taking off the cab of '84 to weld frame
12-16-2008, 12:34 PM
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taking off the cab of '84 to weld frame
Hi all,
I am new and looking for a little advise.
I just got an '84 4x4 reg cab with a rusted frame behind the cab.
The bed is already off and i want to take the cab off the be get full access to box weld the frame back into usable shape.
the rest of the frame is in decent shape, just rusted on the bottom there.
I plan to use this mainly off-road on the farm and for huntin' so don't need to worry bout the man saying anything!
My question is this...... Am I crazy for trying to pull the cab?
is it just a few body bolts and lift off? or do i need to undo like a thousand wire connections also?
I also have an '88 extra cab 4x4 with a 22re , 2 inch body lift, and 32x11.50 MTR's for huntin' (going to camo it this spring!)
thanx for your help!
I am new and looking for a little advise.
I just got an '84 4x4 reg cab with a rusted frame behind the cab.
The bed is already off and i want to take the cab off the be get full access to box weld the frame back into usable shape.
the rest of the frame is in decent shape, just rusted on the bottom there.
I plan to use this mainly off-road on the farm and for huntin' so don't need to worry bout the man saying anything!
My question is this...... Am I crazy for trying to pull the cab?
is it just a few body bolts and lift off? or do i need to undo like a thousand wire connections also?
I also have an '88 extra cab 4x4 with a 22re , 2 inch body lift, and 32x11.50 MTR's for huntin' (going to camo it this spring!)
thanx for your help!
12-16-2008, 03:45 PM
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thanx for reafirming my decision to remove the cab......
i thought it would be tough!!!
any resources for what will need to be removed, or even a step by step??? (i can dream can't I?)
guess I should just get a roll of duct tape and a sharpie and label EVERYTHING as i disconect it
i thought it would be tough!!!
any resources for what will need to be removed, or even a step by step??? (i can dream can't I?)
guess I should just get a roll of duct tape and a sharpie and label EVERYTHING as i disconect it
12-16-2008, 10:11 PM
#4
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six bolts hold the cab on. Four inside the cab (one per "corner") and two behind the front bumper. The inner fenders and radiator support are welded to the cab, so the whole clip comes off with it.
The motor can stay in. Just be careful with the wiring harness, it should unplug into two seperate pieces. Or just start unplugging things from the engine and use a sharpie. For each connection, give the male and cooperative female plug matching numbers. 1 & 1... next connection 2 & 2... so on.
Take the PWR steering reservoir, unbolt it, and string it across the valve cover. Same with fuse panel, and anythign else mounted to the inner fenders. Disconnect main hydraulic lines from master cylinder(s) to brake and clutch.
Hydraulic lines, fuel lines, and anything else running to the rear have small mounts that screw into the bottom of the cab. Make sure these come out, or you'll tear a line. It only takes about 3 people to lift and remove a COMPLETELY STRIPPED cab and 4 if the dash, glass and doors are still attached.
The motor can stay in. Just be careful with the wiring harness, it should unplug into two seperate pieces. Or just start unplugging things from the engine and use a sharpie. For each connection, give the male and cooperative female plug matching numbers. 1 & 1... next connection 2 & 2... so on.
Take the PWR steering reservoir, unbolt it, and string it across the valve cover. Same with fuse panel, and anythign else mounted to the inner fenders. Disconnect main hydraulic lines from master cylinder(s) to brake and clutch.
Hydraulic lines, fuel lines, and anything else running to the rear have small mounts that screw into the bottom of the cab. Make sure these come out, or you'll tear a line. It only takes about 3 people to lift and remove a COMPLETELY STRIPPED cab and 4 if the dash, glass and doors are still attached.
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