v6 caliper swap PROBLEM
#1
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v6 caliper swap PROBLEM
I just rebuilt my entire front axle. I am installing V6 calipers and have run into a slight problem. After tightening the caliper bolts the inner brake pads come in contact with the backside of the rotors - so much so that you can't turn the wheel.
Additional Background:
This is the first rebuild I have done. Also, after installing the rotor assembly on the spindle and following the FSM instructions and then Roger Brown instructions on how to set the wheel bearing preload, it sure seems like eveything is way too tight. Using a pull scale, the frictional force is like 31lbs.
This leads me to think that the rotors are being forced too far back on the spindle, thus my problem stated above.
I need help figuring this one out...
Additional Background:
This is the first rebuild I have done. Also, after installing the rotor assembly on the spindle and following the FSM instructions and then Roger Brown instructions on how to set the wheel bearing preload, it sure seems like eveything is way too tight. Using a pull scale, the frictional force is like 31lbs.
This leads me to think that the rotors are being forced too far back on the spindle, thus my problem stated above.
I need help figuring this one out...
#2
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Pull the caliper off and start rechecking things.
I'd loosen the spindle nut and the bearing cap on the bottom and steering arm on top. Then retorque everything per FSM. Then check with fish scale. I think it's supposed to be in the 12-17 lb range. Then see if wheel rotates properly.
Get all that right before you install the caliper.
Then put on the caliper and see if you still have the problem. If you still have a problem you could have assembled things in wrong order or left something out.
Kind of hard to diagnose any further w/o being there.
I'd loosen the spindle nut and the bearing cap on the bottom and steering arm on top. Then retorque everything per FSM. Then check with fish scale. I think it's supposed to be in the 12-17 lb range. Then see if wheel rotates properly.
Get all that right before you install the caliper.
Then put on the caliper and see if you still have the problem. If you still have a problem you could have assembled things in wrong order or left something out.
Kind of hard to diagnose any further w/o being there.
#3
i'm confused. you're using the v6 calipers. are you using the cruiser rotors? i thought the calipers for the IFS trucks were all the same. the part you want from the v6 is the master cylinder.
#4
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AFAIK, all IFS trucks have the same exact caliper, but there are two types of piston arrangements ( 2 larger 2 smaller, or 4 all the same size ). The only reason to use the IFS calipers is with the rotors from an '81 and up Toyota LC FJ40. (( which is a good cheap mod )) If you are using the regular rotors with the IFS caliper, then that could be the cause....maybe... because the rotor is thinner.
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Originally Posted by phorunninduke
AFAIK, all IFS trucks have the same exact caliper, but there are two types of piston arrangements ( 2 larger 2 smaller, or 4 all the same size ). The only reason to use the IFS calipers is with the rotors from an '81 and up Toyota LC FJ40. (( which is a good cheap mod )) If you are using the regular rotors with the IFS caliper, then that could be the cause....maybe... because the rotor is thinner.
#6
Originally Posted by fourwd1
Pull the caliper off and start rechecking things.
I'd loosen the spindle nut and the bearing cap on the bottom and steering arm on top. Then retorque everything per FSM. Then check with fish scale. I think it's supposed to be in the 12-17 lb range. Then see if wheel rotates properly.
Get all that right before you install the caliper.
Then put on the caliper and see if you still have the problem. If you still have a problem you could have assembled things in wrong order or left something out.
Kind of hard to diagnose any further w/o being there.
I'd loosen the spindle nut and the bearing cap on the bottom and steering arm on top. Then retorque everything per FSM. Then check with fish scale. I think it's supposed to be in the 12-17 lb range. Then see if wheel rotates properly.
Get all that right before you install the caliper.
Then put on the caliper and see if you still have the problem. If you still have a problem you could have assembled things in wrong order or left something out.
Kind of hard to diagnose any further w/o being there.
Yep, in the 12-17 lb range...or simply tighten it until you feel resistance when spinning the hub by hand. Then check it. The FSM explains it all pretty well.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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I'll fill in the blanks...
Yes I have also upgraded the rotors to the LC vented rotors.
I'm going to, as suggested, pull everything off again and retighten, maybe not as much though.
Not sure what good it will do to loosen the bolts on the bearing cap and steering arm, since that doesn't affect the position of the rotor...and when I installed the new trunion bearings/races and tightend everything down the first time my frictional force on the steering was in spec.
Ahhh the joys mods...
I'll be tackling this stuff this weekend and will report back.
Thanks for all the feedback
Yes I have also upgraded the rotors to the LC vented rotors.
I'm going to, as suggested, pull everything off again and retighten, maybe not as much though.
Not sure what good it will do to loosen the bolts on the bearing cap and steering arm, since that doesn't affect the position of the rotor...and when I installed the new trunion bearings/races and tightend everything down the first time my frictional force on the steering was in spec.
Ahhh the joys mods...
I'll be tackling this stuff this weekend and will report back.
Thanks for all the feedback
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