desertcamper67

I finally tossed my shot out rear panels and am not going to buy plastic replacements. I bought some half inch thick MDF and already cut them to fit. My only question is: what are some good options for utilizing the dead space between the panels and the quarter panels. Doors, cabinets cubby holes, etc. I want to be able to store my jack and tire tools as well as a tow strap and maybe some spare parts.
I want a clean look and good functionality. I have a cirlcular saw and a jig saw(sabre saw).
I am using the space near the roll bar for housing a 6x9 on each side. I wouldn't mind building a spot for a single 10 inch sub but that isn't necessary for now.
Any ideas or suggestions. I would like to see some custom (home made) work if anybody has any pics.
I have time to tinker until I get my license back next month.

scuba

Id say locking doors with hidden cubby holes...

desertcamper67

Any cabinet makers out there with ideas to use this dead space without my stuff banging around in the well behind the rear tire?

Maybe a box or something like that attached to the new wooden panel.

I used the factory panels for a template and am about to cut out the opening where the original door was. I want something kind of trick and durable.
Suggestions please...

desertcamper67

Any ideas about latch options like a lockable unit?

desertcamper67

c'mon. Any crafty carpenters with any tips or tricks that will look sweet and be tough. I am going to carpet the whole panel when I'm done.

AustinTaco

I know I have seen threads on this either on here or TTORA, but I will throw this out there. If you plan on storing stuff in there, make sure its secure. You can dent your fenders from the inside when your stored stuff rolls against the sheet metal. It won't take much, but a piece of carpet or folded cardboard should keep the dents away.

94sasyota

i did sheet metal sides and love them ill take pic this week pritty easy to do

desertcamper67

Here is what I've done so far with 1/2 inch MDF.
I am using all the factory plastic tab holes to secure it to the more stout spots back there.

I have a bit of rust and holes that let water in so I sprayed some expanding foam into the seam to see what comes thru to the outside and trimmed that off with a razor knife. It doesn't look good but is effective.

I will take that advice and probably line the inside with something. Not sure what yet. This is an old, beat up, totalled and brought back daily driver so looks isn't as important as function. I have some spray on undercoat that I will most likely use on this project. I think it may have a sound deadening effect which should improve my sound quality.

I don't know how to make full sized pictures show up in my post or have more than 3 pictures. Any input in that will help me show more work.

desertcamper67

I cut the rear of the panels at an angle so they blend into the rear corner. I am starting to think I should have made the door bigger since there is room between the supports.

aviator

Ok here's a few tips for you... I'd ditch the factory clips in favour of some Polished SS self tapping screws they will be slightly more secure and will reduce panel rattle more than the clips will. second get one of those speaker bucket things for behind the speaker [if you have'nt already] it will give you better sound, right now the entire fender space is a giant echo chamber. Third as noted previously line the fender well with a piece of carpet or better yet fab a box to fit the space and attach the panel to it as well as the body. Cover the panel with some 1/4" foam and either a heavy cloth [if you can't get auto interior type cloth you might try canvas or denim] or vinyl. This will further reduce road noise and give you a nice warm interior on cold desert/beach nights.
I would'nt go for faux fur though that would be too pimp for most folks...

desertcamper67

I will do something to line the inner wall of the body but as you can see this truck is far from prestine. (It was beautiful when I got it). Still is.

Anyway I made a back that the door will return to that is about 1/4 inch smaller than the opening and is spaced back another 3/8 inch from my new panel. I plan to line that 1/4 inch with a self sticking insulation from the depot.
I carpeted the panel and it looks nice, but I have to open up the doorway more now that the carpet is on and the door won't fit into the opening. It would be way easier to just cut the door smaller but I want the opening to be as big as possible so I'll remove all the staples from the carpet in that area and try to cut as neatly as I can and re-staple the carpet.

I am using bolts and nuts to secure the panels to the truck sides. Most of the original holes are going to have bolts through them but I had a second thought. I am opening up 3 of the original holes and adding 3 more holes in strong places and securing the panel with 6 eye bolts. I have always wanted some handy and strong attachment points for usuing tie downs back there.
That will be done tomorrow, at least one side.

desertcamper67

Haha. That's a good idea to line the walls with faux fur. Pimp my totalled Yota.

I think I will get the speaker thing you mentioned, probably at Fry's.

This picture shows where the eye bolts are going and what one of the anchor points looks like. There will be 10 bolts holding the panel to the truck including the 6 eye bolts with big washers. I will have to go through the speaker hole and cubby hole to hold a wrench on the backside nuts. It definately won't rattle.

Wardamneagle

If you install nutserts (threaded inserts) into the sheet metal then you won't have to worry about accessing the backside to tighten down your bolts. You will have to drill the holes in the sheet metal out a bit to install them, given the hole size in your MDF, but that would be the way to go in my opinion.

I've never seen this done in wood, only stainless or aluminum sheet, but it looks good.

Last suggestion, it looks like you have sprayed expanding foam insulation in those side cavities. That stuff is moisture-laden and will promote rust. Just FYI.

desertcamper67

Are those nutserts those clips that slide onto the sheet metal and are threaded on the back side? Like the small ones you used to see that came with car speakers? Or do they mount to the sheet metal differently?
I don't mind going in behind because I might actually change fasteners to recessed allen or torx heads to deter theft of my stuff. The door will eventually be lockable with a key so I don't want the panel to be too easily removed.

I didn't know that that expanding foam PROMOTED rust! Do you have any suggestions on some other gap filling sealant? How about on removing the expanding stuff? Maybe some chemical that will just eat it away. (Brake cleaner?)

aviator

MEK [methyl ethyl ketone] should remove it but be careful it will also melt almost any plastic it touches...
Nutserts... here's a [canadian] link to answer your questions... http://www.valleyhardware.ca/technic...ert_tech1.html

you might also try Rivnuts which are a similar product...
If you decide to try either nutserts or rivnuts it may be possible to rent the install tool from the supplier or else maybe talk to an A&P [aircraft mechanic] at the local airport he may be willing to trade the install job for a case of beer or something...
the "threaded" clips you asked about only work at the edge of a sheet of metal they might work for some of the screw points but are not very strong from a tie down point of view.

I tell ya man... step up to some wire wheel covers, chrome leg pipes, and a faux fur interior? You be rollin' phat man... P h a t...

desertcamper67

Do they make wire wheel covers with an open center for my manual hubs?

No work on the project today. Lots of ideas though.
Lighting, bright and low, 12v outlet, maybe mount one of my inverters but I think it will be too hot. And last but not least a switch that won't let the rear window roll down by the key (old keys and old Yotas are interchangable) and an up/down switch for use from the back.
Any other thoughts? Anyone?

Wardamneagle

I made my own installation tool. Look at the second article at this link:

http://www.jackmasteroilfilters.com....ster_info.html

Here's another supplier for the nutserts:

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet48.htm

Instead of expanding foam insulation, I would look at some of the 3M or Eastwoods products like this 3M rubberized undercoating:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...gl19MNFMCQP3bl

I have no idea how to remove the foam insulation but would think a scraper would be a good start. I don't think it's important to remove every last trace of it.

aviator

Wire covers off an 82 ford Granada/mercury Cougar had a wide centre cap that most likely would clear if cut out...

aviator

Great little tool eagle... I tried to copy it over for everyone but sadly the pics don't come with it. Great idea though I wish I'd thought of it... I borrowed the mech's rivnut tool to put mine in...lol

desertcamper67

I attached the panel using only the 6 big 3/8" eye bolts and it is strong. As you can see the eye bolts are only attached where there are at least 2 layers of sheet metal in the bed wall supports (except for the back bottom one).
So I decided to ditch the door landing as it closes the opening too much. Instead I am going to use the natural contour of the body and have a lip on the bottom/inside edge of the cubby land on it when it is tilted open. That lip hits the body at a good angle when open and lies flush against the inner wall when closed, with the exception of a little hump of sheet metal that is used to reinforce the bed where the body mount is. That is a pain but I will notch the lip in that spot. It is extra work to keep the cubby hole as big as possible but I think it will look good when I'm done.

I still don't know how to post bigger pictures than thumbnails or more than 3 per post.