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#26 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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#27 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 149
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pick up a can of pb blaster at the parts store. soak it everyday for a few days, then take it to a shop with a large press and see if they can press it out. about the only other suggestion I can give. good luck
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85 4runner 22re, 170K, clean and straight. Still working through 20 years of scheduled maint. Future plans, engbldr street RV head, cam and OS valves, engbldr over haul kit, Marlin Crawler trany rebuild kit, T-case rebuild, 2" lift, interior, repaint. Currently 20mpg, Sound great, using 1qt of oil every two days. |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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new update. Still no progress. i got a bigger pickle fork and this thing is stout. I could not pry this thing off or shim it in there enough to make it pop it off. It will not come off. I am going to plan G and that is to remove the tie rod end (which seems it may present the same problem, hopefully not) and then I should have some more room to work and be able to use some other tool or take it somewhere so I can salvage the steering/knuckle arm.
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#29 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 149
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I think if I in your possition at this point I would take the TRE and steering arm of, and litteraly put them down in a bucket of pb blaster for about a week, take it out a few times a day and tap with a hammer to set up a vibration. Then take to a shop with a heavy floor press and see if they can press it out.
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85 4runner 22re, 170K, clean and straight. Still working through 20 years of scheduled maint. Future plans, engbldr street RV head, cam and OS valves, engbldr over haul kit, Marlin Crawler trany rebuild kit, T-case rebuild, 2" lift, interior, repaint. Currently 20mpg, Sound great, using 1qt of oil every two days. |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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I may end up doing something like that. Thanks.
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#31 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: nanaimo British Columbia Canada
Posts: 671
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use the pickle fork and hammer the living daylights of it with the sledge hhammer lol
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Quote:
Quote:
1993 yota pickup. 3 slow, 4.56 gears 5 speed. plumbing isr. autopal h4 conversion, 12 inch infinity sub. 3 inch body lift with 33'' tsl's |
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#32 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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That's what i did last night. I used the pickle for as a wedge and smashed the hell out of it with a 10lb sludge hammer. Didn't move. It's actually tearing the ball out of the joint, which I'm getting a new tie rod end anyways, so I don't really care. I just need it to all come apart so I can use the knuckle arm again.
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#33 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,185
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Quote:
You are hitting the pickle fork with a hammer right? It kind of sounds like you are just trying to pry it off there with the pickle fork. I probably just read it wrong, but thought I would chime in anyway.
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Do you think Einstein walked around thinking everyone was a bunch of dipsticks? Idiocracy (edited for family friendly viewing) |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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I tried all of the above. Thanks though
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#35 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 294
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Have you been soaking it in PB blaster? Try more heat every time too.
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1985 Toyota 4Runner - Full SR5 package - 4 inch lift - 35" tires |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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Yep, it's soaking as we speak. I'm going to get another puller (hopefully better quality) and remove the tie rod end with the knuckle then I believe I can devise something to get the two separated.
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#37 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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another update, still not progress. I got another puller today at napa and it broke that puller also. It was supposed to be a stronger one. I was going to remove the stabilizer from the tie rod and it's the same freakin situation. I can't try the puller on it b/c it's already broken. Is there something I can rent or that is much much stronger that can get the job done? I am not going to be able to remove the tie rod end or move the vehicle.
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#38 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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alright, i may have to just replace the whole damn steering arm too. This is getting ridiculous. What kind of upgrades would be suggested if I'm going to be replacing this much stuff?
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#39 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 294
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What about taking the arm to a shop, let them deal with popping it out?
Really the only steering upgrade with be a crossover high steer setup, but they require a 3 inch lift to clear all the parts. In the end its far from a cheap upgrade.
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1985 Toyota 4Runner - Full SR5 package - 4 inch lift - 35" tires |
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#40 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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Yeah, I got you on that one. I was just looking at all of that info. Maybe down the road more. I can't get the stabilizer off the tie rod either. Same problem. I could remove it from the other side I suppose. Just getting really pissed off over the situation b/c this is holding the entire project up. I've got someone coming over to help out in a day or two. I guess I'll continue cleaning parts and what not.
Got the POR 15 a few days back for the coating of the knuckle and all that good stuff. |
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#41 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 1,623
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pb blaster is terrible.
go with ATF and Acetone ... mix it up and let it sit overnight. best penetrator ever.
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#42 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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I'll have to give it a shot.
Thanks. I'm going to work on it more this evening. I'll post up about the progress |
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#43 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 1,623
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Quote:
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Proud sponsor of the re-poster thread. Where there is Substance. http://www.yotatech.com/f5/you-re-poster-193103/ |
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#44 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7,828
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One other thing that often works wonders is to heat up the stud of the rod end (to the point the opposite end starts to smoke), than apply a candle to the bottom of the stud and let the heat wick the molten paraffin up into the joint. You can try to remove the rod end when the end is still hot and if that does not work, try it after it cools. And try tapping on the side of the arm where the rod end stud passes through. I also have found that putting on a puller, tightening it up and leaving it for a while with repeated re-tightening works also. Have use this to pull pitman arms off of steering boxes. I have a puller that broke on my first all-in-one-shot attempt, but I welded up the broken arm and then used it in the slow and steady approach and it has worked fine since then.
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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 149
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ATF and Acetone....I'll have to give that a shot. I have some old stuff of both around and was wondering what I was going to do with them.
Might want to give 4crawlers way a try. Another option would be to find a pick a part and get the TR and steering knuckle. Might be the cheapest way to replace them. I have been using some stuff called "Freeze Off", you can get it at AutoZone. Picked up the first can when I first got my runner. You spray it on the nut or bolt for 10 seconds, then hit it with a bfh. I have yet to break a bolt using the stuff. I ran out working on the 87 one day, had some PB blaster, used it, and broke 4 bolts on the stabilizer bar. Went back to AZ and got some more freeze off, and have not had a problem. It must be filled with CO2 to freeze the nut. I dont know if it will work on your TRE, the threaded end and steering arm is much larger than anything I have tried it on. Hope you get it soon.
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85 4runner 22re, 170K, clean and straight. Still working through 20 years of scheduled maint. Future plans, engbldr street RV head, cam and OS valves, engbldr over haul kit, Marlin Crawler trany rebuild kit, T-case rebuild, 2" lift, interior, repaint. Currently 20mpg, Sound great, using 1qt of oil every two days. |
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#46 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: UK and Gulf Shores, AL
Posts: 322
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You should be able to get a steering arm at a pick-n-pull for almost nothing. I see them on ebay sometimes. I would replace the Tie-rod with one from Budbuilt or Marlin with the Fzj80 tie-rod ends. They are much beefier than OEM.
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1985 4Runner 1997 FZJ 80 2007 HDJ100 - DD |
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#47 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: oregon
Posts: 2,299
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^ i dont think they wont fit in the factory steering arms. 99% sure, but not 100% lol
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91 Toyota "built not bought" Quote:
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#48 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4
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Are you removing this to upgrade to high streee? If so remove the other side and throw it away. Use the puller to apply pulling pressure on the TRE while you are tring everything else. Thightin the puller till you see it flex. Then smak the end of the puller or the side of the J arm (im assuming that you are replacing the TRE) with a hammer while heating it. Then tightin it alittle more. Whatch for the ends of the puller slipping off the edge of the TRE. Good luck.
Last edited by Spookee; 11-10-2009 at 03:32 PM. |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 431
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yes, I'm replacing the tre's. No upgrades this go round. I did get them removed. The snow is suppose to fly thursday or wednesday night so I'm working double time on this thing. I've go the parts cleaned and ready for the POR 15. I will probably do a high steer when I get a lift, but that's out of the question for this year because I need the truck for winter and it is knockin on my back door.
I removed the tre (got the stabilizer off the tie rod by hitting it with a nut on the end of the stud, used 5-10 lb hammer) and then heated an Oxy Acetylene torch I was able to get from some one (map torch didn't work, guessing it was because it was heating too slowly) and then braced the thing on a jack and hit it with all the force I had in me. Thing came off. The other side, I used the same hammer and hit it as hard as I possibly could about 5 times (on the knuckle arm, but perpendicular to the stud) and it knocked it loose. SOBs!!!! Finally conquered. Finishing up the cleaning process and then it will all be painted and that one side will be assembled, then I will disassemble the other side and do it all over except I expect it to go twice as fast. Last edited by live4soccer7; 11-10-2009 at 10:36 PM. |
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| 4runner, arm, broken, high, ifs, knuckle, remove, steer, stud |
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