1991 Toyota Pickup Leaning Passenger Side
07-11-2013, 08:54 AM
#21
there's other vendors and brands around. old man emu has some (p/n: 303003). i think t-bars are sold in pairs, but you should call the store and find out for sure.
more vendors:
http://www.rocky-road.com/4runner.html
https://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.co...dproduct=-7711
http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Prod...nbarsclearance
http://www.jbccoffroad.com/toyota4.html
http://www.eshocks.com/sway_mult.asp...sQTo&SubChar=Q
more vendors:
http://www.rocky-road.com/4runner.html
https://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.co...dproduct=-7711
http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Prod...nbarsclearance
http://www.jbccoffroad.com/toyota4.html
http://www.eshocks.com/sway_mult.asp...sQTo&SubChar=Q
07-11-2013, 09:06 AM
#22
wow, yeah i just suggested unmatched t-bars as a guess, but now looking at the pics again they definitely look different. my guess is something was up with one of them and they replaced, not sure why they didn't do both - but that's most likely the reason since most of the aftermarket ones have a stiffer spring rate than the OEM ones (t-bar adjustment won't help much if they are actually different). you could buy some new ones or even hit up a junk yard, craigslist, classifieds on 4wheeling sites, offroad shops, etc - lots of people SAS their rigs, so stock t-bars a very abundant and i'd be surprised if you couldn't find several people who will just give them to you.
07-11-2013, 09:27 AM
#23
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Alright so I just put an order in for new Sway-A-Way torsion bars. When I get those in I'll give an update and see if that was the culprit or not. Sure hope it was though.
07-11-2013, 09:36 AM
#24
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before you go and jump to sway-a-way, which is a good brand, shop other ones too, doesn't hurt.
personally I don't suggest junk yards or craigslist. theres some (most) thing better bought new than used. even "great condition" used ones are still used. you don't know how many miles are on em, just how many years they supported the weight of a truck. if that. or how the where treated, driver abuse, never adjusted, fully adjusted, stretched etc
free is always nice but they could have 300k on em of severe offroad use (not likely but still a possibility)
or come from a chicks truck and one of em (passenger) been hitting curbs all the time for a few years
(I would know, I tend to go over curbs a lot. lol)
personally I don't suggest junk yards or craigslist. theres some (most) thing better bought new than used. even "great condition" used ones are still used. you don't know how many miles are on em, just how many years they supported the weight of a truck. if that. or how the where treated, driver abuse, never adjusted, fully adjusted, stretched etc
free is always nice but they could have 300k on em of severe offroad use (not likely but still a possibility)
or come from a chicks truck and one of em (passenger) been hitting curbs all the time for a few years
(I would know, I tend to go over curbs a lot. lol)
07-11-2013, 09:43 AM
#25
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before you go and jump to sway-a-way, which is a good brand, shop other ones too, doesn't hurt.
personally I don't suggest junk yards or craigslist. theres some (most) thing better bought new than used. even "great condition" used ones are still used. you don't know how many miles are on em, just how many years they supported the weight of a truck. if that. or how the where treated, driver abuse, never adjusted, fully adjusted, stretched etc
free is always nice but they could have 300k on em of severe offroad use (not likely but still a possibility)
or come from a chicks truck and one of em (passenger) been hitting curbs all the time for a few years (I would know, I tend to go over curbs a lot. lol)
personally I don't suggest junk yards or craigslist. theres some (most) thing better bought new than used. even "great condition" used ones are still used. you don't know how many miles are on em, just how many years they supported the weight of a truck. if that. or how the where treated, driver abuse, never adjusted, fully adjusted, stretched etc
free is always nice but they could have 300k on em of severe offroad use (not likely but still a possibility)
or come from a chicks truck and one of em (passenger) been hitting curbs all the time for a few years
(I would know, I tend to go over curbs a lot. lol)
07-11-2013, 10:37 AM
#27
i'm sure you'll be happy with the new t-bars, but personally i would rather spend $250 on something else important besides new t-bars, and just pick up a used set. i've never heard of an actual t-bar failing - it's always the mount but never the actual bar itself, so it's one of the only parts i would say is good to go used. yes the spring rate can diminish with time if the rig had extra weight up front or was maxed out in height for extended time - but the awesome thing about a t-bar is the ability to adjust them when this happens. plus, if you find someone parting out a rig you can simply ask them what the odometer read. also, since there are MANY Yotas out there getting wheeled with IFS and 400k on the original suspension, I wouldn't hesitate. on the opposite side, people buy up IFS toyotas only to immediately SAS with only 100k on the rig...anyways, it's too late since it seems you already bought them.
on a truck like this, i could see the t-bar money going toward something like a front bumper, bigger tires to match that huge lift, taller leaf springs to eliminate those rear blocks, an upgraded idler arm with brass bushes and idler brace since you're most likely keeping it IFS, etc etc but it's not my truck.
also, looking again at the pics - have you touched the driver's side t-bar at all? in the pic it looks like someone lifted that side due to the positive camber on that side...this could explain why that side is higher than the other. if it were me, i'd even just lower that side down and call it good until the wallet is heavier
don't forget you'll technically need an alignment each time you mess with the t-bars since they change the camber.
on a truck like this, i could see the t-bar money going toward something like a front bumper, bigger tires to match that huge lift, taller leaf springs to eliminate those rear blocks, an upgraded idler arm with brass bushes and idler brace since you're most likely keeping it IFS, etc etc but it's not my truck.
also, looking again at the pics - have you touched the driver's side t-bar at all? in the pic it looks like someone lifted that side due to the positive camber on that side...this could explain why that side is higher than the other. if it were me, i'd even just lower that side down and call it good until the wallet is heavier
don't forget you'll technically need an alignment each time you mess with the t-bars since they change the camber.
07-11-2013, 10:45 AM
#28
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i'm sure you'll be happy with the new t-bars, but personally i would rather spend $250 on something else important besides new t-bars, and just pick up a used set. i've never heard of an actual t-bar failing - it's always the mount but never the actual bar itself, so it's one of the only parts i would say is good to go used. yes the spring rate can diminish with time if the rig had extra weight up front or was maxed out in height for extended time - but the awesome thing about a t-bar is the ability to adjust them when this happens. plus, if you find someone parting out a rig you can simply ask them what the odometer read. also, since there are MANY Yotas out there getting wheeled with IFS and 400k on the original suspension, I wouldn't hesitate. on the opposite side, people buy up IFS toyotas only to immediately SAS with only 100k on the rig...anyways, it's too late since it seems you already bought them.
on a truck like this, i could see the t-bar money going toward something like a front bumper, bigger tires to match that huge lift, taller leaf springs to eliminate those rear blocks, an upgraded idler arm with brass bushes and idler brace since you're most likely keeping it IFS, etc etc but it's not my truck.
also, looking again at the pics - have you touched the driver's side t-bar at all? in the pic it looks like someone lifted that side due to the positive camber on that side...this could explain why that side is higher than the other. if it were me, i'd even just lower that side down and call it good until the wallet is heavier don't forget you'll technically need an alignment each time you mess with the t-bars since they change the camber.
on a truck like this, i could see the t-bar money going toward something like a front bumper, bigger tires to match that huge lift, taller leaf springs to eliminate those rear blocks, an upgraded idler arm with brass bushes and idler brace since you're most likely keeping it IFS, etc etc but it's not my truck.
also, looking again at the pics - have you touched the driver's side t-bar at all? in the pic it looks like someone lifted that side due to the positive camber on that side...this could explain why that side is higher than the other. if it were me, i'd even just lower that side down and call it good until the wallet is heavier
don't forget you'll technically need an alignment each time you mess with the t-bars since they change the camber.
07-11-2013, 04:29 PM
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Before I go buy a socket to fit the TBars and hop under there and start wrenching can the Tbars affect both the front and rear suspension height? Because after taking the measurements around the vehicle it's definitely off in both the front and back.
I also called Big O back too because my truck was pulling more after they messed with it and they said they tried both TBars and they wouldn't adjust.
I also called Big O back too because my truck was pulling more after they messed with it and they said they tried both TBars and they wouldn't adjust.
07-11-2013, 05:04 PM
#33
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Alright I definitely need to work on measuring skills as I think it came out different each time haha. Anyways about 3/4" difference in front and around 1/2" in back.
07-11-2013, 06:12 PM
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By the look of your drivers side control arm adjuster bolt Your bushings are bad or the control arm mount points are pushed inward, Mine are like that but on the drivers side due to previous owner accident.
Your control arms look like they need to be angled down a lot more, If you already have the Tbars cranked all the way then I think you have the mini truck Tbars or they are really messed up.
OEM Tbars should go way beyond that angle.
You should have about 1/4"-3/8" space between your upper control arm and the upper bumpstops.
Your control arms look like they need to be angled down a lot more, If you already have the Tbars cranked all the way then I think you have the mini truck Tbars or they are really messed up.
OEM Tbars should go way beyond that angle.
You should have about 1/4"-3/8" space between your upper control arm and the upper bumpstops.
07-12-2013, 05:03 AM
#35
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By the look of your drivers side control arm adjuster bolt Your bushings are bad or the control arm mount points are pushed inward, Mine are like that but on the drivers side due to previous owner accident.
Your control arms look like they need to be angled down a lot more, If you already have the Tbars cranked all the way then I think you have the mini truck Tbars or they are really messed up.
OEM Tbars should go way beyond that angle.
You should have about 1/4"-3/8" space between your upper control arm and the upper bumpstops.
Your control arms look like they need to be angled down a lot more, If you already have the Tbars cranked all the way then I think you have the mini truck Tbars or they are really messed up.
OEM Tbars should go way beyond that angle.
You should have about 1/4"-3/8" space between your upper control arm and the upper bumpstops.
07-12-2013, 06:26 AM
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07-12-2013, 08:28 AM
#39
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careful with the t-bars, they are under pressure, jack the body of the truck up to release some pressure, but if it wants to come flying down move fast. buddy of mine broke his collar bone and chipped the top of his humorous with one snapping down.
granted he's not the sharpest knife, but still don't stand/head under the bars when taking them out
and to highonpottery, I've totally seen them fail lol. not from normal use tho, buddy stuffed his tire on a wall after putting used ones on from his old crawler at full crank and it cracked when he slammed down on the ground. he drove it home but it was leaning and every bump he hit his head on something lol.
granted he's not the sharpest knife, but still don't stand/head under the bars when taking them out
and to highonpottery, I've totally seen them fail lol. not from normal use tho, buddy stuffed his tire on a wall after putting used ones on from his old crawler at full crank and it cracked when he slammed down on the ground. he drove it home but it was leaning and every bump he hit his head on something lol.
