've also got my EGR and TPS working again, and are troubleshooting my elect. adv. issue right now, as well as dropping in a new clutch. They knew enough to check/replace the common problem shift bushings (and hydraulics) first, which I really appreciate, trying to handle my poor shifting issue with cheaper solutions before going straight to the high dollar option. Nice to find a shop I feel I can trust again.
TQS in Woodstock, GA.
thanx everyone for chiming in on this thread, have a good weekend!
Last edited by tj884Rdlx; 04-18-2008 at 05:52 AM.
04-18-2008, 05:43 AM
#27
here's the update to close this thread:
the HG WAS bad, and the BLOCK TESTER CAUGHT IT WAY EARLY. So i have to endorse that stuff. The shop that used it and told me bad HG, was able to determine it two days before it started sucking coolant and 3 days before its first temperature gauge rise, which is when i stopped immediately to have it towed to a second shop who was willing to do the job. It never blew white smoke.
the HG WAS bad, and the BLOCK TESTER CAUGHT IT WAY EARLY. So i have to endorse that stuff. The shop that used it and told me bad HG, was able to determine it two days before it started sucking coolant and 3 days before its first temperature gauge rise, which is when i stopped immediately to have it towed to a second shop who was willing to do the job. It never blew white smoke.
I like my crow deep fried
Last edited by zlathim; 04-18-2008 at 05:44 AM.
08-12-2008, 05:44 AM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
alright TJ if you haven't took this to the shop yet and your willing to do some traveling i live in London KY. its about a 5 or 6 hour drive i think im right on the Tenn. line we have this place here call halls truck salvage and i think they sell 22r's and 22re's for about 300 or 400 bucks used and i know a guy who absolutely loves Toyota's and 22r , re motors and would probably change everything and check out everything else for about 300 or 400 dollars
i know its a pritty good drive but you could make some calls and stuff befor you came and make sure your saving money but just so you know youll not find anyone better for your truck and as cheap than this guy message me back if you want the numbers
oh yeah and if you even think of swapping the motor for any thing but another 22re or a 22r motor your nuttier than squirrel turds that is the best motor ever made
oh and by the way that engine restore stuff sucks if you use it get ready to change your oil and you oil pump soon
i know its a pritty good drive but you could make some calls and stuff befor you came and make sure your saving money but just so you know youll not find anyone better for your truck and as cheap than this guy message me back if you want the numbers
oh yeah and if you even think of swapping the motor for any thing but another 22re or a 22r motor your nuttier than squirrel turds that is the best motor ever made
oh and by the way that engine restore stuff sucks if you use it get ready to change your oil and you oil pump soon
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
steve miller
General Electrical & Lighting Related Topics
2
10-10-2015 01:40 AM
