1st Gen 4runner rear corner panel protection now available!
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ft Collins, CO
Posts: 3,477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's certainly less likely to get hung up on stuff than the alternative:
I think having the back end wrap around would be a great improvement, especially if you could kinda cut out a grid over the taillight so it was protected too ... and then maybe a horizontal "rub rail" along the top to keep the glass/top from leaning into stuff ...
I think having the back end wrap around would be a great improvement, especially if you could kinda cut out a grid over the taillight so it was protected too ... and then maybe a horizontal "rub rail" along the top to keep the glass/top from leaning into stuff ...
#22
Contributing Member
Or you could weld fabricate the corner. It looks like you're having them laser or plasma cut anyways, so it seems like it would be pretty easy to have it cut with the right curve to cope in there, lay down a bead, and call it good.
#26
Registered User
I think it's a good idea. I do want to see one installed. I guess my worry would be it spreading out the load and making a larger dent but it does look like you'd need a good hit to spread out the load bad enough to get a wicked dent. I guess more than anything I'd like to see you go beat the piss out of a set of them and post picture after The only thing I would change is the slope above the tail light, I'd keep it going straight up. Stoked to see the local guy killin it! I know steel prices are jacked but it does seem like more than I'd personally pay unless it served some pretty severe protection. Good idea rolling it under the bottom of the quarter panel.
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
yeah, I don't get...
if I had the option of rails that kept the rocks away from my bod, or my bod away from the rocks..., or a plate that rocks could hit which in turn would hit my bod because it's only 1/8" or whatever from my panels, I think I'd lean (pun?) towards rails instead of plates.
OTOH, 1/4" diamond/tread plate welded on top of rails as the primary contact surface... woo hoo!
Just a thought.
if I had the option of rails that kept the rocks away from my bod, or my bod away from the rocks..., or a plate that rocks could hit which in turn would hit my bod because it's only 1/8" or whatever from my panels, I think I'd lean (pun?) towards rails instead of plates.
OTOH, 1/4" diamond/tread plate welded on top of rails as the primary contact surface... woo hoo!
Just a thought.
Last edited by abecedarian; 05-01-2008 at 05:16 PM.
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ft Collins, CO
Posts: 3,477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think it's a good idea. I do want to see one installed. I guess my worry would be it spreading out the load and making a larger dent but it does look like you'd need a good hit to spread out the load bad enough to get a wicked dent. I guess more than anything I'd like to see you go beat the piss out of a set of them and post picture after The only thing I would change is the slope above the tail light, I'd keep it going straight up. Stoked to see the local guy killin it! I know steel prices are jacked but it does seem like more than I'd personally pay unless it served some pretty severe protection. Good idea rolling it under the bottom of the quarter panel.
#29
Registered User
yeah, I don't get...
if I had the option of rails that kept the rocks away from my bod, or my bod away from the rocks..., or a plate that rocks could hit which in turn would hit my bod because it's only 1/8" or whatever from my panels, I think I'd lean (pun?) towards rails instead of plates.
OTOH, 1/4" diamond/tread plate welded on top of rails as the primary contact surface... woo hoo!
Just a thought.
if I had the option of rails that kept the rocks away from my bod, or my bod away from the rocks..., or a plate that rocks could hit which in turn would hit my bod because it's only 1/8" or whatever from my panels, I think I'd lean (pun?) towards rails instead of plates.
OTOH, 1/4" diamond/tread plate welded on top of rails as the primary contact surface... woo hoo!
Just a thought.
I've now taken the sawzall and cut all of the bent up sheetmetal out and am in the process of rewelding new sheetmetal back in.
#33
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Good 'ole Georgia
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think it's a good idea, maybe could use a little extra protection around the tail lights though. Doesn't have to fully wrap around, just enough to protect the top of the tail light. Like a dovetail kinda thing....sheesh I wish I could just draw it out for you! look at the "J" on your keyboard. as if the truck were facing away from you, and you were on the pass. side. doesn't have to be the full lenght of the bottom of the "J" just where it starts to curve. know what I mean? Here, lemme try to draw it in paint...
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Good 'ole Georgia
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Play like the black lines are the truck's passenger side quarter pannel. The blue stands for the "new" design I'm talking about. It might still be hard like what your saying about the die, but this could be just at the top of the tail light, or bottom or just do both. I'm not much of a fabricator, how about a small kick out or something???
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ft Collins, CO
Posts: 3,477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Play like the black lines are the truck's passenger side quarter pannel. The blue stands for the "new" design I'm talking about. It might still be hard like what your saying about the die, but this could be just at the top of the tail light, or bottom or just do both. I'm not much of a fabricator, how about a small kick out or something???
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ft Collins, CO
Posts: 3,477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Float me $20K to have the die built for it, and I'll build whatever you want.
Chuck had 100 people buy in at $200/ea just to be able to afford to have that die built. Then those 100 people had to pay another $200 when it was done. OUCH.
Chuck had 100 people buy in at $200/ea just to be able to afford to have that die built. Then those 100 people had to pay another $200 when it was done. OUCH.
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: East Coast
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think the design is a great idea, and I'm glad to see someone has come up with it. I may be interested in a set when you get them done for pickups. Good work. I'll keep my eyes out for your post about when the other stuff for pickups is available!
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ft Collins, CO
Posts: 3,477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks.
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Good 'ole Georgia
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah my cheapest bet would be just to get some extra tubing bent from the rear bumper to the sliders. (when I get sliders)
And yes I know it would be cheaper to get the prebent panels instead of sliders and tube bent and welded but I have wanted sliders for a while.
And yes I know it would be cheaper to get the prebent panels instead of sliders and tube bent and welded but I have wanted sliders for a while.
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ft Collins, CO
Posts: 3,477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sliders are a must IMO. As for the other tubing, I just don't see a point in running anything similar to an exo on a rig that sees a lot of hwy use. I've owned a fully built rig with an exo and couldn't keep up with traffic after adding the exo even with 5.29s and only 35s. Mileage dropped by 5mpg too.
Last edited by ScottyC; 05-04-2008 at 06:41 AM.